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Car won't run after intake removed

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Old May 30, 2005 | 08:58 PM
  #1  
camarocruzin's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
Car won't run after intake removed

In an attempt to fix an annoying oil leak i decided to replace my intake manifold gaskets today. After re-assembling the thing and trying to start it, it will not run. It will run with some gas, but it backfires quite a bit. We have tried adjusting the timing a million times but nothing, I have checked all the vacuum lines that i can think of. There was some confusion plugging the injector harness's back in on the drivers side, my dad wasn't sure how i labeled my injectors, but i think they're right, and switching them does not change or help the situation. The car cranks, and with some gas it will start, but will not idle, and even with the throttle in one place the rpms jump, and then start to fall, so i give it more throttle, and it revs, but then comes right back down. Ugh any ideas or questions pleace help/ask this sucks, and i got finals all week...what tiiming

Also i replaced the injector o-rings, there is no fuel, coolant, or oil leaks, how could i check for vacuum leaks on an engine that won't idle or hold a steady rpm?

Thanks in advance
Josh
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Old May 30, 2005 | 10:54 PM
  #2  
formula2fast's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 52
Likes: 1
From: Oswego, IL
Car: 87 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Engine: 355 SBC-Thats all I can say or they will break my legs.
Transmission: 5 Speed
Sounds like your distributor wasn't stabbed correctly. Take it out, set the motor to TDC on the compression stroke, and drop it in so the rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal on the cap. THat should get you into the ball park. THen unplug the EST terminal plug near your heater box and set the timing to 8* btdc. Should run then. Also, check all your plugs and make sure they are plugged in all the way.
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Old May 30, 2005 | 10:59 PM
  #3  
camarocruzin's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 90
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Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
Thanks i will try again tomorow, i've had the dizzy out like 5 times, i set the eng to tdc (finger in #1 to be sure its on top of compression stroke), mark the intake where the rotor is, and place cap and adjust the #1 terminal on the cap to be inline with where the rotor is, try to start, but same old crap, also how can i rotate the distributer without getting shocked while the engine is running??

Josh
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Old May 31, 2005 | 06:14 AM
  #4  
formula2fast's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 52
Likes: 1
From: Oswego, IL
Car: 87 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Engine: 355 SBC-Thats all I can say or they will break my legs.
Transmission: 5 Speed
If you are getting shocked, you probably have a bad set of spark plug wires. You may want to replace them.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 09:31 AM
  #5  
project_91RS's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 34
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From: Valdosta, GA
wow, i changed out my intake this weekend and have the exact same problem, the idle is erratic and eventually the engine dies, when i rev it there is no throttle response at all, it runs really hot, and makes a weird whining sound.

Lets hope we get it fixed soon. Good luck
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Old May 31, 2005 | 12:48 PM
  #6  
camarocruzin's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 90
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Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
replaced cap and rotor today, car runs a little better, can keep it running at lower rpms, but it takes about 3/4 throttle to keep it at 5-600 rpms...have to go to work now, please help us this is no fun at all, do you think the egr could have something to do with this? also what is the best way to check for vacuum leaks??


Josh
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Old May 31, 2005 | 01:20 PM
  #7  
bowtie350_428's Avatar
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 60
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From: S.A. Texas
Car: 84 Z28, 91 Corvette, 94 T/A, 02 Dodge Ram QuadCab 1500
Engine: 350 SBC
Transmission: 5spd
It's sound like the distributor was not install correctly. Even if you mark the distributor position on the intake, that won't guarantee you won't rotate the rotor position when stab the engine with the distributor.

Checking your timing would be a quick way to determine that.

Another way to check with the distributor installed is take off the distributor cap and look at the position of the rotor. Rotate the engine to till you are TDC firing on cylinder 1. Check the rotor position and it should close to where the distributor the No.1 electrode underneath the cap. Should be close…

Sometimes if that happens to me, I'll just rearrange my Sparkplug wires by moving them 1 over and redo my timing.

BTW, if you getting shocked when handling the distributor, then you need new cap and wires… or a big rubber glove.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 10:39 PM
  #8  
camarocruzin's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 90
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Car: '89 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-r4
thanks all, problem resolved, sprayed carb cleaner looking for leaks, found one at the base to runner mount on the drivers side, somehow i pinched the gasket, put a new one in after work and it seems all is well

Josh
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