Ok so first off i have had a long line of ignition issues over time. Previous post https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=304200 So had the car runnin good for a couple days. Then while it sat parked a couple days suddenly crank no start condition-culprit ignition module again. Replaced module car ran like a champ was feeling real good for 2 or 3 days then it started running like crap, sounded like it was missing with a real rough idle. Took it to a budies house shut it off went to start it to show him how it was running, then i had no crank. So after getting it to crank periodically by charging or jumping it i tested battery at autozone concluding the battery was good. Replaced starter, solenoid, a couple questionable fusable linkes to the starter. Still same condition. I had wobbly column anyway so we decided to tackle it and poke around a little. Tore column down tightened torx bolts wobbly column fixed, but we found the vats wires coming from the column where crimped and tape wadded, undid all the tape wires came apart. Solved the no crank issue whoo hoo. Well drove the car a day and a half runnin strong again, shut her down at a friends fired it back up runnin like crap again baddly misfireing, almost exact same symptom as when the last computer went out however no ses light no codes, and timing seems to advance from base. One thing i did notice was that a couple times i shut it off and restarted it at normal temp the brake light would come on and the temp would peg although the car wasnt hot??? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated i have never been closer to ditching my pride and joy.

 

anyone?

 

Ok so i think i may have solved the problem hopefully. On the intake manifold there is an empty bolt hole i have seen others ask about it im not sure what its actually for, but i attached an extra ground wire to it directly to the battery and wha la shes runnin like a champ again. Hopefully this will be the end of the saga.

 

That extra bolt hole on the intake manifold was originally for a support bracket for the alternator.

 

Well she started runnin like crap again, im starting to think maybe an injector is getting stuck open, im not sure ill post more info as i go through it.

 

If running a new ground wire fixed it temporarily, then I'd attack the grounds on the back of both heads as well as the main ones. Take the bolts out, clean up the wiring connectors and contact points and bolts, and re-assemble.

Sounds like a ground problem if that little wire fixed it for a couple of days.

Just my two cents worth......

 

Well i thought the same thing but nothing changed and it started runnin like crap again with the extra ground still connected. I also noticed the oil smells like gas.

 

Gas in the oil is often a sign of running VERY rich. Have you got any datalogs? I wonder if the CTS is bad/flaking out...

 

How about leaking injectors?

 

Could be either...... (or a way off tune).......

 

Well its bone stock timing is set at 6 degrees and its a stock prom. I recently changed 4 injectors, but replaced them with used ones due to funds. All 4 tested at at least 16.5 ohms. Any way to test and see if ones leaking?

 

Do all 8 plugs look the same? That can often indicate where (which cylinder) the problem lies as well.

 

I'd recommend always putting in new injectors, and most of the time it's best to change them all together. You can also send your injectors to cruzinperformance to have them cleaned and matched. ($100 for 8).

There a couple tests for leaking injectors. The simplest is to hook up a fuel pressure guage, start the car, shut it off, and observe the pressure reading over time. It should hold pressure for 30+ minutes. This isn't the most accurate tests because things such as AFPRs and different fuel pumps affect the pressure-to-time curve.

The recommended test is to pull your plenum and runners, pressurize the system, then pull the fuel rails (leaving the injectors attached). Wipe the end of the injectors and let them sit. Check the injector tips again 10 or 20 minutes later. If they're wet, you've got leaking injectors.

If you're brave, you can pressurize the system while holdling the fuel rail up. ***DISARM YOUR IGNITION SYSTEM IF YOU DO THIS (and be sure to make sure no ignition wires are in an arc-able position)!!!******. If you see fuel leaking from an injector, you need to replace it.

M

 

Since you said you replaced 4 of the injectors with used ones, were they the (#19, #22, #24 etc) same type as the ones that they replaced? also, just because the OHM's are good doesn't mean that they won't leak. Have you put a pressure guage on the fuel rail and checked it?

 

Well i tore the tpi down last night, first i found a cracked hose coming from the fpr. So i replaced it and put it back together still ran like a$$, so i tore it down to the injectors pulled the injectors out of the manifold, with them still on the rail i pressurized the system and didnt find any fuel coming from the injectors. However one of the injectors was wet when i pulled it from the manifold. Also the hose to the fpr smelled a little bit like fuel. So i hooked a vacume pump to it and gave it a little pressure to see if it was leaking, it seemed fine. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge i guess thats my next step. And the injectors where 22lb stock injectors. I have 4 more i might swap um around and see what happens.

 

UPDATE: Ok so i found another bad injector, it was one i didnt replace it was at 6 ohms. So shes's runnin good again, for now

 

Great! We'll keep our fingers crossed for you.....