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removed ac box etc. have ?

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Old Jan 21, 2001 | 12:09 PM
  #1  
superiroc's Avatar
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From: state college pa
removed ac box etc. have ?

I decided to take out that black box on the firewall that holds the ac stuff, know i have a hole in the firewall and can see my heater core. Should i just make a plate and seal off that hole its about 5 inches square. i never use my ac and i needed to make room to put my digital 6 plus ignition there and it makes spark plugs alot easier to change.
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Old Jan 21, 2001 | 01:53 PM
  #2  
86Trans Am's Avatar
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From: Northwest IN
I am about ready to remove my ac, but have one last question. I plan on doing it in such a manner that i can jsut lift the whole assembly out at once, all together. But what is it in front of the radiator that i have heard you have to remove, with a quick glance last time i was home i didnt really see any of the lines or a component in front of the radiator. Whatever it is, just loosen the radiator and and pull it back enough to remove the component?

From what i've heard if you can make a plate that would be fine, some guys use the non-ac box to cover the hole, but if your going to mount your ignition right there, i would think the plate would be the best deal.



[This message has been edited by 86Trans Am (edited January 21, 2001).]
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Old Jan 21, 2001 | 03:33 PM
  #3  
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From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I ditched my a/c. If you make a plate you are going to loose the blower motor for the heat. Get the non a/c box and open the hole for the blower motor resistor pack up to fit the new style (old is rectanular and the new is triangular) Make sure to get the blower motor from the old one too (Or at least the plastic sqirrel cage) the non a/c one is smaller. This will leave plenty of room for a spark box and you can keep the heat. The condenser in front of the radiator is easy to get out without disconnecting the radiator hoses. Just remove the top support and yank it. To get rid of the compressor I took a plate and fabbed it to bolt into the cast aluminum housing. I used an idler pulley from a 2.8 camaro/fb with a serpentine belt system and bolted it thru the plate. Use washers to get the alignment and trim the aluminum housing to make it look better. Its a good time to ditch the smog pump and use the "new" belt routing scheme to make it work. Grab some twine and run it like a belt. Tie it up and go to the parts store to get a belt smaller than the twine loop. It might take 2 trips to get it right but the only thing you can't get from the pullit yard is the plate and the belt. Cheap and effective.

I was assuming you had a sepentine setup. If you don't it's alot easier than this!!!


[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited January 21, 2001).]
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Old Jan 21, 2001 | 05:11 PM
  #4  
superiroc's Avatar
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From: state college pa
thanks joel, so i should just go to a junkyard and get the box out of a non ac car cause i do want my heat still. is this motor going to be inside the non ac box at the junkyard? I put my super coil and rpm window box on thw wall looks nice and clean. I made a plate and put my digital6 plus ignition by the shock tower.
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Old Jan 22, 2001 | 08:16 PM
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FSTFBDY's Avatar
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
You are gona have a hard time finding one in a junk yard unless you have lots of 3rdgens around there in the jard. You can call CAMARO HEVAN at 1-800-CAMARO-1 and get the complete NON-AC setup for $140

------------------
Chris
1992 25th Anniv Z28 W/383 Stroker
536 RWHP 569 FT LBS
(chassis dynoed at Ramsies Perf.) www.go.to/TPI383


[This message has been edited by TPl383 (edited January 22, 2001).]
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Old Jan 23, 2001 | 11:25 AM
  #6  
ws6transam's Avatar
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From: Haslett, MI
Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
I did this conversion as well. I bought a non A/C box from Camaro Heaven, as well as a non A/C blower motor. They come separate. Boy, does it make for an easy header install!

I *did* run with a blockoff plate for a whole summer, however. I blocked off with a brass plate and some aluminum muffler tape.

------------------
Daniel Burk
http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html
'84 Trans Am WS6/L69
KB SFC, Moser axles, Torsen Diff. PST suspension, Braided stainless brake lines, Koni struts, 11-inch rear disks,Spohn Adj. torque arm,
Ported 305 heads w/1.94"intake valves, Comp Cams XE262H, Griffen alum. radiator,
Turbine Technologies 2500 stall converter, underdrive pulleys, Crane Hi-6 & more.
1.05g skidpad verified.
New best E/T! 14.039 at 100.82 MPH in 41 degree air at Stanton, Michigan.
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