ok lots of my buddys are doing this now . there putting moth ***** in there tanks . they say it raises the octane. now im sure as hell not gonna stick something in my GTA thats gonna backfire on me and screw me.
so does anyone else do it ?

 

Old myth from the 40's. Don't waste you time.

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86 T/A 5.0 A4 & 2.77 gear
15.62 @ 86 mph
93 Civic 1.6L
13.5 @ 100 mph

 

i think it turns gasoline into a kerosine like fuel. maybe it raises octane a little but no substantial gains are going to be obtained from it.

 

...and if you want to see if you have enough moth ***** in the tank to raise octane to an acceptable level, just remove the cap, light a match, and hold it near the filler neck so you get really good light in there to see what's going on. You'll be able to see the contents of your fuel tank very soon now....

(I HOPE everyone knows I'm kidding, that you should NEVER use an open flame around fuel or fuel vapors, but you never know.)

The benzene in the moth ***** might actually lower octane points due to its higher volatility. The chlorine will probably start to corrode the tank and lines, but that's O.K. The parrafin base of the moth ***** will tend to plug those leaks, along with the pump, filter, regulator, injectors, etc.

Go for it! Let us know how it works out for you.

------------------
Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

If you want higher octane get it at the pump. I doubt very much that it will increase octane tolerance at all but even if it did how would you know how much of a difference it made.

Have you ever smelt moth *****?

You did? How did you get those little legs apart?

 

Don't forget to check your turn signal fluid while your putting moth ***** in the tank.

 

It works on the same theory of putting a gallon of water in your gas tank as a cheap water injection system.

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86 z28 zz4 ssm lift bars ,3.73 simesed runners and a traction deficient 13.707@101.02,on a 2.16 60 ft on 295/50/15 junk street rubber ,best MPH run 13.82@102.7,69 AMX,390 4 speed sticky tires and other stuff..12.94@102.3

 

As I understand the "theory" of moth *****, it is not so much to raise octane, but to "react" with any water that may be present in your tank.

But it is an "old myth" and how much good it really does is unproven. Personally, if adding moth ***** were good, then wouldn't every Oil Company already have it as an additive?

 

I hear sugar works better

 

Moth ***** usually made of napthalene. As for corrosion in your fuel system, I doubt it. It is an OLD trick, as far as adding Octane, hmm, really don't know, jury still out on this one.

Just an FYI, I have posted this before, but I will again.
Higher Octane means that the fuel burns slower. Lower octane burns faster. In an engine you want the fuel to burn on the complete downstroke of a cylendar. If you have a quick burst at the top, it is usually too soon and you get spark knock. Lower octane gas is not as efficient (worse fuel milage) and you tend to get more spark knock. Because you have a quick burst at the top, burning too fast.

When tuning an engine it is ideal to get as much advanced timing as possible. Of course there are limits, but the more Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) without Spark knock is the best. If you run 93 Octane, Since you have slower burning fuel means that you can advance your timing more than if you have 86 octane, because it BURNS SLOWER.

For a long time they were using LEAD to increase Octane. Since lead is harmful to our environment, AND it severely ruins Fuel injected cars with an O2 sensor, this method is OUT.

As for adding a chemical such as Napthaline (moth *****) into the system is creating an unknown variable. I would not be concerned with the fuel system per se, as much as the O2 sensor. sounds risky, I wouldn't recommend it.
Want higher octane? Get some Octane booster/Fuel injector cleaner. Although I have herd rumors of that damaging O2 sensors too.




------------------
87 Formula Yellow/Black
Engine & Transmission
.040 over 5.0 converted to TPI, 9.5:1 Compression, SLP Cam Dur 206/212, Lift 480/487, Cent Line 112, SLP headers, SLP cat-back exhaust, K&N Airfilter, Modified Stock cold air intake, Ported & polished Stock TPI intake, Holley Adjustable Fuel Press regulator, AC Rapidfire Spark Plugs.
Gil Younger (no yo-yo) Shift Kit, Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.73 Posi gear
Suspension & Brakes:
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels, KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts, Hotchkis strut tower brace, South side machine frame connectors, Custom reinforced control arms and pan hard bar.
Interior:
Custom Leather interior, CUSTOM Yellow Gauge Faces, Kenwood Receiver, Pioneer Speakers, Kicker Substations, Kenwood 10 Disk Changer, Pioneer Amp.

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)

83 Camaro (Parts)
83 T/A (parts)

http://www.3rdgenformula.com

 

Just don't use 15 bottles of octane booster/fuel injector cleaner at one time, like a dude with a Stang did one time. I think he siezed his engine after the teflon of the Fuel Injector Cleaner wore off the oil coating on the cylinder walls.

 

If you want to raise your octane for cheap go buy some tolulene at the local paint store and mix a couple gallons of that with a full tank of go-juice. I think there is a recipe for it at one of the turbo-buick sites. Do a search for "octane booster" and you should find it.
bsa

 

Damn! And here I thought they were made of paradichlorobenzine. My bad. Maybe I just get "funky" moth *****...

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

just another joke
why do moths fly every where ????
ever see the size of moth ***** ...to hard to walk !

