i get a engine service light, code 36 - m.a.f. car runs great, although fuel tank pressure blows out fuel through vac.(charcoal) cannister. help, m.a.f. is about $170. anyone? ideas? cheaper way/part or repair info. process...?
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Double check that the wiring harness hasn't become disconnected from the MAF.

 

it's still connected. i was told ya can clean them... i don't know what it does though.. still learning about it.

 

you might be stuck buying a new MAF sensor. or you could switch to speed density and eliminate the MAF sensor all together. they have a harness on this site...

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/indexhome.html

 

I checked the site out but really don't know what to look for. I've never heard of speed density. Any more info on what it is? got a pic? i was thinking of the a.i.c. valve that another guy told me was a code 36. i will get th right pic up soon.
aaron

 

speed density eliminates the MAF sensor. speed density uses a MAP (Manifold absolute pressure) sensor instead. it is MUCH more accepting of mods and definately isn't as finicky. by the way the picture you took you might want to move the picture about a foot to the right and take the picture and then you will have the MAP sensor in the pic. it's about as big around as a baseball (maybe slightly smaller) and about 3-4 inches long and sits between the throttle body and where the intake plumbing goes into the bumper. it's part of the intake tubing. send me a PM with your instant messenger name if you want to talk further i can help you a good bit with this if you are interested.

 

aaron, I thought I'd jump up here from the other thread. I did a little reading in the GM service manual. The code 36 applies to what is known as the "burn off" cicuit built into the MAF circuitry. GM claims that a code 36 does not necessarily indicate a bad MAF. The 36 code relates to a condition where when the engine is off the ecm sends a certain amount of current to the MAF element to "burn off" any dirt, residue or contaminants on the MAF element. If the ecm senses an abnormally high resistance in this portion of the MAF circuitry it will throw the 36 code. They first recommend visually checking all MAF terminal connections and the visually checking the MAF element wire, and then a series of diagnostic meter based checks. I have the book available if you need this stuff. As for the charcoal canister...the canister collects and holds vapors (and small amounts of liquid fuel) from the gas tank. These vapors are released from the tank by a vacuum operated valve. When the engine is started manifold vacuum is then applied to a solenid controlled valve at the canister allowing these vapors to be pulled into the intake to be burned off. This operation is controlled by the ecm. As the motor warms up and the O2 sensor sends a rich condition, the ecm then closes the solenoid trapping the vapors in the canister. Of course there are a couple of tests to be performed to check the operation of this solenoid and also the valves themselves. You had mentioned in the other post about a hose hanging loose by the gas tank as well as gas seeping from the canister. Perhaps reconnecting that hose and visually checking all your vacuum lines to make sure they are connected and have not collapsed on themselves causing a blockage might be a good way to start. Let me know if you need any tech stuff and pics from the book. I'll be around for a while, Joe

 

got a pic of the maf sensor? i was mistaken on what i thought it was.

 

here ya go...

 

The 36 error code is the MAF burnoff function fault. The burnoff relay is on the fire wall on the drvr side.

Do a search, a pic of the relays has been posted here several times (maybe by madmax).

 

thanks for the info. my air intake clamp was loose,so i had an air leak. i had it tight a week ago and disconnected the negative on the battery to reset it, but i did it again today and no more code. Simple and cheap fix. "turn of the screwdriver", as the saying goes... I guess that should be the first thing to check when ya get a code 36... thanks again guys.

Aaron, a.k.a. "my-roc"

 

I was always told modifying a car with a MAF is less of a hassle then modifying a car with SD, because a SD will need a tune (new prom) everytime a mod is done. Well atleast if you want to get maximum performance.

 

yes but you can do ALOT more with SD than MAF. MAF systems aren't very accepting of larger cams. most of the high HP TPI's are SD