my ecm is sending a code for high voltage signal at idle (mass air flow). the car is running rich. i've replaced the maf 2 times and it has not done anything. does anyone have any ideas to what is the problem.

 

lol i'm having the same damn problem and i have also replaced it TWICE! i need help too... have you replaced your MAF power relay and the MAF burnoff relay? if not, i would suggest doing that. i've already done that with my car and im still having problems, but hey, it could fix YOUR problem...

 

i replaced both relays but my maf burnoff relay keeps burning out.

 

maybe you got a short somewhere, check the wires...get a short tester and poke the wires in that. that could be my problem too...i should go check....

 

i put another relay in and it has not blown. code 33 is still showing. i'm going to replace the engine coolant sensor. replace the tps and iac is the only other thing that i can think of.

 

i found a couple air leaks in some dry-rotted hoses...i replaced those. It made a slight difference but the idle is still unsteady and code 33 shows when i test the check engine light. I put in a new IAC, didn't make much a difference so I put my old one back on. i adjusted my old IAC a lil shorter and that helped very little, ran like the new IAC. make sure your IAC is no more than 1-1/8 inch from the gasket part to the pintle, that could help you some. so is your car just running rich, or is it also doing other abnormal things? check your hoses, see if you have any bad ones. the ones i had go bad weres ones attached in the rear part of the engine. just a suggestion, maybe you could check these. I dont know what this part is called...as your standing on the outside of the car, looking at the engine, go to the left side in the back, right in front of the ignition coil and off to the right attached to the manifold part behind the last runner. there are some hoses that make a "T". Its like two hoses and a wire anyway...and both those hoses where dry-rotted at the places it was connected. someone told me to spray WD-40 on all the hoses while the car is running and you can find a leak because the car will "Idle Up" when you spray it on a hole. also, try adjusting your distributor timing by turning the distributor assembly. theres a way to adjust the base timing, but i dont know how to. i'll let you know if i can think of something else or if someone figures out what my problems are. good luck

 

i do have some dry rotted hoses, ill replace them tomarrow. the base timing is at 8 to 10 degrees and runs good during accelleration.

 

i think the base timing is supposed to be from 6-8 degrees...not sure if it matters how much its off though

 

the motor is bored .60 over and has a cam. i tried 6 degrees and car seems happier at 8 to 10, closer to 8, so i left it there.

 

maybe its supposed to be a lil higher cuz of the cam...maybe mine needs to be set a lil higher then lol

 

it actually used to idle normal. a piston detenated and bent an intake and exhaust valve. it took a year but i rebuilt the same motor, dropped it back in and the check engine light came on and it does not want to idle. its worst when it is cold though.

 

hmm...coolant temp sensor maybe? i dunno, thats a problem u dont mormally hear of, most ppl have problems when the car is hot, not cold. 89 models shouldnt have cold start injectors so it cant be that. not sure....

 

no cold start injector, i hope i have some time tomarrow so i can change the ect sensor.

 

dont forget about those hoses that are bad

 

How did you set the timing to closer to 8?

 

i disconnected the est connector and used a timing light