OK, as in my previous posts below, my car has a bad stumbling problem. I have replaced:
-fuel filter
-MAP(checked it also)
-TPS(checked it also)
-checked injectors
-plugs
-wires
-cap/rotor


*Since all this stuff it still throws code 22...TPS. Its set a little higher at WOT but that shouldn't matter should it. The car also acts weird while driving on interstate. It almost acts like its stuttering on light load applications. After driving like this for awhile, cuty driving is horrible. I'm gonna put a new fuel pump in this week regardless of whether or not its bad. It needs one soon anyways (143k miles) and I figured it would be 1 less thing to worry about.


*** Could a bad ECm or one on its way out be causinbg this nonsense? TIA

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It also cuts out at high rpm's sometimes. Fuel pump? COuld O2 sensor be making it bad too? thanks

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No one??? Please help!

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Something I forgot on your other post, do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can hook up and lay on the windshield and drive around with to be sure you are getting the correct fuel pressure? Should start off around 45psi with vac line off, connect the vac line and it should drop about 10 psi.
*
Just to test that your getting enough fuel, I would run it with the vac hose off and the pressure should stay static at 45psi all the time, just as a test, and see if it still cuts out or is worse, that will maybe clue you in if it is actually a fuel problem.
If the fp doesn't stay at 45psi, then you may have a fuel problem, if the problem goes away, then you have a fuel problem.
Just some easy things to try...

 

THANKS alot man!! You guys are wonderful!! I just want to drive it again soon

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If you're still having a TPS code, check the voltage at the TPS to make sure it's .54 volts at idle, then chack to see if it gets progressively higher until WOT (a friend helps here). If not you've got a bad sensor. Should be over 4 volts at WOT. That means you obviously have voltage to the TPS. There's 3 wires; a 5 volt supply wire, a reference (return voltage)wire, and a ground. Look up the reference wire at the ECM, and check with the ignition on by back-probing. DONT cut any wires. If you splice, seal the wire with liquid electrical tape. Compare with your TPS idle reading at the sensor. Should be relatively close. If there's no voltage, the ECM isn't getting the TPS signal, which would explain your problems. If the signal is off by a considerable amount, then there's resistance. Check the ground and then make sure the reference wire isn't cut or grounded. If that all checks OK, then start looking toward the ECM; make sure it's not a wiring problem first. Make sure the terminals on the TPS connector are OK, too.

 

I had a VERY similar problem in my '91 Z and it ended up being the PROM. Actually, it the PROM was so bad that it fried the computer, so I'd get someone to check the computer and PROM out before I throw too much more money into it. I spent about $500 on fuel pump, sensors, injectors, pretty much anything and everything that it could be. Make sure you have someone check the PROM, because one of the things that I did was get a new computer, but it didn't help because the PROM was bad, then the PROM fried the new computer. So be sure to check them both out.


ken

 

Thanks! i'll try the PROM and ECM.

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KENS91-
What symptoms did you have? 5-speed? Any codes? What exactly did your car do? THANKS

BTW- How do I get my PROM or ECM checked out?

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