Car wont start, putting 12V to connector to prime?
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From: Pflugerville, TX USA
Car: 1999 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1 V8
Transmission: T-56 6spd
Car wont start, putting 12V to connector to prime?
My car is not starting, I have no fuel pressure. I fear the worst (fuel pump) but I am wanting to check everything else before dropping the tank on my '90 GTA. I do not hear the pump priming like normal when the key is turned on. I have read I can put 12V to the connector lead near my relays. How exactly do I do this? Can I just take a wire from the positive side of my batter and plug it in to the female spade connector? Also, I have 3 relays, 2 have grey connectors, 1 has a black connector. All 3 have the same type relays and part#'s connected to them. I am guessing the 2 grey ones are for my fans and the black one is for the fuel pump. I tried replacing the relay already, no luck. My car was running just fine yesterday. I filled up with gas on my way home from work. Woke up this morning and put some new fog light bulbs in, went to start the car, just turns over and over. The car has always started right up, runs super strong and smooth. Has never given any warning of the fuel pump going out. I honestly have a hard time believing the pump just up and died but I guess its possible. I am open to any and all ideas.
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,015
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Cant tell u the colors off the top of my head.
Quickest way without a diagram handy?
Make yourself a jump with a couple of spade connectors out of a decent sized wire.
Look at the connectors and hook the 2 largest wires together to effectively jumper the connection and bypass the relay.
2 fans will eliminate those, the remaing is your fuel pump :-)
If it works when jumped, the relay is prolly bad. But first make sure you have B+ at the connector on the power side and ign on side and also that you ahve functional grounds.
9 out of 10 it will be a relaay or puked fuel pump
later
Jeremy
Quickest way without a diagram handy?
Make yourself a jump with a couple of spade connectors out of a decent sized wire.
Look at the connectors and hook the 2 largest wires together to effectively jumper the connection and bypass the relay.
2 fans will eliminate those, the remaing is your fuel pump :-)
If it works when jumped, the relay is prolly bad. But first make sure you have B+ at the connector on the power side and ign on side and also that you ahve functional grounds.
9 out of 10 it will be a relaay or puked fuel pump
later
Jeremy
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 646
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From: P'cola
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4 that will magically turn into a 6 speed one day.
Or you could always go the backyard mechanic route. You could always just listen for the relay to click when you turn the ign on. If not, bad relay. Double check to see you have power going in and out. If you have power going to the pump, put a piece of hose or a funnel in the filler cap and listen for the pump priming. If you hear nothing then you could have someone try to start the car while you are under it and bang on the take while they are cranking. If it starts....98% of the time it points to a bad pump. If that is the case, don't worry too much. Dropping the tank honestly isn't THAT hard. I did it in my driveway with a limited supply of knowledge and basic hand tools in a few hours time. Good luck
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Pflugerville, TX USA
Car: 1999 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1 V8
Transmission: T-56 6spd
I put 12V to the lead and a test light to the C connector of the relay, got power. With the relay plugged in still no pump action. I put a new relay on, no luck. I am going to to jack the car up this week and put a test light to the body connector and make sure I am getting power to the pump. If I am then it's the pump. This will be my 4th time doing a pump on a 3rd Gen. It is not fun but air tools make it alot easier. The only thing that sucks really bad is that the tank is full :0( I will post anymore findings on here.
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Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Stoughton
Car: one with wheels
Engine: one with pistons
Transmission: one with gears
When I had RD come check mine, he just put 12v to the G terminal of the ALDL to directly power the pump bypassing everything.
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
did you check the in-line fuse for the fuel pump? don't know for sure, but i believe your year has one. can't remember which pin on that connector (for the relay), but should be a green/white wire which is the one coming from your ecm to run the pump under normal conditions. that is also the wire that feeds that 2-second prime cycle. if you take a test light or voltmeter to that pin, are you getting a light (or volts) for the 2 second cycle?
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