i just rebuilt my 91 tpi 305 motor in my camaro .. and added ..

summit racing vortec heads .. 1.94 intake .. 1.5 exhuast .. 170cc .. 67cc
edelbrock vortec tpi intake manifold
msd distributor cap / rotor
taylor 8 mm wires
comp cam 08-501-8 (212/218 .. 264/269 .. and around .480/.490 lift)
flat top aluminum pistons (5cc)
hooker 2055 headers / y pipe
bbk adjustable fuel regulator ..

now i started it and drove it down the street .. drove like crap .. no power

checked the timing .. and it was 0 .. so i set it to 6 btdc
idles good now .. but still drives kinda sluggish / dont think all the power is there ..

i dont think i got all the air out of the coolant system b/c the thermostat didnt open yet ..

sounds friggen amazing though ..

but what could cause this "sluggishness" ..

the fuel pressure is stock right now

would it be not getting enough fuel / or do i need to set a different timing

what fuel pressure should i set it at / what degree timing for the mods i have ..

i havent tuned it yet .. and probably wont for a little while .. but the comp cam guy said the cam will work fine without a tune at first ..

thanks

adrian

oh and the check engine light came on .. so ill go get that code real quick

edit: theres no check engine light any more .. just shows 12

 

i assume auto right? install a 3000 stall converter. that's one thing i regret not getting when i did all my mods and cam. i threw all kinds of **** at that car and still ran close to stock times. it did great on the big end but no ***** on bottom. also a tune might help but i think the computer will learn. fuel pressure should be about 10psi above normal i think. injectors will help also. like some svo 24's. i wanna say the turbo dodge's injectors are about 27lber's like 85-87 turbo 1 2.2 they look the same as my iroc's did so you might hit up a salvage yard. they are easy as hell to pull.

 

its a 5 speed ..

but i thought about it and figured that if im moving more air .. then i need more fuel ..

so ill turn it up 10 psi and see how it goes ..

thanks

 

I am kind of interested in this, have you figured anything out yet? Did turning the FP up help any? And did you check your catylitic converter or put headers on?

 

havent figured out anything yet ..

ive raised the fuel pressure to 46 psi .. and its still the same ..

i dont have a catalytic converter .. and i got hooker 2055 headers ..

its throwing a 43 code .. but all my sensors/ distributor/ ign module /ecm / etc are all new .. the motor is brand new / mildly built ..

it ran perfectly for 4 days or so .. then just gave out when i was backing it out of the garage one day ..

checked the compression .. its at 150 ..

so im still trying different things .. right now im thinking i got the wrong knock sensor ..

 

ok .. found that the "new" knock sensor was the wrong one ..

it was ohming WAY too high ..

so i put the stock one back in and the code went away ...

but it wont start

i dont think its getting spark

would this be b/c ive been trying to start it all day .. battery isnt fully charged ..

thanks,

adrian

 

try swapping back in your old ecm aswell

 

ummm ... thats a problem

its probably halfway to china to get rebuilt .. lol ..

i think this new one is fine .. its the same one .. a 7730 .. and my tach is flicking around now .. it didnt move with the last one .. whether that means anything or not ..

 

so you are getting 0 fire? id pull the ignition control module out and take it up to the parts store they can check it for you. how do the plugs look?

 

got it sorted now ..

i went and checked everything .. module .. put a new ecm in .. the alternartor is good ..

found out yesterday the e3 spark plugs are done once there dirty b/c you cant get in there to clean them ..

 

ewww why use e3's on your car? some nice a/c delco rapid fires will do you plenty good. if not available autolites and ngks are up next.

 

yea .. i learned my lesson .. ive used e3's on every car ive had in the last few months and they have worked AWSOME

but then again .. those were all 4 cyl.

so i guess they cant handle the power of a v8 ... or a chevy .. hahhahah ..

i learned my lesson .. $8 a pop doesnt mean $hit b/c a set of $2.99 does a better job ..

 

Sorry for my ignorance, but what is an E3 spark plug?

 

its the brand ..

E3 .. basically its a three prong spark plug ..

i think there fairly new b/c you arent the first to ask ..

 

So the car is running decent now?

 

dont know yet .. but my answer will be yes ..

havent got around to putting my new spark plugs in because ive been fitting this digital gauge cluster i got yesterday ..

its taking a while .. and i just figured out that nordskog forgot a wire on the board .. .. so i gotta call there tech support and find out where i need to solder it too

 

I'd solder it to the outside of the postage paid, self addressed, shipping carton they would be sending me to return it to them in.
Not cuz it sux or anything, but you paid good money for it, and want a quality product. They should be willing to dance for you a little, being as how it's either "dance, or refund your money", so the competition can get it.

 

thats the problem .. there is NO competition ..

plus its nothing for me to quickly solder a wire on .. especially when i have allready put almost 3 hours of grinding, clearancing, fitting, and gluing it in to the cluster "cradle" .. it looks really damn good and i dont feel like doing it again ..

also .. ive waited 3 months for this thing who knows how long it would be before i would get another one .. and i need the car for college ASAP ..

now if there was another "competition" cluster that was readily available that is exactly what i would be doing ..

but im sure they will come through and email me a diagram or picture on where to solder a wire real quick ..

i paid $462 w/ shipping .. and its a 91/92 cluster which isnt made any more by chevy (which would break anyways) .. and only nordskog makes a digital cluster that i could find ..