Installing a LT1 Cam
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Boston, MA
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt w/3.08's (dying)
Installing a LT1 Cam
A friend is willing to sell me a factory LT1 cam (he got the LT4 Hot Cam instead). My question is, what are the steps inorder to replace a cam? Would i also have to change the springs and heads, or could i just plug in play?
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 140
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 85 T/A & 98 T/A
Engine: 305 tpi/ 5.7 LS1
Transmission: 700 r4/ T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.23/ 3.42
plug and play. the only difference in this swap is you need to pull the dowel pin out of the lt1 cam. Should be 10-15 horse power. Have fun. This is going to be messy my instructions and doing the swap.
You need the pull balancer, water pump, valve pan covers, and intake. the radiator too. the distributor.
Take the timing cover off.
loosen the rockers, pull the lifters and pushrods out.
When you have all of this out change the cam.
Plan on an entire weekend, buy all NEW gaskets.
Also plan on fixing lots of other stuff while your at it.
Also think more mods.
advance the timing, remove air, port plenum and base. go to a roller valve train, these are all good to do when you go that far.
Since your asking about swapping out a cam, this leaves room for me to think you haven't done much wrenching on the car. Torque all of the bolts into specs, and if you do not have a torque wrench buy, rent, or borrow one because if you don't. You probably shouldn't do the swap.
On my 85 I have been having problems with old wires, egr, seals, vacuum lines, don't skimp on any of this stuff while its apart, the better you can make your car run without the cam, the more the cam will help.
Keep me posted I'll walk you through it since not many people on this board like helping others, other than telling them to do a search. You should be fine with your springs.
Also mic the cam don't even bother if its worn.
Don't be discuraged in the end its worth every bit of it to have a nice running car that will pull on others.
Greg
You need the pull balancer, water pump, valve pan covers, and intake. the radiator too. the distributor.
Take the timing cover off.
loosen the rockers, pull the lifters and pushrods out.
When you have all of this out change the cam.
Plan on an entire weekend, buy all NEW gaskets.
Also plan on fixing lots of other stuff while your at it.
Also think more mods.
advance the timing, remove air, port plenum and base. go to a roller valve train, these are all good to do when you go that far.
Since your asking about swapping out a cam, this leaves room for me to think you haven't done much wrenching on the car. Torque all of the bolts into specs, and if you do not have a torque wrench buy, rent, or borrow one because if you don't. You probably shouldn't do the swap.
On my 85 I have been having problems with old wires, egr, seals, vacuum lines, don't skimp on any of this stuff while its apart, the better you can make your car run without the cam, the more the cam will help.
Keep me posted I'll walk you through it since not many people on this board like helping others, other than telling them to do a search. You should be fine with your springs.
Also mic the cam don't even bother if its worn.
Don't be discuraged in the end its worth every bit of it to have a nice running car that will pull on others.
Greg
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Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 186
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From: Boston, MA
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt w/3.08's (dying)
Hey thanks Greg. Btw, i have done some wrenching on the car, i've installed headers and did a 4th gen rearend swap aswell. And i know what you mean about things needing replacement. The car was in some messed up shape when i got it, but i restoring back slowly but surely. Just wanted advide and a guide on how to do the cam, the correct steps. Just don't wanna mess anything up. Alright once i get the cam (next week) i'll post up again to find out what i need.
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 85 T/A & 98 T/A
Engine: 305 tpi/ 5.7 LS1
Transmission: 700 r4/ T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.23/ 3.42
Cool Ilike the way you sound, and by all means no offense didn't know where you were coming from mechanics wise. Now I do and understand. My car was in good shape no rust, but a ton of small things to replace and keep you very busy. Do the swap it will cost you $50 dollars if you have the cam. That includes some room for a few extra parts to. Keep the updates coming.
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