i have a 91 formula 305 5 speed. I buying a 58mm throttle body and want to know how to get the car to run low 14's thanks for any input

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91 formula
305 tpi
342 Rear
borla cat back
white face gauges
home made cold air
tpis airfoil
crane afpr
msd 8.5 mm wires
msd cap and rotor
AC Delco Rapid Fire plugs
soon to have ported plenum and intake
We light the tires, so we can fight the fires!
Fighting the "RED DEVIL" on the southside of bethpage!

 

First off let me tell you to get rid of the 58mm and keep your 48 that will be your best bet. The guy that owned the car before me put on a 58mm on my 305 and it is complete overkill. It would even be overkill on some 350's. The only way you would use that throttle body would be with a 406. You can get headers for your car. You car do the TB coolant bypass, adj your TPS, port plenum and intake (i see that you will soon), if you have an Auto put a good cam in there since you probably have the peanut cam in it. You can get your heads ported a little. STB, SFC, lowering springs and other suspension mods will help out a lot. Wide sticky tires. Or you could just go out and put in a 350 to make it really easy for you. Those are some ideas I have others will be able to help you out more.

 

have it pulled by a 13s truck down the track.

actually there is no cheap mods in racing that will really affect your times so, well anything more than what was already said, but change your cam atleast, and the gears. and please dont use No2 its not worth it.

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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior


DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.

 

DO NOT BUY THE 58 MM TB. That thing flows like 1050 cfm, and the runners on YOUR CAR only flow about 480 cfm...... so your wasting your money.
It costs around $450 for a new 58 MM
If i were you, i would:
$130 Spohn LCA's
$75 Spohn LCA relocators
$125 Spohn Panhard Bar
$50 Supplies (Dremel) for porting Intake runners base manifold (this alone might put you in low 14 range, provided you do a good job, but there is a lot of tech articles on this, shoot you could even port the 305 heads, there is a tech article on this site on how to do it)
Use the rest for a really good tuned up: Dist.cap, rotor cap, Bosch Plugs, 9mm wires, do a throttle body bypass (tech article on this), lower thermostat, etc.

 

Look @ my sig - it probably is the cheapest
minus the tremec

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91 B4C 305 TPI - SOON TO BE 383
TREMEC 5-SP, STOCK 1-BOLT REAREAND w/342 GEARS, K&N, AIRFOIL
EDELBROCK HEADERS, DUAL CAT TO HOMEMADE Y-PIPE & 3.5" SINGLE PIPE W/ FLOWMASTER, CRANK PULLEY, MSD, FUEL PRESS REG, COWL HOOD, WELD WHEELS
14.1@ 98MPH
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OTHER RIDE
67 CAMARO - STREET CAR, BIG BLOCK, PUMP GAS
350TH w/ATI 10", 12-BOLT w/373 GEARS
10.94@124.13 ON MOTOR - ET-STREETs w/MUFFLERS

 

dude whats a 1 bolt rear end look like?

 

where did you guys have your headers done and how much did it cost. i was also thinking cam but i heard installation is a bitch and they rape you for it. I cant adjust the tps sensor because of the year. BUt i was thinking headers and high flow cats. Also what do you guys think of a 52 mm throttle body? let me know thanks guys

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91 formula
305 tpi
342 Rear
borla cat back
white face gauges
home made cold air
tpis airfoil
crane afpr
msd 8.5 mm wires
msd cap and rotor
AC Delco Rapid Fire plugs
soon to have ported plenum and intake
We light the tires, so we can fight the fires!
Fighting the "RED DEVIL" on the southside of bethpage!

 

also how do you port your runners without screwing them up

 

You really dont need any TB, but i think your TB happy, so i guess a 52 would be best.....

 

Yea unless you do some MAJOR porting you will not need the 52mm TB. I just finished reading an article in CHP that said they got 450hp out of the stock 48mm TB. But if you just NEED to get one then go for the 52mm it will be your best bet. As far as the headers you can put them in yourself. It isnt that easy but it can be done in a long weekend even if you dont know what you are doing. I have heard that companies dont like touching our car to put headers in because of all of the cr@p in the way. I would definetly get the high flow cat with the headers it is a great mod.

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"I'm not dumb, I just have an amazing command of thoroughly useless
information."
Bill Waterson creator of Calvin & Hobbes.

