Knock Sensor ID
Knock Sensor ID
The question I have is... how do I tell if I have a 305 or 350 knock sensor? Are there any numbers on them that will distinguish them between 5.0 and 5.7? I have a 350 block and heads with 305 computer and 305 (19#) injectors and I was gonna check the knock sensor to see what it is?
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 683
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From: Florida
Car: '87 Trans-Am
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 or 3.73..figuring it out still
Honestly, if you can get in there to check numbers, I would just get the 350 one and put it in to be certain. I dont think they are more than 20 bucks and a little of your time. I also did a quick check through my notes and what not that had all my GM part numbered lists for my swap and I didnt see any specific numbers for knock sensor...just ECM, ESC, fuel injectors and rails, etc. Just out of curiosity, is it running ok now? Or did you just want to be sure?
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,214
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
I leave them unhooked anyway.... they just kill et and mph..
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
They work great.
If u actually take the time to tune the car and get it dialed in so it doesnt knock in the first place.
I wouldnt recommend leaving one unplugged or inoperative either.
Unless u really know what u are doing and do plug cuts under all conditions to make sure its actually not seeing knock/detonation.
U will have to get the numbers off the sensor itself to determine which it is.
later
Jeremy
If u actually take the time to tune the car and get it dialed in so it doesnt knock in the first place.
I wouldnt recommend leaving one unplugged or inoperative either.
Unless u really know what u are doing and do plug cuts under all conditions to make sure its actually not seeing knock/detonation.
U will have to get the numbers off the sensor itself to determine which it is.
later
Jeremy
Actually, the car runs pretty good now. I have replaced a lot of the sensors and did a little tuning because for a while it was giving me trouble. I just figured that because 350's are balanced different then it would create more knock and maybe my timing was retarted a lot more than it should be. Maybe I'm just being paranoid, lol. Well, I did some searching and they list a different part number for the 5.7 Knocks and a different part number for the 5.0 knocks, but I don't think they are identifiable.
Actually, the car runs pretty good now. I have replaced a lot of the sensors and did a little tuning because for a while it was giving me trouble. I just figured that because 350's are balanced different then it would create more knock and maybe my timing was retarted a lot more than it should be. Maybe I'm just being paranoid, lol. Well, I did some searching and they list a different part number for the 5.7 Knocks and a different part number for the 5.0 knocks, but I don't think they are identifiable.
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,405
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: Magnacharged LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 4:11's
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Yeah they do...when you don't know how to tune it
Only reason to bypass the knock sensor is when you are fighting a false knock due to excessive engine "noise".
Originally Posted by Tony Walch
I leave them unhooked anyway.... they just kill et and mph..
Only reason to bypass the knock sensor is when you are fighting a false knock due to excessive engine "noise".
Last edited by 406TPI; Mar 22, 2006 at 05:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 683
Likes: 2
From: Florida
Car: '87 Trans-Am
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 or 3.73..figuring it out still
I have timing gears instead of a chain and if they werent the "quiet" type, I may have had to disconnect mine...theyre pretty loud after 2K rpms...
I know this is an old thread, but I am looking to install "noisy" gear drive in my 87 z28 and do not know if disconnecting my knock sensor will mess with anything? Please let me know if anyone has any idea.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
You cant just disconnect it, as it will set a SES light code 42. To bypass it, you have to connect the right resistor to the circuit, I dont remember what size it is. I would just not install the noisy gear drive as they cause too many problems.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
They make noise and confuse the knock sensor, making it think the engine is knocking. That will retard the timing.
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