Im getting a code 33 and cannot get rid of it. The car drops power and will not accelerate properly, it seems to happen mostly in hot weather high humidity or when the car gets too hot. I've read other post about it but either can't figure them out or understand them since Im pretty new to this. I was also wondering since the code 33 has to do with the mass airflow sensor if putting a ram air intake in would fix the problem if not, any help would be much appreciated.

 

WHAT YEAR AND SYSTEM ARE YOU RUNNING SPEED DENSITY OR MASS AIR FLOW SYSTEM

 

Speed density or MAF?

I have the same issue, and it seemed to start in a
high humidity situation.. but I doubt that is the issue.

I refuse to believe my MAF is bad, and yours too for
that matter. They rarely fail.. Id begin by replacing
your burn-off relay/power. Then, check for any vac
leaks near your runner tubes, with carb cleaner.

Examine the MAF sensor electrical connector to
see if its intact, along with the circuit. Replace
your CTS (coolant temp sensor) and check TPS
for proper adjustment.

Also, check the air ducting for any vac leaks
near your filter, that could give a false reading.

Ive yet to resolve my problem, I have to try a few
more things.. People have said they had to burn
another prom/chip for higher maf tables just to
get the code 33 to disapear.. but, that is ridiculous!

in my situation.. the rebuild has been fine for 6000 miles.
And, it just did this at a gas station out of the blue!

I going to try to replace the electrical connector, clear
the ECM and Ill run the ***** off of it (not let it idle) in
relearn mode and hope it doesnt go into limp mode.

All else fails, ill try a new maf..but, I know something
else it the culprit! Its unlikely I need a new prom for
this non sense..

Good luck

 

I have a 1988 Trans Am GTA 5.7 tpi and I have what I believe to be the stock bosch mass air flow sensor

 

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM SEEMED IT WAS GOING TO SHUT OFF AND THE BATTERY WAS NEAR THE ORANGE LINE I CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER WAS NOT IT THEN I DISCOVERED THAT A VACUUM LINE HAD DISCONNECTED AND THAT WAS THE PROBLEM A MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT MY MAF WAS MEST UP BUT IT WAS REALLY A SIMPLE VACUUM HOSE

 

Yea, I have the stock unit as well..

Is there a way to see if the MAF is operating it's burnoff
capability? Like, to see if it heats and glows up at the end
of a run?

Ill keep you posted on anything that might cure my
problem, you describe your problem much like mine.

Drivable in the beggining, then gradually worsens with
temperate/speed.. with the code 33 lit up the whole time.

Im also going to try to replace the plenum
and runner gaskets along with the EGR valve.

Sometimes the EGR valves get stuck open
and cause a big fat vacuum leak.. I did reuse
my old one during the rebuild :\

Can EGR solenoids lose the ability to hold
vacuum as well anyone? Im going to try to
remove and plug those vaccum lines and
see if that does anything.

 

Try all of the above as mentioned but if you want to get code 33 to go bye-bye burn a chip trust me!!!.....I had the same problem for years kept replacing the relay and Mass sensor and the problem would go away temperarliy and would come back like the plague....Bought Craig Moates`s chip burner and software and increased the threshold to 75gm/sec and blamo!!,gonzo!!finito !!done !!!!!!executed!! FINALLY!!!.....been a month now since I burned my own chip and havent had a problem since..do it you wont regret it

 

It's hard to believe that only a few people can share any
incite on this particular problem.. considering it's one of the
more common problems for Fbody's & Vettes..

Even more so is the success rate of which us TPI guys
found out the code 33 problem... none to be found, least
on this forum anyway.

Ive slowly, but surely, singled out everything, and Im
leaning toward the fact the MAF sensor went bad.

Given the fact the code 33 is a hard code, it wont
go away unless you fix the problem.. resetting the
ECM will only buy you time, maybe only 15 seconds..

Ill post whether or not I just wasted $200 bucks
on a MAF sensor, so you all can laugh at me.. probably
this weekend.. Ive tried everything else.

So, dont waste your time saying CTS, or burn-off relay,
MAF connector, EGR or vacuum leak or even a intake duct
leak.. Ive searched the whole car.

I refuse to believe my car needs another PROM, that's
unacceptable.. 6000 miles and it now decides to do this?

Unlikely.. something simple is going on here.

 

This code depends on the mods that you have done. I have responded to about 100 of these code 33 posts, do a search!

 

i also have the dreaded code 33 (maf high). need help!!!
manual says very difficult to diag. may need to take best guess, so i did.
installed new maf sensor/new ecm w/updated prom chip/replaced all-3 relays w/new connector/pigtail. code 33 will not go away.
the strange thing is that the engine runs smooth, only has a momentary idle surge when the light first comes on.
1986 305 tpi (f) world sr heads/mild eb cam/.030 over/19lb inj/51 psi/paxton-sn 7lbs.
code 33 has come on before and after engine mods were done.

 

Somehow this post does not help my confidence any