 

ok first off, why not nitrous? because there are so many rumors it blows your engine up? thats a load of B.S. l have over 70,000 miles on my little TPI 305 and its run through 10-11 bottles of nitrous already at a 150 HP shot, no, l havent gotten lucky, l use it wisely, and l trust it. until someone can honestly say that they used nitrous how it was reccomended to be used and it harmed their engine, I will listen, but until then, its just a bunch of rambling. In my opinion nitrous is the one most simple, most inexpencive ways to get into the 14's, in fact, you might even pass them up and dive into the 13's. other than that the trans has a little to be improved upon, 3.42-3.73 gear ( if you dont already have one) shift kit, and maybe a high perf converter. l'd also reccomend you not wasting your money on a throttle body until you do heads, cam, runners, or forcefeeding your motor air by means of a blower and most of all have fun, and if you think your motors up to it, use a little juice, it wont hurt ya

 

Man you peoples don't read signatures very well, I edit mine to allow you people to know what car I have so that I don't have to tell.

If I were you, I would go and get headers/high flow cats. Convert to only one cat and that way you get a nice y pipe, if I had to do mine again I would. Get SLP and not Edelbrock, Edelbrock is gay and has gayed me beyond gayness. Get the 1 5/8 and not the 1 3/4 because you will lose A LOT of bottom end torque. Get underdrive pulleys and since you have a nice tune-up the only thing I would recommend would be Bosch Platinum plugs. There is a tech article on this stuff https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/tpimod1.shtml . Don't worry about our cars breathing, and yes after all this stuff get a cam. Installation might be a bitch and labor will probably cost you around $500 but don't fret, you will reap huge gains and propell into the 13's. Don't forget about suspension mods too, I had a problem launching my car because of the low end torque I gained from my catback (not my headers, my headers suck). Make sure you PERFECT your porting job on your plenum, I never ported my intake (never knew I should) and it seemed like I gained some hp from it. If your using a home made ram air, unless your POSITIVE it's not restricting air flow don't use it. I think part of the reason I ran ****ty was because of me choking my intake. Oh well, that's about all the info I can tell ya, after the cam it's heads then intake and then you should be low 13's to high 12's naturally aspirated if you choose the right parts....

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1990 G92 5spd LB9 - 3.42 80,000 miles

Accel Ignition/Wires (8.8mm), Advanced Timing, TB Bypass, Ported and Gasket Matched Plenum, Synthetic Motor Oil, 160 Thermo, TPIS Airfoil, K&N Air Filters, Centerforce I Pressure Plate and Clutch, Edelbrock TES Headers, Dual Cats, Edelbrock RPM Series Catback, Homemade Ram Air

14.4 @ 94mph w/2.0622 60ft

FOR SALE! Email me for further info.

 

Firs you need to tell us where you are running now. That alone will tell us if you have the peanut cam or not. it seems the vast majority of SD 305s, 5spd or G92 or not, got the good cam. If you have the peanut cam, short or forced induction you will never get it into the low 14s w/o a miracle.
If you have the good cam you should already be solidly in the mid/high 14s. If not you are either running in bad air or you have some issues w/ tuning to work out. Beyond that, you'll want a full exhaust (if non-G92 you MUST convert to either dual cats or a single 3" set-up) and whatever intake mods you can afford, EXCEPT the TB. The stock TB is more than adequate for ANY stock headed NA car and would be a complete waste of $$$.

The plan on my LB9 is real simple. SLP 1 5/8s through dual cats and a 3" fromaster cat back. A mild cam, PROM tuning and gears should have me knocking on real low 14s/13s. W/ a vigilante i'd expect mid-high 13s all day long.
...ed

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

 

I don't think that it's impossible to run low 14's with the peanut cam. I've run a 14.40@95 in my automatic 305 with just the following. 3.42 rear, SLP catback, ported base and plenum and a few free mods.

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Jason 92Z28

 

hey mouse i wasnt saying that nitrous is totally a bad thing, but people who dont know how to use it, that is a bad thing. sounds like you understand the function of nitrous, and what is incorporates, most people slap it on, and just push the button, dumb dumb dumb.

and guys he doesnt have an automatic, just stating a fact.

and porting will help you more than some TB, and the exhaust the engine is just a big air pump let keep it free flowing on both sides and you will fly!

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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior


DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.

