This has been going on forever it seems. My car runs great but sometimes the car stalls. It usually happens when im at a stop. It'll start idling at 500rpms and wont respond to me pushing the gas pedal to try and keep it running. It will die if i give it gas and just keep running at 500 rpms if i dont do anything. I dont have any idea whats wrong with it. The tps is set at .54v and climbs progressively to 4.35v WOT. The MAF runs at .48v at idle on the center green wire. 5.03v on the same wire with the key on/ engine off. Ive swapped the fan relays for the maf power and burn off relay but that hasnt helped. Ive tapped on the maf with no change. When i unplug it, it runs ok with the ses light on but even richer than usual. I know thats bypassing the maf. Ive cleaned the connectors and wiggled them with no change. It seems to do it more often when its warmed up but still does it when its cold. It also seems to do it more when its restarted after shuting it off for a little bit.

Theres no vacuum leaks that ive found. It holds 18inHG at idle. Fuel pressure is 36/44 and never drops when the car acts up. All the intake ducting is good. It has brand new 24lb ford motorsport injectors, new ecu, new maf, new cap, rotor, msd coil, ignition module, plugs and wires, CTS, and MAT sensor. Theres not much left that is factory on it. Also it has no smog stuff or EGR.

This is probably completely separate but it runs rich all the time. It runs extremely rich with the charcoal canister hooked up. Like to the point where i get liquid gas in the crankcase. It usually runs a lot better when i change the oil and get the gas out. What could make it run so rich? It did this with stock 22lb injectors and i bought new ones cause one of the old injectors ohm reading was off.

Also please dont tell me to search because ive probably looked at every code 33 and 34 post ever put on this board. I know it can be anything from the tps voltage to intake leaks to oil pressure switches and fuel pumps. I got all the service manual code 33 and 34 pages saved. Thanks Trickster. D@mn GM for making their trouble codes so general.

I want to get it running right again so i can get started on my twin turbo setup. I really want to get it fixed so i dont have to sit at stop lights with people behind me honking for me to get my junk car running and get out of their way. People are starting to think i have a carb. on my car. Nothings more embarassing than a mustang owner telling you to pump the gas while your sitting there cranking your car at a red light. Someone please help me. Let me know if you need any more info on my car. Thanks in advance.
Scott

 

I had a stalling motor that ran rich and was giving me a code 34 also. It turned out to be a loose wire coming off of the + side of the battery that gose into the harrnes. You could also have some leaky injectors. Do a fuel pressure check to see if it's holding pressure. Adam :-)

 

The injectors are almost new, 2k miles on them maybe. It holds fuel pressure fine. It died again today. I started it up and drove to a friends house, shut it off, left from there and went home, started it back and i didnt get 20 ft before it died on me and would start back and die again until i unhooked the maf sensor. Anyone have any idea what it is? I'll check all the connectors in a minute. Which wire was loose on the positive side of the battery? It almost seems like a hot start problem. Is it possible for it to be the ignition module? I think theres a 50/50 chance i didnt put that dielectric grease on it. Maybe when it gets hot it shuts off. I dont know. I need help.

This sucks because i dont want to buy a maf, or convert it to SD or stick a carb on it. I wouldnt mind sticking an LT1 or LS1 in it but theres no chance that id have that kind of money. I just want it to run like it should since i dont think the maf itself is bad. I wish i had a spare to try it out.

 

Wiggled wires, cleaned corrosion off inside of the distributor cap, put dielectric grease under ignition module and it still does the same thing. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Find a good friend with a known good MAF. It seems like it's obviously the MAF. Sure, it could be something else, but it's likely a bad new MAF.

Borrow that same friend's ECU while you're at it.

 

I wish i knew somebody that had a maf and computer i could swap. Its funny cause there both new. I know that doesnt matter but im tired of replacing stuff.

 

Some one swaped the battry cables on mine. But it was right there on the +side of the battery. Then it went down to the main car harnnes. Adam :-)