Home made "ram air" problems
Home made "ram air" problems
ok so here's what i did: i completely took off the air cleaner assy. i found some mixed up parts from behind my dads shop and made a two piece tube that connected from the MAF sensor box to the right side high beam. i figured hey good idea! i just wanted something temporary to see if i noticed any difference(it looks stupid with a light missing) so i go to start the car and of course it starts but refuses to idle. i put everything back together and it works. why does it do that? too much air? the MAF house was slightly curved to the right. just wondering?? i dont fully understand the function of the MAF.
i bet it had a vacuum leak around at the MAF. thats the only reason it wouldve ran bad. the MAF works by heating a wire inside the sensor, then the passing air cools the wire and the sensor sees how much it was cooled by the air and uses a bunch of mathmatical B.S. to figure out a numerical value in volts to send to the ecm as a signal. the more the wire is cooled, the more air is flowing through the MAF, the more the voltage is sent to the computer. the computer then responds and makes the injectors put out more fuel since more air is comming into the engine. the MAF pretty much just senses how much air is going in to calculate how much fuel to use.
Member
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z (Sold)
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
I would agree that it is probably a leak around the MAF or other intake area. Also, check to make sure that you plugged the MAF back in. I have inadvertantly forgot to plug the MAF back in when I have worked on mine and it runs real bad without it properly connected. Good Luck
Matt
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irocet@hotmail.com
drive.to/Stang_Kilr
88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace, One Loud Stereo!
Matt
------------------
irocet@hotmail.com
drive.to/Stang_Kilr
88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace, One Loud Stereo!
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 735
Likes: 2
From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The other part of your diagnosis would be "did the SES light come on after your modification"?
If you had no codes then caused a major air leak, you would have set a code 44 most likely.
Also your ECM stores "learning codes" that monitor your engines history over a period of time. When you make a sudden and radical change your system doesn't really know this and is still basing settings possibly on your cars history of settings. At the very least disconnect the positive battery cable for 5 minutes to clear all codes so that it will have a fresh start on relearning the codes.
If you had no codes then caused a major air leak, you would have set a code 44 most likely.
Also your ECM stores "learning codes" that monitor your engines history over a period of time. When you make a sudden and radical change your system doesn't really know this and is still basing settings possibly on your cars history of settings. At the very least disconnect the positive battery cable for 5 minutes to clear all codes so that it will have a fresh start on relearning the codes.
That happened to my friend when he got his tranny rebuild hardcore, he got od delete at the switch of a button
if he didnt gas it a bit on start up for the first 1 week it would stall on him now it runs fine
if he didnt gas it a bit on start up for the first 1 week it would stall on him now it runs fine
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