Need tips on changing plugs/wires
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 102
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Need tips on changing plugs/wires
My '88 GTA has Edelbrock headers on it. The plugs appear to be quite inacessible. I have avoided even trying so far, but I know it needs new plugs and wires.
Anyone have any good tips for getting at these hard to reach plugs?
Anyone have any good tips for getting at these hard to reach plugs?
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 5
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
If you have A/C, you will still have to go underneath the car to get at most of the plugs on the passenger side. But you can get at all of the plugs on the driver's side.
I found that #1 plug did not allow me to put a socket on it. I just took a spare socket and ground off about 1/4" (total) from both the bottom and top. Then I used a box end wrench to put on the end of the socket to loosen/tighten it. You can easily turn it with your hand once its loose.
Also, I have a spare spark plug boot that I put on my plugs once they are loose to loosen/tighten the plug with my hand. Gives a better grib and makes it a snap to put on/off by hand, except to initially loosen or finally tighten. Thats the only time I need a wrench.
As for time, driver's side took about 10-15 minutes to do all four. Passenger side took about 30 minutes taking into account jacking up the car and crawling underneath. Still a hell of a lot easier than with the stock manifolds.
I found that #1 plug did not allow me to put a socket on it. I just took a spare socket and ground off about 1/4" (total) from both the bottom and top. Then I used a box end wrench to put on the end of the socket to loosen/tighten it. You can easily turn it with your hand once its loose.
Also, I have a spare spark plug boot that I put on my plugs once they are loose to loosen/tighten the plug with my hand. Gives a better grib and makes it a snap to put on/off by hand, except to initially loosen or finally tighten. Thats the only time I need a wrench.
As for time, driver's side took about 10-15 minutes to do all four. Passenger side took about 30 minutes taking into account jacking up the car and crawling underneath. Still a hell of a lot easier than with the stock manifolds.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,157
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From: Columbus,OH
I dunno when I put my Hookers on it made the plugs very easy to reach. Hehehe I also removed the Air so everything is very easy now. 
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86 Trans Am 355 TPI Rebuilt 700R4 with Corvette servo, modified valve body, and a B&M Torque Converter (2000 rpm stall w/ lock up), 87 350 block bored .30 with new crank, bearings, rings, and magnafluxed rods. Reworked 305 heads with 3-angle valve job. Added in the rebuild was an SLP TPI cam, BBK 58mm Throttle Body,SVO 24# injectors,MSD 6A, Hypertech Power Coil, 1.5 Crane roller tipped rocker arms, SLP Intake Runners and Port matching in upper intake including fully ported plenum, TPIS adjustable fuel pressure regulator @ 46psi, Hooker shorty style headers w/ Thermotech heat wrapping, Custom 3” exhaust with Flowmaster muffler and chrome quad tips, Hypertech Thermomaster Computer chip, K&N open element cone filter on modified MAF per TPIS specs, MSD Wires, removal of A/C hardware and a 1LE firewall cover installed. Also there has been a PST front suspension kit with Hotchkis strut tower brace
http://geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Garage/9548/kyle.html
Kills:
95 Talon TSI, 96 Probe GT, 91 T/A L98, 89 RS, 86 Mustang GT, 88 Mustang LX 5.0, 92 Thunderbird V8. couple or ricers that I think were Civics or Preludes not sure what year, 95 Celica GT-S, 94 Chevy 1/4 ton 350, one of those NASCAR F150's
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86 Trans Am 355 TPI Rebuilt 700R4 with Corvette servo, modified valve body, and a B&M Torque Converter (2000 rpm stall w/ lock up), 87 350 block bored .30 with new crank, bearings, rings, and magnafluxed rods. Reworked 305 heads with 3-angle valve job. Added in the rebuild was an SLP TPI cam, BBK 58mm Throttle Body,SVO 24# injectors,MSD 6A, Hypertech Power Coil, 1.5 Crane roller tipped rocker arms, SLP Intake Runners and Port matching in upper intake including fully ported plenum, TPIS adjustable fuel pressure regulator @ 46psi, Hooker shorty style headers w/ Thermotech heat wrapping, Custom 3” exhaust with Flowmaster muffler and chrome quad tips, Hypertech Thermomaster Computer chip, K&N open element cone filter on modified MAF per TPIS specs, MSD Wires, removal of A/C hardware and a 1LE firewall cover installed. Also there has been a PST front suspension kit with Hotchkis strut tower brace
http://geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Garage/9548/kyle.html
Kills:
95 Talon TSI, 96 Probe GT, 91 T/A L98, 89 RS, 86 Mustang GT, 88 Mustang LX 5.0, 92 Thunderbird V8. couple or ricers that I think were Civics or Preludes not sure what year, 95 Celica GT-S, 94 Chevy 1/4 ton 350, one of those NASCAR F150's
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: T-TOWN O,K
Originally posted by Glenn91L98GTA:
If you have A/C, you will still have to go underneath the car to get at most of the plugs on the passenger side. But you can get at all of the plugs on the driver's side.
I found that #1 plug did not allow me to put a socket on it. I just took a spare socket and ground off about 1/4" (total) from both the bottom and top. Then I used a box end wrench to put on the end of the socket to loosen/tighten it. You can easily turn it with your hand once its loose.
Also, I have a spare spark plug boot that I put on my plugs once they are loose to loosen/tighten the plug with my hand. Gives a better grib and makes it a snap to put on/off by hand, except to initially loosen or finally tighten. Thats the only time I need a wrench.
As for time, driver's side took about 10-15 minutes to do all four. Passenger side took about 30 minutes taking into account jacking up the car and crawling underneath. Still a hell of a lot easier than with the stock manifolds.
If you have A/C, you will still have to go underneath the car to get at most of the plugs on the passenger side. But you can get at all of the plugs on the driver's side.
I found that #1 plug did not allow me to put a socket on it. I just took a spare socket and ground off about 1/4" (total) from both the bottom and top. Then I used a box end wrench to put on the end of the socket to loosen/tighten it. You can easily turn it with your hand once its loose.
Also, I have a spare spark plug boot that I put on my plugs once they are loose to loosen/tighten the plug with my hand. Gives a better grib and makes it a snap to put on/off by hand, except to initially loosen or finally tighten. Thats the only time I need a wrench.
As for time, driver's side took about 10-15 minutes to do all four. Passenger side took about 30 minutes taking into account jacking up the car and crawling underneath. Still a hell of a lot easier than with the stock manifolds.
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