I just finished installing the Superram and all is well except an intermitent idle problem that comes and goes. When it does happen it almost stalls and then levels itself out to a normal idle. I don't believe it's a vacuum leak because it doesn't happen all the time. I took special care to make sure everything was sealed. Any suggestions on what could be causing this? No trouble codes BTW.

 

Check your TPS voltage. Check for vacuum leaks, you may think you sealed it good but the superram is a PITA.( trust me I know) You may need to reset minimum air also.

 

TPS voltage is ok. I'll spray it with a water bottle later on while it's running to see if there's any vacuum leaks. When you put the lid on was it warped a little bit? Before I put on the S/R the lid was straight. I hear that's normal for it to warp just a little.

 

Comes and goes? Like once per drive? Or repeatedly while at idle? How frequently? Or does it only happen when coming to a stop (minimum air thing)?

Something like that would lead me to look at the O2 sensor, and the INT and BLM going low (incorrectly), then resetting. But, you say no codes. Do you have a scan tool to read Integrator or block learn? Maybe the O2 sensor is cooling down or something.

Just today I was bit by a cracked spark plug on the outside porcelian (low miles on it too, but recently worked on). What a pain to find that one. I'm so relieved to have solved it though... wasted so much time.

Stupid question, but, it's not the A/C cycling is it? Is there some other high amp load happening on the alternator?

 

It's not the AC because it's off. It happens mostly when driving around in traffic when the engine is nice and hot. It happens mostly when I come to a stop but it never stalls out. I do have a scan tool. I'll check it later on.

 

I'm having the same problem with the stock runners or with the SLP's installed

 

Kind of sounds like the minimum air setting needs re-adjusting (or set a little higher). It basically means - open the throttle blades a little more (with the idle screw - may have to remove the cover), readjust the TPS to .54V, and reset the ECU. The exact procedure is on here a billion times. I'd give that a try.

 

My TPS can't be adjusted. The mounting holes are not like the older ones where you can slide it back and forth. It's just bolt on and go.

 

oh, sorry, you have a SD system. It's not adjustable and doesn't need it unless it's below about .5 or above .8V. Should be OK to just adjust the screw and reset the ECU. You can do the whole procedure if you want, where you force the IAC shut, with a paperclip in the ALDL, or just try to increment the screw 1 turn for now, and see if it's better.

 

I'll try it and see what happens, thanks.

 

Fixed my problem when I decided to replace the TPS even tho it checked out ok.It slowly climbed up to 4 volts as I cracked the blades wide open.When I took it out for a test drive the problem was gone