I've got a 1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 2.73 POSI, 4 speeds automatic transmission (with B&M shifter), hard-top, 16" gold wheels and about 70 000 miles on it.

I will do a complete tune up this weekend: spark plugs and wires, cap, rotor, PCV valve, air filters, fuel filter, clean the throttle body and change the motor oil for Mobil 1...

After that, I'll have about 1000$ left to spend on mods.

What would you do? I would like to have the car go in the 13's pretty easy in the 1/4 if possible. If I could hang with every stock F-Body ever made I would be happy.

Please take note that I'm no mechanic so I'll have to pay someone to do the work.

It will also be a daily driver from april to october...

Thanks!

 

Well my suspension has definitely seen better days. So I would do that first. But that's me. And that's all stuff you can do in your garage with some wrenches and a jack.

But $1,000 is more than enough to get a 350 into the 13's with engine mods. First do the exhaust. Headers back if you can. Then work on the intake. Whatevers left over you can put into a camshaft or perhaps some computer tuning.

 

I think the suspension upgrades would be the best place to start. Stiffer springs, beefier sway bars, panhard bar, etc. could easily be upgraded for the $1000 even if you have to get someone else to do it. Will make a big difference in posture and launch plus when you do the engine and rear mods your suspension will already be up to speed and you wont be trying to dig up money to get it right to handle the new power. Besides, suspension helps the stock setup...

Plus, since its low miles, you could always spray it into the 13s without totally killing the motor for about $600...

 

You are not going to get into the 13s in a stock 3rd gen for $1000. You can make your Camaro a lot more fun to drive (and faster) if you fix the suspension. Don't even bother with the motor yet (except for the tuneups you aready described). You need to do the same thing with your suspension that you are doing to the motor.
Have your trusted mechanic go over your suspension and identify parts that are worn out or broken. For shocks, get good aftermarket units, like Konis. Have you mechanic replace anything that is broken. Sphon.net has a lot of good components.

When I had my mechanic replace all of the components that were broken, as well as install my Konis and Moog frontend kit, it was like night and day - driving an new car. The total for my job, was about $2k, including the Konis, Moog, and all the work and parts the mechanic had to replace.

 

The suspension seem good all around, but yeah it could help.

But I would like some power mods too hehe.

 

Technically you could spend the $1k nitrous, run a 150 shot, and do a 13. Not that drivetrain would last long, but you *could* run a 13 with 1k.

 

How do you figure that? I ran 14.3@96 in my 80kmi 90 350 GTA, with just a Mobil 1 oil change, Bosch plugs,TPIS wires, Hypertech coil, cap&rotor,and K&N(about $200 total) on GSC's. All I did next was put a off the shelf Ed Wright chip,160 thermostat,bypassed the throttlebody, airfoil, AFPR set at 50psi,ported the plenum,(about $250)and ran 13.9@98. I just did a tuneup on my 96kmi 91 Formula with rapidfires and MSD wires, cap, rotor,and coil and it feels faster than when I did the same to my GTA.

 

-hooker headers (uncoated in summit for $150)
-hooker y-pipe (look on the hooker web site) about $150
-cat-back (i like flowmaster) (in summit a 3" kit is $350)
-K&Ns about $60

-hypertech cap and roder
id find a freind that could help with the exhaust, it isnot that hard.
those headers go in easy, but they are NOT emissions legel.
but on the up side most inspection places just look for a cat.(at least where i live)

 

I'll have my mechanic look at everything in the suspension and in the front... If everything is good, I would like some power mods. Don't tell me I can't be a little faster with 1000$?

 

Youll definitely get something fr $1000, but you may not get 13s. Depending on what you do though, it could be done. Nitrous, intake/head work combos, rear gears...any one of those would get you close within your budget. A lot depends on how well you want it done and what brand parts you want to go with.

