the "real" way to set timing
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From: Parsippany, NJ
Car: 1991 Trans-Am "Blackbird"
Engine: 305TPI LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Hmm
the "real" way to set timing
i've done searching, i've been told so many things, been showed so many techniques... and i just don't understand it. now, i'm a crafty guy.. but is there any way someone could provide me with a very detailed thread explaining step by step, how to set your timing on a 91' LB9 305tpi?
i know you need to make sure some arrow is pointing towards your number one cylinder. and make sure some plug is disconnected, for some amount of time.
what it comes down to, i need someone to explain very detailed and very carefully how to go by it step by step. or provide me with a place online that will do so.
i know you need to make sure some arrow is pointing towards your number one cylinder. and make sure some plug is disconnected, for some amount of time.
what it comes down to, i need someone to explain very detailed and very carefully how to go by it step by step. or provide me with a place online that will do so.
Re: the "real" way to set timing
you need a timing light to set your timing as well as a distributor wrench...make one or buy one.
connect the timing light to your driver's side front most spark plug wire, with red and black wires going to the battery
disconnect the single wire connector at the passenger side firewall. it will look like a small cylindrical object when it is connected. you need to do this to stop the ecm from controlling your timing
loosen the distributor with the distributor wrench.....not loose loose...just loose enough so you can rotate it clockwise or counter-clockwise.
start the car
it helps to have two people do this next part
flash the timing light at your main pulley.....note an etched or marked line on it. also note jagged metal bracket stationary in that vicinity with numbers on it
rotate the distributor to align the little line with 6 or 8 or whatever your timing should be for that year i have no idea
tighten distributor without turning it (the difficult part...because u always end up turning it....it's very sensitive...so maybe set the timing ahead a bit so when you tighten it it ends up being right after it moves)
turn off the car
disconnect timing light
connect ecm control at passenger side firewall
turn on car, enjoy
connect the timing light to your driver's side front most spark plug wire, with red and black wires going to the battery
disconnect the single wire connector at the passenger side firewall. it will look like a small cylindrical object when it is connected. you need to do this to stop the ecm from controlling your timing
loosen the distributor with the distributor wrench.....not loose loose...just loose enough so you can rotate it clockwise or counter-clockwise.
start the car
it helps to have two people do this next part
flash the timing light at your main pulley.....note an etched or marked line on it. also note jagged metal bracket stationary in that vicinity with numbers on it
rotate the distributor to align the little line with 6 or 8 or whatever your timing should be for that year i have no idea
tighten distributor without turning it (the difficult part...because u always end up turning it....it's very sensitive...so maybe set the timing ahead a bit so when you tighten it it ends up being right after it moves)
turn off the car
disconnect timing light
connect ecm control at passenger side firewall
turn on car, enjoy
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 123
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From: Parsippany, NJ
Car: 1991 Trans-Am "Blackbird"
Engine: 305TPI LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Hmm
Re: the "real" way to set timing
do i need something on the base of my distributor pointing towards my #1 cylinder? i think where i messed up, was at the part of correctly placing and setting my distributor. and also, not disconnecting the black/beige wire.
is there a marking on the distributor that should be pointing towards #1, and what is it?
is there a marking on the distributor that should be pointing towards #1, and what is it?
Senior Member
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From: San Antonio, Tx
Car: 86 Camaro Z28/ 87 Camaro IROC Z28
Engine: 5.0L TPI LB9 / 5.0 TPI LB9 w/cam
Transmission: Built 700R4 with Transgo shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt Posi/ 2.73 10 bolt Posi
Re: the "real" way to set timing
Setting the base timing is a little different than when you remove the distributor and have to start from scratch.
When you remove the distributor, like you are talking about, you have to pull the number 1 spark plug out and stick your finger or an extension into the spark plug hole. You then have someone crank the engine over to TDC on the compression stroke, and you will hear and see the gas/vapor shoot out of the hole. If you have your finger in the hole you will feel it harder on only one of the strokes. TDC is when the hash mark on the balancer lines up with the hole in the timing pointer on the engine block.
Remember intake/exhaust stroke, you have to rotate the engine over until you get to TDC on the compression stroke. If you insert the distributor on the exhaust stroke it will be totally out of time.
Then you insert the distributor and point the rotor at plug #1, which may take some time to do, since its really easy to get it off just a little. You may have to pull out the distributor several times, because the gear tends to rotate some when you insert it.
This will ensure everything is in time.
Then you tighten down the distributor hold down bolt and see if it will run.
If it does you follow the procedure Synful talked about to set base timing.
One thing i might note:
After you set the base timing (static timing), which is usually 6 degrees BTDC, then tighten down the hold down bolt on the distributor and recheck the reading with the timing light. Tightening the hold down may advance it a little because of torque.
Turn off the car.
Plug in the EST timing connector again where the blower motor is.
Restart the engine.
If its too retarded now, and doesnt have good pickup, you can then loosen the distributor bolt again and advance the timing from there by rotating the distributor. You already set the base timing, now you are only advancing the total dynamic timing.
When you remove the distributor, like you are talking about, you have to pull the number 1 spark plug out and stick your finger or an extension into the spark plug hole. You then have someone crank the engine over to TDC on the compression stroke, and you will hear and see the gas/vapor shoot out of the hole. If you have your finger in the hole you will feel it harder on only one of the strokes. TDC is when the hash mark on the balancer lines up with the hole in the timing pointer on the engine block.
Remember intake/exhaust stroke, you have to rotate the engine over until you get to TDC on the compression stroke. If you insert the distributor on the exhaust stroke it will be totally out of time.
Then you insert the distributor and point the rotor at plug #1, which may take some time to do, since its really easy to get it off just a little. You may have to pull out the distributor several times, because the gear tends to rotate some when you insert it.
This will ensure everything is in time.
Then you tighten down the distributor hold down bolt and see if it will run.
If it does you follow the procedure Synful talked about to set base timing.
One thing i might note:
After you set the base timing (static timing), which is usually 6 degrees BTDC, then tighten down the hold down bolt on the distributor and recheck the reading with the timing light. Tightening the hold down may advance it a little because of torque.
Turn off the car.
Plug in the EST timing connector again where the blower motor is.
Restart the engine.
If its too retarded now, and doesnt have good pickup, you can then loosen the distributor bolt again and advance the timing from there by rotating the distributor. You already set the base timing, now you are only advancing the total dynamic timing.
Last edited by Lucid; Aug 12, 2007 at 04:46 AM. Reason: forgot something
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Posts: 2,118
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From: Houston, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: SuperRam 350
Transmission: Pro Built S/S TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: the "real" way to set timing
Before you plug in your timing light, I'd recommend marking the timing number groove with some paint. Just a tiny bit of paint will do. With the engine off, turn the big bolt on the front of your alternator. While turning the bolt, watch the area where you aim the timing gun at. On the crank hub you'll see a grooved line.....Try and put a small amount of white paint in that line.
Turn the alternator bolt slowly. Take a few seconds rest as it will seem like it's slipping if you turn it too fast.
With that groove painted, you'll see a nice white line pointing at the timing number (6 degrees, whatever it's set at)
As for the wire you're supposed to disconnect. It's right between the passenger side strut tower and the firewall.
Turn the alternator bolt slowly. Take a few seconds rest as it will seem like it's slipping if you turn it too fast.
With that groove painted, you'll see a nice white line pointing at the timing number (6 degrees, whatever it's set at)
As for the wire you're supposed to disconnect. It's right between the passenger side strut tower and the firewall.
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