Hey guys. I've got a '91 Camaro Z28 with a stock 350 Tuned Port Injected motor with a stock ignition system. Everything related to the ignition system has been replaced, except the ignition coil. First I'd like to say the parts that have been replaced, two years ago the fuel presssure regulator, fuel injectors and oxygen sensor were replaced due to erratic idling. Four months ago, I took my car to a shop due to an extended cranking issue I had for some time. They replaced the ignition module and the fuel pressure regulator.Yesterday afternoon I wanted to start the car up and all I got was just cranking but no spark. I looked up my owner's manual for hard starting help and it said to give it 1/3 throttle pressure to see if it started and nothing. I gave it full throttle and cranked it to see if it would start and get rid of the excess gas in line and nothing. I remember sometime ago someone had a similar problem on this forum and replaced the coil and it worked. So today I went off and purchased an ignition coil and it wasn't the problem- it still wouldn't start. I also had my first lesson on how to test my coil for resistance too, I should have done that first. I checked to make sure all connections were made, except for the igniton which I check tomorrow. So my question is, if they replaced the module and fuel pressure regulator, what could be cause of this mysterious no spark condition? I would really appreciate any feedback from any of you. Thanks

 

Have you verified the no spark? Do you get injector pulse? (You can pick up a noid light to test for like 10 bucks at the parts store)

Do you have fuel pressure? Does the pump prime for a couple seconds when you turn the ignition on?

 

Check for voltage at the coil on the pink black wire with the ignition on.

 

Yes the fuel pumps primes from 2 - 4 seconds when I turn the ignition on and I also smell gas going to the injectors when I crank it each time. I will pick up a noid light? at my parts store. Does that test the fuel injectors only? What is the actual name of this tool?

 

Ok, on the multimeter, you want me to go to the volts function rather than ohms, correct? how much voltage should there be registering on the coil? Is the wire itself is a pink/black striped wire or two different color wires that are spliced at the gray colored or black colored connector where it connects to the ignition coil?

 

Ok, guys the car is running. I replaced the whole distributor that included the pickup coil and ignition module. Now the problem I have is that the timing is at 9 degrees BTDC. Everytime, I turn on the car, there's an obvious miss and noticeable surging from 1000 to 1800 rpm but smooths out after 2 minutes. When I put the car in drive, the car dies, so I have to put in park and start it up again, the car surges erractically and smooths out. I also have a terrible coming from exhaust kind of like raw gas. Why is it that when I put it in gear it dies out? All the spark plug wires have been put in the corresponding posts on the distributor cap #1 wire with #1 on the distributor cap, etc. I put a code reader on there all I get is a code 12- no other codes. The car ran fine before with no problems prior to the no spark condition. What components are responsible for making the car run smoothly? What should I be checking now? How do I set the timing? Does going counter clock wise advance or retard timing? Please let me know. Thank you.

 

when is the last time you pulled the plugs and checked them. If you were not getting spark and the injectors were pulseing then your plugs are most likely fowled out.

Replace the plugs. Pull them all out of the block. use a little oil can and put a small squirt in each hole. disconnect the wires on the distribitor and turn the motor over several times.

this will blow the oil back out and re-coat your cyl-walls. gas will strip them of lubrication.

CHANGE THE OIL!!! let the cyl air dry overnight and the next day turn it over a few more times.

Put in the NEW plugs and if done properly you sould be AG

 

Hey Jamon 8, just changed the oil but need to replace the spark plug wires and spark plugs. By the way the car starts up well, but the thing I have is that it still surges at idle but seems to do well after warm up. Oh I forgot to mention that I took the car for a cruise and parked for short time like 1 minute or so and started it up and surged again. I put in gear right away and it stalled. So I put in park and restarted it and put it in gear and seemed like it wanted to stall but didn't. What do you think is wrong? I also did a search on the forums about surging and found out it could be the IAC valve that could be the cause or egr issues, but I replaced the egr and egr solenoid a year and a half ago. I'll check the IAC ohm resistance . I'll keep you guys updated on the progression of the car. Well, thanks for all of you who responded to my post, you've all been helpful.

 

Just went through a similar scinerio. Definately pull and replace the plugs. The IAC, not a bad idea, I found on min the pintle was excessivley extended and fouled up, even after only a month of problems. Also if it's been backfiring (intake) you may have done some damage to the MAF/MAP sensor, or at least got it dirty anyway.