 

And your car is a 92 so it has the good cam. I know, every reference you have ever read says that all A4 305s got the peanut cam, but most speed density 305s seem to have gotten the good cam.
Trust me on this. Over the weekend at the NE gathering my heavy *** 2.73 vert that is basically stock was neck and neck w/ a fully port matched SLP runner set up, headered, 3.73 geared 87 305 A4 coupe. SD is great, but it isn't that great to explain such a huge difference in performance. Especially consdering i am still blowing through the stock 2.25" Y pipe and cat.

edit...thought i'd add that the aforementioned car only runs 14.88s. Running pig rich a bit back i turned 15.1, no doubt i'm faster with the little tuning i have done since then. I don't think a single peanut cam car in history has ever seen a low 15 stock, let alone a heavy 2.73 geared car.

[This message has been edited by Ed Maher (edited July 02, 2001).]

 

I can back up Ed's statements. I pulled a 93.5mph trap speed with just a Flowmaster catback and a high flow cat. NOTHING else, besides the free stuff like advances timing and TB bypass. 3600lbs at launch with 210lb driver and 1/2 tank of gas, 2.73 posi rear. The run was a 14.9... on a 2.4 60 foot. Do the math.

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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter
ported TPI setup

Built on Wednesday

 

rare- youre absolutely right, but l should hope that someone using nitrous would thouroughly research it, but youre right, some people slap it in and don't follow directions, l wasnt trying to come across as being a smart *** , but some people are totally agaisnt the whole concept of nitrous, in essence if you know what youre doing, use nitrous by all means

 

yeah i always go against nitrous on stock motors, unless the person just got the car new, and has broken it in properly, or they know their stuff well.

i am considering Nitrous, but not for a long time, that will be the stage after i get my PAXTON but till then. not for me and my nonrebuilt 350, someday someday. it all takes money.

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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior


DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.

 

LB9FORMULA91,
Whats up? Im in westbury. Try gears. I have the 3.70's in my 9-bolt, and as much as the mileage sucks, I love em.

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1980 Camaro, '88 Police 350 engine, Headers, full exhaust, completely redone, my baby!
1988 Iroc-Z L98, MSD 6a, Accel coil, K+N's, Airfoil, Coolant Bypass, Flowmaster, Gears, Late model Bose, I like the 80 better

 

Alot of people who replied gave you the expensive way of going. I would say if u wanted an inexpensive way to run under the low 14's might be to purchase dual exhaust. You might also want to consider weight reduction. That has alot to do with it. I am buying a Camaro in 1 week from today and I think I am going to modify, modify, modify! I want to take it to the Drag Strip in Ceicil County, MD and try to win some money off people! That helps pay off for mods.

 

hahaha... dual exhaust.. lol

I think not. If you want to waste money, get dual exhaust. A Borla catback flows PLENTY for your engine.

I'd say you are a set of headers away from low 14s... they should be easily attainable.

 

You said that you have a 3.42:1 rear, Borla exhaust, MSD ignition components, and AFPR, and plan on porting the plenum soon.

-Cut windows in your airbox (equipped with K&N filter
-Bypass throttlebody coolant
-Remove smog pump and use longer belt
-Adjust timing to 8* (or more)
-Gut cat(s)
-Port plenum
-Cooler thermostat
-Add throttlebody air foil
-1.6:1 self aligning roller rockers
-tubular lower control arms
-BFGoodrigh drag radials

Those mods should get you into the low low 14s or even the high 13s if you dump the clutch high enough and only cost $700 including materials. If you want spend less, then you can forgo the drag radials and control arms to save you $350, or even the roller rockers as well to save another $200.

Hope I've been helpful!

Kyle

P.S. - oh yeah...use nitrous too

 

Here you go, I ran 14.6@93 for a stagering +/- $450. Check the sig.
I forgot the AFPR.

Cam was free. Still a huge thanks to the doner.

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87 Z28 305 TPI, Auto, LT-1 cam (@.50 418/430, 194/199, LSA 111), roller timing set, 2.73, Gutted air boxes, K & N fillters, Dyno Max 3" cat back, 8.8 mm spirals, air foil, BFG Drag radials,170* Stat and TB bypass.
Old Best 15.414 @ 87.47.
new best 15.006 @ 89.55.
w/ drag radails 14.6 @ 93
“Fallen But Not Forgotten”

[This message has been edited by new87 (edited July 04, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by new87 (edited July 04, 2001).]