i have finally orderes my comp cam.. its .477 intake and .480 exhaust... i think everyone knows about it.. its the upgraded cam designed for tpi... i was wondering what the stock cams are rated at for my 92 350(i jsut want to know). now for the real question... since i assume this is a more agresive cam than my stock, i will need new heads. i would like to be able to reach about 5500 rmp because the cam is good to about 5800. i also herd that vortec heads are really good. my problem is people here know to much about cars... and well i would like someone to explain to me in english some of my options... i really dont know to much about heads, but i really want to learn because im a hardcore car guy, but im only 17. anywho, you know what im looking for.. anyone know my options?

 

It would be benificial for you and for all of us to have a good idea of how much $$ you are willing to invest in the heads and other improvements such as intake base, runners, throttle body... Also, I'd suggest that you post what sort of running gear you're working with, trans type, gear ratio's, exhaust etc.

 

well, i guess im sort of like everyone.. best bang for you buck. i dunno, i was thinking about 600-800 bucks. now tranny and rear end are on the side. got a shift kit on the tranny, and i am looking at a 2000 stall tc. rear end will be changed to a 3.73 and it will be posi. got a set of custom headers made from a friend, 1.5s to a 3 inch aluminum. tb is stock but il be gettin a dual 58mm. plenum and runners are stock... i dont think im going to change those, have not decided yet. fp regulator is adjustable up to 67psi and i am looking into some injectors, but before i get those i got to know more about the rest of the car. you see its winter here and i am ordering parts for the car. so there are some specks

 

I'm moving this to TPI as this is not Aftermarket Product Review.

 

Six to eight hundred for bare heads?

 

If you plan to keep the OE intake base and not go Vortec, I'd suggest you take a look at World S/R Torquer iron heads. The assembled heads will cost about $400 each. You'll need to select either 67 or 76cc. You can purchase them from Jegs under part #'s 955-042660-1 for the 67cc's or 955-042670-1 for the 76cc's. Both have 170cc intake runners, good for street power. Summit also sells the same heads...

Take a look at World product site: World Products High Performance Small Block & Big Block Chevy & Ford Parts

 

I wouldnt worrie about a 58mm throttle body. That would be a waste of money. Unless you plan on rebuilding the whole motor. But for now....leave the stock on on there.
I just did the whole intake, runners, timing chain,Adjustable fuel pressure reg., ported and polished plenum,cam, springs, valve seals, injectors. Everything is in my Sig. All I can say is...How many times do you want to tear apart the intake set up on your car?
If your going to do the cam....do EVERYTHING. If you have questions just ask. Every change you make, its always good to have it tunned up or have a chip burnt for you. I dont want to tell you what to do but its always easier to do things one time.
But if you just want to do the cam, you will also need new springs to match the higher lift. If you have the springs out, change your valve seals, While the cam is out, change your timing gear & chain. Most upgraded came require a new AFPR. So swap that out too. If your not changing your injectors, you will still need a couple Oring kits, one for your injectors and one for your fuel rail.
I bought a Ported & polished plenum, Edelbrock hi-flow intake & the edelbrock hi-flow runners to match. I was just going to change that. But the cam was only an hour away....so I said why not.
O you can use your stock lifters I did.

 

thx guys.. help was great.. yea problem with cars.. you always want more and more... but i think im going to start with the tranny. get that built up, with a 3000 stall converter so i got room to improve. then i hit up the fp regulator, plenum and runners. everyone seems to tell me thats its a good idea to do those. intake. then il get the cam. the cam is like 120 bucks so its not to bad. but i want something loike 450 hp out of it..s o do you suggest doing the bottem end to?

 

Bottom end should hold fine.

On a TPI engine, intake is always a good place to start. Good set of runners, base and porting the plenum yourself is a must. What parts/brands you use is up to you. AFPR/injectors should be next, along with a CAI or something similar to a custom air intake setup. Exhaust would be next. Letting the engine breath in and out works wonders for any engine. In regards with your heads, with only spending 600-800 on heads, why not just port the stock L98 ones or get your hands on some Aluminum L98 heads? Certainly alot cheaper than buying a new set, especially aluminum ones. Cam wise will depend on what Intake parts and heads you get. After you decide what you want to do with the car/engine, decide on a cam. Cam also reflects the converter. I have the same rear you do and as it's good with a TPI engine (3.23 and 3.42 are idealy the best to use), I'll be switching mine out for a set of 3.73's along with a 4thgen 10 bolt which is built. You should look into that as well. Stock 10 bolts are pretty weak. Take a look at my current setup in my sig. That's using ported 305 heads and I should be a low 13 1/4 slip. It's easy to make power, you just have to find the ways to do it.

 

man i got a SICK setup for air in and out.... i actuall jsut got it done, like i look out my air setup right, then i went to my local exhaust shop and got him to bend me up a 3inch pipe from the TB to the stock location, wow does this look DAM good, like its so sweet, looks better then anything i have seen on this site, when i get some picks il for sure send it to you. im also going there to see if i can make up a sweet air cleener setup, im going to be filling the compartment with 2 k&n firlters, both cones and both 3 inch, it iwll be sick. when i get it done i might start selling them. anywho, and for headers i got some custom ones made for me, out of aluminum... looks amazing. i like aluminum becuase they are easy to cleen, and look really good. i would like to know more about what you were talking about heads. go into more detail about using my own or getting them ported. i already decided on a cam, its .520 lift and .515 exhaust. mayeb i went about this the wrong way. anywho tell me more about this aluminum head option to. you see, in my title i asked for options, and only you and Wadebryant gave me any advice. i checked out the website that Wadebryant gave me, i really like their products, but i was wondering, is it better to go with a smaller chamber, say a 64cc vrs a 70 or 75cc? wil the smaller one give me better compresion? the top end, this includes like FPRG, injectors, plenum, tb, and runners, they will all be done later, when i get mroe cash. its jsut winter now i and want to get the hard stuff done early. tis easier to do the top later when tis still in the car. now you say the bottem end will handle the pwer im going to be puttin into it? i dont want a detination here.

 

oh next question, with these new heads, and new components, will i be able to cahnge my shift point in my auto to about 5500rpm? the cam from comp says it makes power to about 6000 rpm, so i would like to get all the performance out of it. and would it be benificial to go with a longer duration exhaust, there is a power max on that has .509 intake and .528 exhaust?

 

Man, the last place you want to skimp in an engine is the heads. Pinch pennies everywhere else, and get yourself the best heads you can get.

Up until recently, I've been really big on the Edelbrock Etec 170s; they make amazing power. The only drawback I saw with them was the Vortec design. If you didn't already have the correct intake, that was going to add to the cost.

AFR's new Eliminator series, however, are even better than the Etecs. Just as Vortecs adapted LT1 head design for standard small blocks, AFR's Eliminators adapt LS1 design, and, they use standard intakes.

You can mate those heads to a stock L31 short block (if you're building a new engine), or to a stock L98 short block (if that's what you already have), and make at least 50 hp than you could with the same combination and less expensive heads. You can always upgrage the intake, exhaust, ignition, etc., later, but your heads are the heart of the engine.

Sure, there are plenty of choices that cost less than the AFRs, but, at some point, you'll outgrow them. Better to grow into the best heads you can afford, and even be able to swap them over to other short blocks as you go.