1. Is it possible for the knock sensor to be activated by the exhaust leak that is happening right above the sensor?

2. How do I test the sensor without the scan tool?

Any advice would be nice.


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89Iroc, 305 TPI, WC T5, 3.08 Posi, Flowtech Headers 1 1/2, Hooker Y-Pipe 2 1/2, 3 inch over the axle, Flowmaster 80, No Cat, Aluminium Driveshaft, Ported Plenum, Air Foil, MAF Screens/Fins removed, K&N, Gutted Air Boxes, AFPR @45 psi, Ram Air, Throttle Body By-pass, Bumped Timing @12, Bosch +4, MSD 8mm wires, HP Rotor, Cap and Fuel Filter, Sensi Trac rear Shocks.

 

Anything that causes a 'pulse' strong enough and close enough to the sensor will set it off. With the engine idling, tap the block next to the sensor with a hammer (tap!). You should hear the idle change momentarily, then return to normal. This signifies the sensor temporarily retarded the timing because it detected knock. In other words, it works properly. If it doesn't when you tap, you may have a bad knock sensor or ESC module.

 

BTW: dont electricute or burn yourself down there, it's very easy. A better alternative would be to go through the wheelwell or under the car and tap with a hammer and extension. Use gloves 'just in case' the extension hits the starter cable. Just be careful, and you'll be fine. It's easier than it sounds.

 

Doesn't the Knock sensor flash an SES light when it detects knock and retartds the timing?

 

Mine only did it when it was excessive, like if you're overheating and it knocks like a rock is in the combustion chamber...normal small knocks dont set off the SES light. It would set and ESC (electronic spark control) code.

[This message has been edited by dhirocz (edited May 15, 2001).]