Car Dies, Tow man was late. (HELP PLEASE)
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 106
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From: Richmond Hill, GA.
Car: White 1989 Iroc-Z / Teal 91 RS
Engine: V8 350 TPI / V8 305 TBI
Car Dies, Tow man was late. (HELP PLEASE)
Wats good guys? I did a search about random dies, read up on injectors, coils, fuel pumps, computers, etc. Ill just tell you the basic of what has happened in my situation. I have a 89 Iroc-Z TPI 350, the car is pretty much stock, no major upgrades. The car has been booked, on all that has been done to it since I got it, the guy who owned it before me did the same (Original Owner). Anyways pretty much stock, I recently did a tune up on it, the plugs (bosch platinum 2's), Wires (accel 8.8's), Oil/Filter, Ignition Coil, Distributor Cap, Rotor, O2 sensor (all from local autozone). After everything was changed I started it up and it ran good, I did the cap, rotor, coil, the following weekend after everything else. So it ran good for about a week and then suddenly im going down the road and it just randomly dies, Service Engine Soon Lights pops on. Im on the side of the road and can not get it started it will turn over yes but will not start. Thinking im out of gas (it was pretty low). So I get gas and it still wont start on a full tank. I search around the engine make sure everything is connected and one of the plugs is loose I can take it out with my hand. Not having the tools and being at nite and all I just have it towed back to the house. The next day I retrace my steps, Check my plugs, and tighten them all up, o2 sensor is tight, no start. Hook my old Ignition Coil back up, no start. Check all my connections to the cap and coil and plugs, no start. I will be pulling the cap and rotor back off tomorrow and make sure they are ok. It was running good there for a little while after tune up then it just dies. So I need to know if you guys have any experience on what to check for. I did some search gathered some stuff from searches about maybe the ECM, is there anyway to test this, they say run codes but I have not done that before. When I try to start it the Ignition comes on the fuel pump relay clicks and and the pumps primes. I can smell fuel but it will not start. I noticed after trying to start it the fuel pump will sometimes stay on for about 8-10 seconds just buzzing. When I first got it I did replace the relay and the fuel pump (in tank). So any ideas to help me get back on the road would be more than appreciated, I gotta get my main means of transportation fixed, ill try what I said im going to do tomorrow, see how that works out. I dont mind doing the work my self because that way I know whats what. Ill keep ya posted after I look at it tomorrow. Trying to avoid the shop..... But I dont know.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Codes: https://www.thirdgen.org/service-eng...ht-error-codes
After checking your cap and rotor, check for spark. Pull a plug wire and stick a screwdriver into it so the metal blade is touching the wire contactor. With your hand on the insulated handle, hold it so it's about 1/4" away from your block. Have someone turn it over and you should see a spark jump.
After checking your cap and rotor, check for spark. Pull a plug wire and stick a screwdriver into it so the metal blade is touching the wire contactor. With your hand on the insulated handle, hold it so it's about 1/4" away from your block. Have someone turn it over and you should see a spark jump.
Any time the ignition is on and the engine is not running, the "Service Engine" lamp should be on. That's completely normal.
The fuel pump should run a two second prime cycle any time the ignition is turned on after having been off for twenty seconds. It will also run any time the ECM recieves ignition reference pulses generated by the pickup coil and HEI module. You can use that to your advantage, in that if you briefly crank the engine you should hear the fuel pump run a cycle. If the pump does not run for two seconds after the last reference pulse, the relay may be a problem.
The fuel pump will also run via the auxilliary oil pressure switch whenever there is more than 4-7 PSIG of oil pressure. The pump remains on for 8-10 seconds after cranking because it is taking that long for oil pressure to bleed off.
As naf is suggesting, check for spark during the no-start episodes. If there is spark, check for fuel injector pulses.
The fuel pump should run a two second prime cycle any time the ignition is turned on after having been off for twenty seconds. It will also run any time the ECM recieves ignition reference pulses generated by the pickup coil and HEI module. You can use that to your advantage, in that if you briefly crank the engine you should hear the fuel pump run a cycle. If the pump does not run for two seconds after the last reference pulse, the relay may be a problem.
The fuel pump will also run via the auxilliary oil pressure switch whenever there is more than 4-7 PSIG of oil pressure. The pump remains on for 8-10 seconds after cranking because it is taking that long for oil pressure to bleed off.
As naf is suggesting, check for spark during the no-start episodes. If there is spark, check for fuel injector pulses.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 106
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From: Richmond Hill, GA.
Car: White 1989 Iroc-Z / Teal 91 RS
Engine: V8 350 TPI / V8 305 TBI
ok I did as I said but a couple of things went wrong along the way, first my distributor cap bolts broke off in the metal bracket, so i had to drill and retap those. Second was there was a 2 prong connector that connected into the bottom side of the ignition coil bracket I soppose that grounds it to the car, that was disconnected. I eventually inspected everything and got everything reassembled, everything seemed to be fine. I did try to start it, but it would only turn over as it has been doing. So I tried the screwdriver test. I pulled 3 plug wires, one at a time of course. I got no spark from each. A little confused and lost as to where to go from here, I thought I would repost and let you guys know the progress. A friend of mine did mention to me the the HEI module could be a reason for it not starting, what do you guys think? I will have to get me a new voltmeter my old one broke. So thats the only thing I can think of is to start checking connections. Any input on what I should start checking next would be very helpful. Looks like ill be riding my bike tomorrow
. Intill I can get tag and insurance for rally sport. Thanks guys.
. Intill I can get tag and insurance for rally sport. Thanks guys. Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Richmond Hill, GA.
Car: White 1989 Iroc-Z / Teal 91 RS
Engine: V8 350 TPI / V8 305 TBI
Thanks for your replies guys, Now by "Ignition Module" do you mean the little bracket piece that has 2 bolts on eachside and 2 electrical connectors coming into it. Or the whole piece that the distrubutor cap mounts to and the rotor sets on. I believe you are talking about the bracket looking piece that has the two connectors snapping onto it, but just making sure. I will try your suggestions, tuesday is when ill most likely get to it. Ill keep ya posted on the progress.
Last edited by thirdgen_man718; Feb 26, 2007 at 12:04 AM.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
The ignition module IS the piece held in with two screws and two electrical connections.
You really should check your trouble codes and post them.
You really should check your trouble codes and post them.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Richmond Hill, GA.
Car: White 1989 Iroc-Z / Teal 91 RS
Engine: V8 350 TPI / V8 305 TBI
I unplugged the computer, so I dont know if that cleared the codes or not, ill try to run them and see what I get.... and keep ya post thanks for the replies.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 106
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From: Richmond Hill, GA.
Car: White 1989 Iroc-Z / Teal 91 RS
Engine: V8 350 TPI / V8 305 TBI
Well today I took off the Ignition Module and had it tested at my local autozone, he said it was "gone" yeah very bad. I got a new one came home and put it in, Bam it fired right up :\, I laughed and soaked up the cherished moment so thank all of you for your replies and help. I did let it run awhile and it seemed to run really good. Except for a nice little surging in the engine, which is why I did a tune up on it. The plugs and wires were just fried on it, which I thought may have been causing misfire. Im thinking I may have to take it in and fix the timing on it, not really sure if I could do it my self ill have to check into it more. A friend said its just a little screw, but yeah. Im glad im back up and on the road, ill try to post some pics of it.
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