sting

iTrader: (1)

This all started because I keep getting code 33. When I start the car the idle sits around 1000rpm, then after about 20 seconds it drops down to about 850 (in park). After about two minutes of warming up everything will seem to kick up a notch and the idle will surge back up to 1200 (I guess the o2 sensor kicking in?). Now, if I let the car warm up and hit 1200 in park, and drive it, normally no codes will hit. If I don't let it warm up that 2 minutes, and drive it, about less than a minute down the road she'll enter that limp mode and throw code 33, then I have to pull over and turn it off and wait about 3 minutes, turn the car on, no code, runs fine to where I'm going. When I leave work, about 9 hours of the car sitting, I don't let it warm up that 2 minutes, but the code won't hit. I first did what any sane person would do, check the relays, at first I was abit confused because there was a relay box in the fuel pump spot that said mass air flow power (or something of that nature). So I figured either someone used the wrong relay, or someone unbolted both relays for a reason and put them back on backwards. Further looking at a wiring diagram the relays are all in the right spots. I figured i'd replace the burn-off, if that didn't do it, the power. The burn-off relay Autozone gave me was abit bigger than the one that was in there, and it wasn't black, it's offwhite. That didn't fix the problem. So I did the power relay, except they gave me a smaller black one this time. From searching posts everyone says they're the same relay, on the two boxes they have me the part numbers are different. Does this seem right? I also hear two clicking noises after I turn the car off, I'm not sure if it did it before or not. Will a maf relay in the fuel pump relay spot cause problems? Should I get new MAF relays?

Vader

The color and physical configuration of the relays won't matter. As long as they are electrically the same, there should be no problems. The replacement realys can be different, sinc ethe burn off and power relays serve different functions.



The MAF power relay needs to be a SPDT, while the burn off relay only needs to be a SPST. It can use the same SPDT relay as the MAF power, but doesn't need the NC contacts. You could use a MAF power relay in both positions, but A-Z A SPDT relay is used for the fuel pump only so that the G terminal on the ALDL can be used to power the pump. It doesn't need this to operate, but that's the factory configuration. Therefore, the SPDT relay can be used in all positions, but doesn't need to be. That may explain why you have different part numbers.

The clicking you hear after shut down should be the fuel pump relay dropping after distributor stops moving and the burnoff relay energizing to execute the MAF burn off process.

As for the root problem, check the TPS voltage at idle. I'm guessing it is high.

sting

iTrader: (1)

ok, i put the new tps in. first adjusted the idle air, 400rpm in drive engine warm iac disconnected timing wire disconnected.
plugged it all back in idle was about 600drive 1,000-1,100 in park. just where i wanted it. adjusted TPS. .54 idle 4.11 WOT. I also cleaned the throttle body, tried taking off the IAC to clean it but the last hex screw broke off on me, i thought i read this happening to people, but after searching i can't find any posts on what they did to get the screw out. Started her up this morning, engine cold. Throws code 33 and the car runs like junk again until i turn it off and wait two minutes. Another thing i noticed, isn't the idle supposed to be higher when the car's warming up? Warming it will STILL float down to 800 in park and 400-500 in drive. until i wait that 2 minutes and itll all kick up a notch which i think is the o2 sensor kicking in. I have no idea what could be the problem? Put new relay's in too. I just put a MAF from my other car in that's worked for over a year, but have a feeling it won't fix the problem. anyone PLEASE HELP. everything is mostly stock except TB bypass and 180 stat

sting

iTrader: (1)

Tried the other MAF, still code 33. anyone??

85DropTopTA

when you dissconnected the IAC did you first jumper the A and B pins on the ALDL connector. when you set idle speed the IAC needs to be fully extended. Make sure to remove the jumper before starting your car or you will need a new ECM. then you adjust your throttle plates to run at about 550-600 rpm. and then you set your TPS sensor for .56 volts. now plug the IAC back in and remove the ground on the battery for 10 sec to reset the computer. when you start the car back dont let it idle to long before you take it for a drive and make a few full passes in seconed gear so the car can go through a relearn. when you come back the car should idle fine.

sting

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, i had jumped it first. The idle after the car is warm is fine, it's where i set it when setting the idle screw. 1100 park 600-750 drive. but when it's cold it's below that, and that's the only time i'm having this code 33 problem. however, i noticed one of the conditions to throw a 33 is below 2,000 rpm, so I tried pushing her over that where i would usually get 33 if i sped up normally, and she didnt throw a code. i don't really understand this problem. i'm going to try cleaning the iac and double check wiring connections. from what i've been told the CTS below the throttle body helps determine warming up rpm, i put a new sensor in a few weeks ago, any ways to tell if the sensor is possibly bad? i don't know what else it could be.

85DropTopTA

I suppose if you had a Scantool you could check the CTS to make sure its reading right. usually when they die they read -44 degrees. but that will set a code and your cooling fans would be on constantly. also you mentioned earlier you set your TPS sensor to .54 volts. I'm pretty sure its supposed to be .56. I dont know about your car but mine is real picky on that. Code 33 sets when your MAF sensor detects more than 45 gm/s at less than 2000 rpm and and less than 1/4 throttle. and remember everytime you turn that air adjustment screw you need to readjust your TPS sensor.

DON 88T/A

I had a random code 33 awhile back...replaced relays/maf looked good on scan tool..one day I wiggled the connector to the maf and it threw the code...I replaced that connector and so far no code 33...car has been stalling though after reaches a certain temp when I'm idling at a light...still trying to figure that one out...I wonder if a CTS would cause that too.
Anyway take a look at the actual connector first ...you can get one cheap...it might just have a bad pin in it that sometimes comes loose.

87zjeff

iTrader: (4)

happen to have a part number for that connector? i noticed one of mine had a bunch of wire showing. that can't be good.

85DropTopTA

i got one from napa. i just asked for a 5 wire MAF connector. it was 12.99