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Roller Rockers

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Old Jan 22, 2001 | 08:04 PM
  #1  
Chris Etemadi's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 548
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From: Dallas, Texas
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.3 Gen III SBC
Transmission: 4L80E NTC 258mm Stall
Axle/Gears: Trick Chassis 9" 3.50 S-Strac
Roller Rockers

What do i need the 3/8" or 7/16" studs?? and If I got the 1.65 ratio Roller Rockers what kind of power increase would I see, and how hard would the install be? Also would I need stiffer springs??

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91 Z28 5.7l Camaro
T-56, Cross Drilled Brakes, KYB's,AFPR, 3.73 Gears, Borla Adjustable Cat Back, Hypertech Chip, Hooker Headers.
more to come....
My 91 Z28

[This message has been edited by Chris Etemadi (edited January 22, 2001).]
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Old Jan 23, 2001 | 06:48 AM
  #2  
Pat Hall's Avatar
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From: Roy,UT USA
Small blocks use the 3/8 studs. If you have the stock cam in your car, you should be able to get away with moving up to 1.6 rockers without having to change springs. If you have an aftermarket cam with higher lift than stock, you'll have to check for coil bind at the springs and retainer to guide clearance. Unless you get the Crane narrow roller rockers for centerbolt heads, you'll probably have clearance problems between the rockers and your valve covers. If your heads have the big round holes where the pushrods come through, you'll need to install screw in studs and guideplates since roller rocker don't have the self aligning tips. If you have the narrow pushrod slots in your heads, you can manage without guideplates. I'd highly recommend installing screw in studs either way since the higher lift will increase the chances of a factory press in stud pulling out at higher rpms. Unfortunately, you pretty much have to remove the heads to install screw in studs because of the metal shavings you create from drilling and tapping. If you have the narrow pushrod slots and you decide to chance running roller rockers with press in studs, the installation of the rockers is a snap. All you have to do is remove your original rocker arms and install the rollers, then adjust the valve lash and put the valve covers back on. I usually adjust the lash cold to get the valves in the ballpark and make the final adjustment with the engine running. Back the nut off until you hear the valve clicking, tighten it until the clicking stops, then a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn more.

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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
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