 

Xylene or Toluene both works, but don't go more than 10-20%..... Thats what is actually in race gas, you can even smell it...


------------------
ZaphodB a.k.a Carl Andersson - zaphodb@faxancruisers.org
'89 Camaro IROC-Z 5.7L TPI - Mods under construction :-)
Custom ARAP Chip Under Development/180 t-stat, Edelbrock TES Headers,
SLP Airfoil, K&N Filters, Accel 8mm wires, Relocated MAT, AFPR @ 45 PSI

 

Somthing else you can do is: change your muffler berrings! Watch your macanic though, they can have a tendency to rip you off.

 

Yeah a Local guy did a Two dyno runs one on pure 91 octane, another with 1 gallon of toulene in the tank, well mixed.

First run he got signifigant spark knock, on the second run he did not.

the toulene obviously icreased detonation resistance, but interestingly enough in those areas where he did not have spark knock before, the toulene slightly reduced power ouput.

this was on a bolt on LT1

And be careful, Inhaling toulene fumes will make you very High. ask me how i know

 

Just wanted to lend some corrections to the info that okfoz posted. He has some stuff a little confused, so maybe this will help everybody.

He got the octane part right. High octane burns slower than low octane. However, that makes low octane fuel more efficient. Follow along and you will see why.
Ideally you want as little spark advance as possible in an engine (also going against what okfox said) This is because the more you advance the timing, the more that the piston is fighting the burning fuel/air charge on the way up. That is pure inefficiency right there. The reason you fire spark plugs on the way up rather than at TDC is because it takes some time for the burn to completely start. Optimal spark advance is going to be the number that gives you peak cylinder pressure at TDC. Even that is a simplification, actually you want the cylinder pressure to stay as high as possible for the entire powerstroke.
You match the octane of your fuel with with compression ratio and thermal efficiency properties of your engine. High compression ratios give you more pressure on the power stroke, but that also gives you a lot more heat, which leads to detonation. So you run a slower burning fuel (higher octane) to counteract that tendency.

Enough esoteric science, here's why i needed to issue a correction. Say you have a low compression engine. You're not going to make more power by running as high octane, nor will you make more power by running as much advance as you can get without knock. As i said way above, all high octane and more spark advance does is make the piston fight the burning fuel charge for a longer period of time on the upstroke. Much better to have the fuel ignite as quickly as possible, as close to TDC as possible. The 'quickly' part is the tricky part, too quick and you lose control and get knock.

Octane, spark advance, dynamic and static compression ratios are all very complex and interrelated subjects. But don't lose sight of the basics of what you want your engine to do. Which is provide as much cylinder pressure on the power stroke, with as little parasitic loss from friction, heat exchange and compression as possible. There are so many factors that play into this that nothing can be stated as a rule, hell i didn;t even mention the actual air fuel ratio, or spark plug location, or mixture movement within the cylinder. You ever wonder why everyone touts combustion chamber designs these days? Modern cylinde rheads are designed to promote a lot of turbulence and swirl within the compressing cylinder, which gives you a faster and more controled burn, so you can run less spark advance which gives you more power.

 

Yeah, its just another term. paradichlorobenzine is the IUPAC naming convention, naphteline is just another way of saying it, where as IUPAC describes the actual orientation of the chlorine atoms around the carbon chain. I think para means opposite sided? Theres also ortho and some other crap, but now I'm just rambling :lala:

 

If 87 octane gas is more effecient why do I (and others) see improved mileage with 93 octane gas. No other changes to engine tune, just change to higher octane gas and the mpg's go up. Seen it in 73 Laguna (16 on highway with 89 octane and 19 on highway with 93 octance) and my wife's 82 Olds 98 (89 octane =17 mpg on highway, 93 octane = 20. 5 mpg on highway). Can;t say about the 86 IROC, it always gets 93 octane.

 

As some areas of the country are heading into winter remember its time to let the summer air out of your tires and replace it with winter air. HTH, Bob

 

Hey, if u guys get around to a auto parts store, pick me up a water pump for a 67 VW bug... thanks!

 

LOL

 

Z's r Best, the reason you're seeing improved mileage with 93 octane gas is because the engine must be tuned for 93 octane gas. If you drop to 87 octane without retuning the engine the spark is now too far advanced, and you will be running into some detonation problems, thus decreasing efficiency.

To combat this you should be able to retard your timing a little bit so that you no longer have detonation problems, and still achieve the same mileage as you get with the 93 octane.


Also, for those going to the parts store. Can you pick me up a distributor for a 98 Trans Am too? Thanks.

 

I am yet to see how putting napthalene in gasoline raises its anti-knock capabilities. just run that octane booster ****, you'd have better luck with that snake oil than you would with moth *****...while you're there, I need some pushrods for my DOHC honda too.

 

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html

and I need a new heater core and break pads for my 83vette. Its just sitting cuz I cant find any pads for it

 

Bet it is hard to find any parts for an 83 vette.

 

not as hard as it is to find quality piston rings for my RX7..




i used to work at a parts store... every friday we would be calledby or call other parts stores and ask for nonexistant parts.