Camel Hump Heads
04-08-2005, 07:51 AM
#51
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Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
Yea, but they sound about perferct for a 307. Mabey he could find a peanut roller cam and convert to roller while he is swapping heads.
04-09-2005, 12:16 AM
#52
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by blue_thunder91
Yea its a 307, many people dont believe it but there were quite a few of the third gens that came out with the 307 instead of the 305, and yes i do have my original engine in the car. Its too bad that the camel hump heads wont work cause they really are the best heads for any small block chevy.
Yea its a 307, many people dont believe it but there were quite a few of the third gens that came out with the 307 instead of the 305, and yes i do have my original engine in the car. Its too bad that the camel hump heads wont work cause they really are the best heads for any small block chevy.
Originally posted by blue_thunder91
Im looking for the webpage to show u that the 307 exists and do some research, with the right combination on those camel hump heads you can get in the low 12's. And a low 12 makes a very respectable street car.
Im looking for the webpage to show u that the 307 exists and do some research, with the right combination on those camel hump heads you can get in the low 12's. And a low 12 makes a very respectable street car.
Last edited by 89 Iroc Z; 04-09-2005 at 12:28 AM.
04-09-2005, 03:40 AM
#53
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Car: Silver 1980 Corvette (L82 w/TPI)
Engine: L82
Transmission: TH350
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
But unfortunately, you can't get away from the fact that the camel humps are a **** poor match to TPI and a mild cam.
But unfortunately, you can't get away from the fact that the camel humps are a **** poor match to TPI and a mild cam.
I can't believe so many people are still talking about those heads!
All these posts remind of one I saw where someone wanted to cram an LT5 in an F-body. Lots of urban legends from people looking for the holy grail of modifications. You'd be better off looking for the fountain of youth!
I've owned a '78 Vette, '85 IROC, '93 Z28, '94 Formula, and a '97 Vette... and in the last 13 years what I specifically remember about the infamous "camel humps" were they were-
A.) hard to find
B.) over-priced (look on Ebay and you'll see the sky high prices for those and SY1 manifolds!!!)
C.) not worth the time, sacrifice of accessories, or port matching woes that you avoid with a nice set of AFR, Dart, or Vortec heads.
To anyone who uses those things or any other power adder- Go for it- its your money.
If it really works for you- your car will hook up and you have the time slips you want for the amount of money you spent. That is ALL that matters.
I'd be happy to find a clean T-top 86-90 IROC in great condition without any "billy-bob" repairs using wire nuts, lobbed off portions of the harness, and NO bondo.
04-09-2005, 08:07 AM
#54
That's all good, but the question at hand regarded the "Camel hump", "double-hump", or old "fulie" heads. Timeslips and displacements notwithstanding, I'll try to address that one.
If I somehow came across a set of thes heads (would have to be by accident), I know what I would do. I'd clean them up, visually inspect them or dye-check them for cracks, and put them on ebaY to the highest bidder. There are three kinds of people who would buy them:
1. Those who want to build a '60s "classic" engine;
2. Those who want to rebuild a numbers-matching resto engine for their old ride;
3. Those who don't know any better.
The old "fulie" heads were decent in their day, and far superior to most of the heads that GM mass-produced immediately after the '70s rolled around, but they are inferior to later stock castings. The valve angles are the same old 23°, near edge restricting design. The ports pretty much suck, and castings cannot be relied upon to be consistent, so porting is a crap-shoot. The heads need to be machined, welded, and re-machined to provide mounting holes for anyhing more than a 1968 alternator setup. Most places won't even touch that kind of work, or will giggle at you for asking once they realize they are the old castings. If you find someone to do that work, you'll already have more $$$ inthem than a new pair of Vortec heads, and will still need to do porting, stud work, and valve enlargement. Then you might get flows close to the later castings.
Find another "sucker", er, "customer" on ebaY, then run like Hell.
If I somehow came across a set of thes heads (would have to be by accident), I know what I would do. I'd clean them up, visually inspect them or dye-check them for cracks, and put them on ebaY to the highest bidder. There are three kinds of people who would buy them:
1. Those who want to build a '60s "classic" engine;
2. Those who want to rebuild a numbers-matching resto engine for their old ride;
3. Those who don't know any better.
The old "fulie" heads were decent in their day, and far superior to most of the heads that GM mass-produced immediately after the '70s rolled around, but they are inferior to later stock castings. The valve angles are the same old 23°, near edge restricting design. The ports pretty much suck, and castings cannot be relied upon to be consistent, so porting is a crap-shoot. The heads need to be machined, welded, and re-machined to provide mounting holes for anyhing more than a 1968 alternator setup. Most places won't even touch that kind of work, or will giggle at you for asking once they realize they are the old castings. If you find someone to do that work, you'll already have more $$$ inthem than a new pair of Vortec heads, and will still need to do porting, stud work, and valve enlargement. Then you might get flows close to the later castings.
Find another "sucker", er, "customer" on ebaY, then run like Hell.
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