383 TPI Swap
05-24-2007, 12:18 AM
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Location: Monroe, GA
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Car: 1989 RS
Engine: LS1 - HP Tuners Enhanced 2Bar OS
Transmission: T56 - Pro 5.0
Axle/Gears: 9 Inch - 31 Spl Tru-Trac - 4.11
383 TPI Swap
Hello all,
It's getting to be that time of year. Warmer weather and an absence of snow and salt means that I can once again remove my car from the garage. I've had this thing for about 10 years now, and I am finally ready to do that engine swap that I talked about when I first bought it. In a way I am glad that I waited, as I now have the experience and ever expanding knowledge to make it neat and clean.
I have settled on a 383 crate motor. I wanted to build my own, but I cannot beat the price for the crate motor. And, I certainly can't compete with their 7 year/70,000 mile warranty. I am going with a late model aluminum head mill, with a dyno sheet that shows a peak horse power of 410. I have the option to change the cam, but I will most likely stick with their selection as it showed a reasonable amount of power.
I purchased a complete tuned port setup about 5 years ago. The ECM is a 16198259, for a MAF system. I also have a speed density ECM and corresponding pigtails. I may convert that over next year, but for ease of installation and tuning I am going to use the MAF system this year. The only thing I can see missing from the system is the distributor. I have one but it is labeled as having a bad pickup coil.
Now, I do have a few last minute questions, that some of you who have been there and done that can answer:
Since the long block is a late model, will the distributor from my L03 work in this application?
Does anyone sell a reasonable TPI bolt kit (intake runner, intake to head, throttle cable bracket, and distributor cover) that looks semi-factory?
Can I reuse the fuel lines from the hard lines on the subframe to the intake?
The injectors that came with the setup are blue and have a FoMoCo (Ford) logo on them... How can I find out the flow rate?
I'm sure you guys will trigger further questions, but does it look like I have most of my bases covered here? I am a fairly competent mechanic, but I know that I cannot possibly know it all. So, by all means don't hold back on the technical jargon. I appreciate any and every useful comment.
Thanks,
Sean
It's getting to be that time of year. Warmer weather and an absence of snow and salt means that I can once again remove my car from the garage. I've had this thing for about 10 years now, and I am finally ready to do that engine swap that I talked about when I first bought it. In a way I am glad that I waited, as I now have the experience and ever expanding knowledge to make it neat and clean.
I have settled on a 383 crate motor. I wanted to build my own, but I cannot beat the price for the crate motor. And, I certainly can't compete with their 7 year/70,000 mile warranty. I am going with a late model aluminum head mill, with a dyno sheet that shows a peak horse power of 410. I have the option to change the cam, but I will most likely stick with their selection as it showed a reasonable amount of power.
I purchased a complete tuned port setup about 5 years ago. The ECM is a 16198259, for a MAF system. I also have a speed density ECM and corresponding pigtails. I may convert that over next year, but for ease of installation and tuning I am going to use the MAF system this year. The only thing I can see missing from the system is the distributor. I have one but it is labeled as having a bad pickup coil.
Now, I do have a few last minute questions, that some of you who have been there and done that can answer:
Since the long block is a late model, will the distributor from my L03 work in this application?
Does anyone sell a reasonable TPI bolt kit (intake runner, intake to head, throttle cable bracket, and distributor cover) that looks semi-factory?
Can I reuse the fuel lines from the hard lines on the subframe to the intake?
The injectors that came with the setup are blue and have a FoMoCo (Ford) logo on them... How can I find out the flow rate?
I'm sure you guys will trigger further questions, but does it look like I have most of my bases covered here? I am a fairly competent mechanic, but I know that I cannot possibly know it all. So, by all means don't hold back on the technical jargon. I appreciate any and every useful comment.
Thanks,
Sean
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