crap.... broken bolt on FPR
crap.... broken bolt on FPR
ok, so I go to install my new BBK AFPR, first screw i go to take off, snap... twisted right off........
All the rest came off fine, I installed it, but i have no idea how I can get that tiny *** little screw out... Anyone have any ideas? would it be ok with 1 bolt missing?
looking for some feedback on the best way to go here.
All the rest came off fine, I installed it, but i have no idea how I can get that tiny *** little screw out... Anyone have any ideas? would it be ok with 1 bolt missing?
looking for some feedback on the best way to go here.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 683
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From: Florida
Car: '87 Trans-Am
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 or 3.73..figuring it out still
Can you pull it apart in two pieces or something and get a hold of the stud thats left or no? If not, I believe those bolts are shintzy little aluminum hardwares and can probably be drilled and tapped with some patience with relative ease. Im not sure Id risk leaving a bolt out just because of the location...not real easy to pull in and out if it does decide to leak or cause problems.
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From: Flowood,MS
Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI
Transmission: 700r4,2500 stall
Axle/Gears: G80,10 bolt 3.42's
seen it before on a holly afpr.the guy drilled it outwith a tiny drill bit,then got a small washer and screw and tightened a little bolt on the bottom.BE CAREFUL.I wouldnt want to screw it up.Did you buy it from somewhere and get a reciept
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 75
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From: AZ
Car: 1992 Miata
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Ford IRS 8.8" 3.08
I don't like the stock FPR setup anyways, when I get mine figured out to run a divorced FPR I'll give mine up? Might be a while though?Also they are tinny little bolts with a funky thread pitch to them that I couldn't find at the local bolt store (Wanted to get away from the funky security torx bits). Very easy to drill out slightly and tap to any thread you want..... I wouldn't leave it out as you run a big chance of having a hard to track vacuum leak, or worse yet a fuel leak. (Could possibly use some high tack sealant very carefully and tighten and let dry and might just work out fine.
For nice stainless stuff in either metric or SAE try out Nuts and Bolts and Screws - Bolt Depot if you choose to go the drill and tap route.
For nice stainless stuff in either metric or SAE try out Nuts and Bolts and Screws - Bolt Depot if you choose to go the drill and tap route.
there is a little bit of a stud there from where It broke off once you remove everything.
Maybe I'll try heating it up and seeing if I can get it out with some vicegrips.
I bought the AFPR from Summit. The Fuel Rail came off my car.
Maybe I'll try heating it up and seeing if I can get it out with some vicegrips.
I bought the AFPR from Summit. The Fuel Rail came off my car.
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 683
Likes: 2
From: Florida
Car: '87 Trans-Am
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 or 3.73..figuring it out still
Just make sure if youre trying to pull whats left of the stud, you heat it real well and spray some penetrating lube in there too. I had the shintzy little aluminum torx bolts break in ym throttle body for the TPS sensor and had to drill them out and tap it. Needless to say I tapped it to a 10-32 and put in stainless cap allen bolts...
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