Hey guys, im trying to put a build list together for my TPI so I need a little help. (learned to plan before the build haha, guess how lmao). I was wanting to get the engine to do the best it can without getting crazy. So I came up with a small list of things to do, this being my DD; I am going to try and maintain drivability and milage (knocks gears out of the option as well as a super high stall). Is this combo good or can you recomend something better?

52mm TB (will I need an airfoil?)
AS & M Runners
Edylbrock manifold
Ported Stock Plenum
SLP CAI

Hooker Long Tube Headers
Hooker Cat Back
New Cats (havn't been able to find dual cats yet)

1.6 Roller Rockers (as opposed to a cam / save time and money)
New valve springs (anyone know the ## I will need?)
Titanium Retainers

MSD Blaster 2 coil
MSD 8.8mm wires

Underdrive pulleys (will I actually see any power from these )

I also wanted to get a nice baffled and scraped oil pan, anyone know if the Hamburger 87+ years pan will work?

After I get this all done I will tune the PROM

Lastly, anyone know what kinda HP numbers I will make with this? I am at 5500ft and we have occasionally 8000ft density .

Thanks yalls!

 

A bit of a quickie...
Ditch the 52mm TB. Stock's fine up to ~475-500hp
airfoil doesn't hurt doesn't always help
It's debatable on your coil. I run accels super stock coil and all I noticed was a little more oomph up top. But we all know how accurate the butt dyno is.

Personally I think you just go ahead and do a cam. The cams are a bit small from the factory. Your valve springs can stay stock if you're leaving your cam stock.

You're opening up your intake and exhaust. That's good. Now your restriction will be your heads and cam.

 

So the 48mm is okay, good. My understanding is smaller TB=more tq anyway and not to mention there is that not having to pay for it thing anything I may want to do to the stocker? TB bypass? Any areas to port out?

 

Never heard of the smaller tb = more tq.
definitely do the TB bypass. You don't need it in Alb.
Not much porting can be done to the TB. A little polishing...some people have machined down the screws that hold the throttle blades.
Just shine it up. It's more than sufficient for our engines and it'll look good as well.

 

My understanding with the TB was smaller ports equal greater velocity as opposed to larger ports and therefor greater torque. Kinda like the intake runners on a set of cylinder heads.

But other than that, nobody knows the estimated power producion of this list? As well as weather or not underdrive pullys are worth it or just a bunch of .

 

the TB u have already is good and gears are good for a LTR (tpi) setup.

Your going to want SOME stall. I had a 2200 on my daily and honestly wished i went much bigger. Atleast 24-2600. Id like 2800.


Mid-low 13's is doable. Find a cam and see if you cant pick up some alum l98 heads used and have them cleaned up or something ;crack 12's.

 

The underdrive pully's are very easy to install and you will notice on the butt dyno. I don't know about accual hp but less rotating mass lets you get to your peak torque curve faster.

 

It's good to see you are putting a lot of thought into your mods. The underdrive pulley's will help. I only run the crank pulley, I found I don't need the alternator pulley and I get plenty of juice. I don't sit in traffic a lot either. Forget the CAI and use the money for a Cam, much better spent. Get a AFPR and boost your fuel pressure. Don't worry about a TB, the Holley airfoil is worth the money and it's the best on the market. Titanium retainers are a waste of money, you won't turn the RPM's to warrant them. Yeah, it sounds cool, but they're worthless at this power level. Depending on cost I'd go shorty headers, they make almost the exact same power for your use and they're easier to install. Unless you're planning on more upgrades later I'd go with SLP runners, they're cheaper and you'll get about the same power increase with your motor.

 

Your list seems pretty well thought out, but ill just put in my $0.02 seeing i just finished re-assembling my TPI *gulp* 305 with a new cam.

My opinion for 1: If your changing the oil pan your engine is coming out anyways, and the thing is apart, you might aswel undo about another 10 bolts to take off the timing cover, cam gear and put in a better cam. Something like an LT4 hotcam would do you some good.

Ive put a sh!tload of thought into the TPI system i plan on building next year. This engine is a 305, and will consist of: (general prices beside)

Induction:
89 GM Tuned Port Induction system:
Ported Plenum (TB wall ground down, runner ports siamesed to match SLP runners) - Free-mod
SLP Runners (Siamesed and ported)$330
Edelbrock Highflow TPI base (Siamesed to match SLP Runners)$350
Thunder Racing Airfoil $30
Stock Throttle body
Rear half of MAF De-screened (lets the MAF flow a bit better, but still protection upfront just incase, because MAFS are expensive)

Engine:
GM LB9 Block (3.736 bore x 3.48 Stroke)
Speed Pro Hypereutectic Pistons (flat tops w/ 4 valve releifs)$320 (Kit from summit)
Federal Mongul Bearings-part of kit
ARP Main bolts - $50
ARP Head bolts - $50
LT4 Cam Kit (LT4 springs, retainers, cam, rockers etc) - $500
Eagle SIR Rods w/ARP Main bolts - $269
GM 081 Centerbolt heads
Heads gasketmatch, and ports gutted for extra flow - Freemod
Heads bowl blended and intake valve cut to 1.94 (makes a 1.94/1.5 valves) - $75
Press in studs pulled out and head tapped for thread in studs - $50 for tool, $50 for studs


Exhaust:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers w/ Y-pipe - $600
Pypes 3" Catback - $300

All parts are transferrable to a 350 later (im only 16, and parents have ruled me to a 305). The engine will hit about mid - high 13 seconds, which is darn good for a 305.

Also the ARP bolts, I beam Rods will have you set for a 100 shot of NX to hit 12s.

 

Oil pan sounds like a lot of wasted effort to me, its not easy to R+R and if you dont want to 'go crazy' by doing things like heads and cam, forget swapping the oil pan.

 

if the prices quoted for runners & a base are right & you want to stay with TPI, i would think about a complete intake instead of just a few parts of it. the FIRST Injections TPI setup is around $1000.00 vs 700.00 for runners & a base. think about it, for 700 you still have your old plenum which will need
some work & your old throttle body, about 1000.00 gets you a bigger TB, bigger runners than the SLPs, a better plenum & a better base than the Edelbrock.
FIRST may also have the Vortec base available now.