I've rebuilt a couple motors but nothing like I'm trying to attempt now.. I'd like your input I'm trying to get parts list ready to get my 383 into the low 11's which would mean around 600hp atleast? this is what I was thinking of I'd like to stay with a hydrolic roller camshaft tho if possible.

383 10:5.1 compression, eagle crank, eagle rods, srp flattops with valve reliefs, AFR 210 heads, hydrolic roller in the area of 244/246? int/exh, compcams pro magnum rockors with rev kit, double roller timming chain, miniram intake, 2800rpm stall

is it time to step up to full forged internals?

any ideas? keep in mind it must stay fuel injected the cam can't be to big for a speed density system (it must idle around 950/1000 rpm) it must also be able to serve as a daily driver I'm obveusly not going to drive it daily but I say that for reliability.. don't say it can't be done either my buddies cobra is making 560RWHP on a stock buttom end.

 

Actually 500 H.P. should push a 3500 lb car into the mid 11s. If you go with the Eagle rotating assembly, and SRP pistons, you will have forged internals. As far as the camshaft, I would go with a solid roller, along with the MiniRam manifold. Get into DIY Prom and get the eprom optimized. It should idle with no problems at 750 to 800 RPM. I drive my solid roller 436 on the street all the time. It idles at 750 RPM.

Having the engine sorted out, you will have to concentrate on traction. Putting this animal into a car with no suspension upgrades, will not net 11 sec. ETs. Slicks, dragshocks,springs, LCAs, subframe connectors etc.

 

I'm trying to stay away from a solid roller so I don't have to play with valve lash and worry about lifters..

 

Then you can stay away from the MiniRam then. You can stick with the SuperRam you already own. I happen to have a solid roller with my S/R, but, it would be more suited to the MiniRam, or even a single 4 barrel style T/B intake. I was in the same position as you, as I already owned a S/R too.

 

I agree that A solid roller works well with the Mini-ram...but a decent sized hydralic roller will work well to. The thing is if you run a really big hydralic roller and get up in the 6500 rpm range you start to worry on valve float. Yes there are Hydra rev kits... If emissions and such are not a problem do a solid roller..from what I read the maintaince on them is not as bad as percieved.You'll need forged internals no doubt and with a cam like your talking about a 3500+ stall for it to really shine is needed. I want to do what your doing on your set-up....but I have pesky emissions

If your friends Cobra is a 03-04 it has a forged bottom end from the factory. Not sure about the internals of 98+ cobra's.

 

brutalform..how well does the solid roller work with you S/R? And its on a 436?!!...Any times/#'s?? My big thing is emissions and its tough with the mini-ram...been looking around for good examples of a S/R that can pass emissions and run solid 11's. I live in MD...

 

My car will NOT pass emissions. Here in Pa. we can get an "exempt" sticker if our car is driven less than 5000 miles in a year. I have no cats, CCP, EGR, AIR, etc. The cam is not really a big deal, as it is a tight lash roller, and I check the valves periodically, but only had to do the lash once in a year. The engine made 490 h.p. and 570 lb ft on an engine dyno, with EFI and a crappy ASM prom. It was pig rich, and would not rev beyond 5000 RPM. Too bad I was not into DIY Prom 2 years ago when it was built and dynoed.

 

now I know I don't absoutely NEED a solid roller for a miniram there's plenty of hydrolic setups that will peak around 7k I don't need to FULLY wined out the motor to 8000-8500

I'm looking for a 3000-7500rpm powerband with it peaking around 550-600hp

 

[B]

That seems to be alot of RPM for a hydraulic roller though. IMHO, its a bit for a solid as well.

 

Umm, isnt Eagle a rather crappy brand. I've heard some bad stuff about their products. Just look at the price of their cranks. They are like 1/3 the price of Lunati or other manufactuers.

 

well, like I said this is the first time I'm trying a build to get to theese kinds of numbers.. can I get there with a smaller head and less rpm?

 

Eagle, like any other company, runs into quality control problems from time to time. Most of the problems seem to revolve around poor finial finishing. My local engine builder (the same guy that built brutal's motor) likes scat over eagle due to what he says is a better final finish. Scat is having thrust issues right now so he went back to eagle for his average build. He still uses billet cranks for his big buck customers.

 

Low 11's is a tall order to fill on any 383 cube efi motor. I have not been able to get close to that number without spray. More cubes will make it much easier. My latest project is a fi 409. I hope to get it in the mid to high 11's. It will only see 5500 rpm and is built rather small though.

 

Be careful with 7k and hydraulic lifters. The hydraulics can only handle 135 lbs or so spring pressure on the seat. Much more than that and the lifter will collapse.

 

Hi,

Had my 383 Dynoed a month back at 502 with Hyd Rollers
but with titanium retainers and AFR Hyd rev kit.

Saw a couple pulls to 7000 and sorta made me cringe
With this combo was not laying down and still pulling when
pulled back.

Am using Mini-Ram with this setup but will Not be running it up this high
MSD chip set at 6800/Shift lite set at 6500
Truck Roller Blk
Scat bottom
Comp 234-242 .585-112-Howard 1.5 and probably go to 1.6s.
10.8 Comp-AFR 195s
I'd go with hassle free Hyds if setup rite.

Later
jaykar

 

I wouldn't even worry about a full forged bottom end if I was shotting for around 500hp. A decent Scat cast steel crank is cheap and will take alot of abuse, match that with some Scat 4340 i beams..which are lighter than the eagle h beams...and some Mahle or SRP pistons and you would have a strong set of internals. Remember tho, forged parts don't make power. For a cam, I would def go for a custom cam, and personally i would stick with a hydraulic roller for easy maintenance purposes. Those AFR 210's are good, go ahead and get the competition port if you can afford it..or have the race ready's hand massaged alittle. I would bump the static compression ratio up to about 11.8-12:1...yes that can run on pump gas. With all of the appropriate bolt ons you shouldn't have a problem knocking on 500Hp's door..especially matched with the mini-ram.

 

Sorry, Im not trying to hijack this post, but I have one question reguarding the MiniRam. Will a car equipped with it loose some bottom end, and allow "hooking" the car easier, than, lets say, a SuperRam?

 

[B]

Its just that level had mentioned that brand name in his post. I would like to correct myself here, by saying I was wrong about stating you would have forged internals if he went with the Eagle equipment. Eagle does have cast steel cranks as well as forged. BTW, I have the Eagle forged crank, and H-beam rods, in my engine, and I have had no problems whatsoever.

Floorguy has ran as fast as 10.90s with his old 383 set up, and get this, WITH CAST STUFF!