i got my new heads in S/R torkers in. i did a compression check on the cylinders, 7 have 110psi or better, 1 has 85psi so i need a short block. a good machine shop quoted me 1,060$ for a rebuild 30 over with all new pistons and all new bearings cam, rod, mains,and new finish on the crank.he is supposed to b the best.(and the car will b down 3 weeks waiting for him) i priced a new long block for 800$ from autozone with one year warrantee. but it comes with heads i dont need (iguess i could sell them later)if i could find a short block only that would b great.any suggestions? the motor should make about 300hp when i am done. also going in are 1.6 rr better cam and edelbrock headers. along with what i already done. the motor still runs strong and gets me 21 mpg with the weak cylinder!

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white/gold GTA ,leather 5.7TPI 700r4 3:27posi twin cats,3"catback,aluminum d.shaft ported plennum,afpr,8mmwires,k&Nand all other "free" mods, performance resource chip,SLP cold air intake.

 

Doerr Electric, Sterling, and Reliance Electric make very nice motors. If you want a DC motor, it's hard to beat Kollmorgen, but they are very pricey. They make an excellent AC servomotor as well, pro'lly the best you'll find anywhere.

If you want a new engine, I'd stick with a Chevrolet.

Just yankin' your chain, dude...

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

funny.... how bout what to do bout my engine???

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white/gold GTA ,leather 5.7TPI 700r4 3:27posi twin cats,3"catback,aluminum d.shaft ported plennum,afpr,8mmwires,k&Nand all other "free" mods, performance resource chip,SLP cold air intake.

 

I'd go with the machineshop, unless you're comfortable tearing down the AZ motor to make sure it's done correctly.

Now where did I put that crate ENGINE, oh, wait...GM calls them a crate MOTOR, guess it's a hybrid sorta thing

 

what would the mahine shop do that AZ wouldnt do? they both only warrantee them for a year. and if the motor/engine ****s the bed in less than that they will allways find away to blame the customer..

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white/gold GTA ,leather 5.7TPI 700r4 3:27posi twin cats,3"catback,aluminum d.shaft ported plennum,afpr,8mmwires,k&Nand all other "free" mods, performance resource chip,SLP cold air intake.

 

Whichever one you choose, check the clearances on the motor yourself, don't trust anybody else to do it, or else you will be the one pulling the motor back out later when something fails.

Warranty or no warranty.

 

Spend a little more and get a ZZ4 shortblock 12561723 ZZ Small-Block Partial Engine $1,692.01 you won't regret it.

 

Well, when you buy one from AZ, what you see is what you get. You could get a motor that's had a repaired crank, welded webs, carnk and rod mains turned .030, a block with a few sleeves in it, bored .060, etc, etc, etc...I think you get what I'm referring to.

Now some AP stores, even the discount ones, will still contract machine work out to local builders, but most buy from "motor factories".

When you go to the machineshop and talk with the place, you can tell them exactly what you want, and what you don't want. i/e I want a good crank no more than 10/10, no more than .030 on the bore, etc, etc, etc...there is a big difference, IMO.

Don't get me wrong, for a commuter, sedan driven auto, the AZ motor will probably be okay, but most of us have this urge to make the gas pedal go through the floorboard all to often, which the AZ-type motor may not respond to well with.

But, after all I've babbled about, I'll tell you the main reason I will not ever buy a rebuild from a discount AP store...I went into a Kragens in Fremont, Ca., and the display SBC they had on the stand had one head off to show off the "...crosshatched honing.." that was in the literature, so i take a look in the holes with the head off and three of the four cylinders still had about 1/2 the ridge left on them.

And this was the display motor.

Oh, the cross hatch did look good though.