 

Well, I'm an unemployed college kid and I'm on a "low bucks" effort myself albeit on a 305; suspension is a good start, gears will make it way more fun to drive something like 3.42s at least, more if you don't highway drive a lot. You'll need a different carrier however.
Past that, I agree on headers/exhaust, then what I like to call "hp by die grinder" if you've got the skills. Look up the guides here, pull the intake off and start going to town on it. While the intake is off, look on ebay and get a pulled ZZ3/4 camshaft and re-use your old roller lifters, or if you have the $$ the LT4 hotcam. Other then that, I'd look into doing some PROMs for it yourself.

 

I think if you seriously want to get into the 13s with a grand, do all the mods your self, then it would be very possible but if you hire someone to do it it wont be as easy since labore becomes expensive

 

Get a Chip! (Hypertech, etc, whatever, take your pick)! my chip made a big difference. Even my girlfriend was impressed! that by itself.

- transmission shift kit, (B&M, TCI, Art Carr, Trans Go, etc, whatever, take your pick), set for "meanest" shifts. mandatory. opt'l: trans cooler for lifetime durability.

- boxed rear lower control arms with poly-U bushings (you gotta hook up). your rear shocks better be in good condition, otherwise KYB's.
- Flowmaster 3" (single) cat-back exhaust, definitely.
- shorty headers (SLP, Hooker, etc, take your pick), yup.
- K&N intake filter.
- port the TPI plenum (remove the dam behind the TB).
- 160* thermostat
- remove AIR pump, use GM pulley (if your state doesn't inspect).

make sure your cat conv (if req'd) flows good (i.e "test-pipe" or aftermarket).

if you got money left over:
chassis:
weld-in subframe connectors (not bolt-in!).
strut tower brace.

intake:
Edelbrock TPI manifold base
SLP runners

ignition:
MSD 6 (subject to debate)
your choice of ign coil (MSD, Accel, etc).

next round of Las Vegas winnings:
poly-U bushing for trans torque arm
aftermarket cylinder heads (you gotta win big)

panhard rod.

 

I have some brand new LCA's for sale if your interested and a panhard bar.

 

Dont waste your time on a cookie cutter chip.

Learn to do your own Prom Tuning on the board here, figure $200 should be more than enough to get u going. Better mileage and power :-)

Get headers and a cat back, $500-750(shop used if u can even cheaper)

Than port your plenum and stock intake(if u have enough left scratch up a used base)

Ditch the 2 series for some 3:23 gears.

later
Jeremy

 

get an entire exhaust system

 

First off you need to get a baseline. Take your car to the track and see what you can run as is. Every car is different. I have seen stock L98's run anywhere from 14.2-15.2 bone stock. It all depends on the driver, tune, conditions, and traction. Stock my L98 ran 14.8 at 93. After pretty much full bolt ons i am now running 13.4 at 100 with 249rwh and 334rwt.

 

Get full exhaust, some 3.42 gears, and save whatever money you have after that for gas

 

If you can learn to launch properly and have some nice tires, with the addition of headers and 3.42's, you should hit 13's.

 

I would like to buy 3.42, but where can I buy them so they fit my stock rear end? Right now it's the stock 89 2.73, 10-bolts, POSI with disc brakes.

 

I bought a set of 3:42:1 gears to replace my 2:73:1 gears from randys ring and pinion. I got the Yuko brand. So far i am very happy. It was 204 shipped to my door and another 200 installed.

 

Randy's ring and pinion in Washington state should be able to fix you up on the gears, just give 'em a call.

I would get the SFCs this time around on your mods, third gens get pretty rattley if you don't. You'll notice a difference immediately in the way the car drives, especially over things like railroad tracks.

 

Just curious if you have actually done any tests to see what your currently running? If you play it smart, you should be able to get into the 13's pretty easily... The question then becomes how much into the 13's do you want to go?

 

Watch ebay for gears too, sometimes you can get them for pretty cheap. And I agree with the other guys, do the suspension first, especially if you go to the lower gear. A B&M shift improver kit would also be a decent idea if you still have some money left.

 

2800 stall, headers, catback.

Thats 13.8x for you right there for about a grand. But even the small things like k and n's with a gutted box and a diff muffler will help.

 

that's exactly what I would suggest