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Installing Walbro pump...???

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Old Jul 9, 2001 | 09:50 PM
  #1  
Steve10's Avatar
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From: Rockdale, TX USA
Installing Walbro pump...???

I've got my tank out and the new Walbro 255 mounted. For you guys that have done this swap, did you leave off the filter sock that fits on the end of the pump? It seems like something that could end up falling off and I never want to have to pull this tank again. There is another screen in the intake of the pump...seems like overkill. Opinions??


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'87 Formula WS6 - ZZ4 TPI, ported heads, LT4 hot cam, 1.6RR, SLP runners, Accel lower, ported plenum, Edelbrock 58mm TB, pulleys, SLP cold air, headers and full exhaust, Koni yellows.
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Old Jul 10, 2001 | 01:19 AM
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
I would definitely use the sock. There's crap always floating around in the tank and the sock will keep from sucking in something that will destroy your pump or anything upstream the fuel system. Plus the sock is one of those things that never gets changed so it's always a good idea to change it whenever you drop your tank.

I wouldn't worry about the sock falling off either. Once it's on there, it's on for good. One thing I'd do if you haven't yet is to remove that rubber pulsator that goes between the pump and hard line and just use the short piece of rubber hose instead.

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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
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Old Jul 10, 2001 | 07:54 AM
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From: Rockdale, TX USA
Good advice...after removing the old sock from the other pump I now see what you mean by "once it's on, it's on for good." I did remove the pulsator and replace it with the hose. Now if I can just maneuver the tank back into place. If it goes back like it came off, I'm in for a wrestling match.
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 09:43 AM
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From: Carrollton, TX, USA
Car: 1992 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-56
I am completely DREADING switching fuel pumps when i do the TPI switch in a couple of months...anyone have any suggestions for taking the exhaust off that is welded so that I can still reuse it?

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1992 Teal Camaro RS
T-Tops
305 TBI V8
Open air element
3" Flowmaster Exhaust System w/Quad Tips
Aiwa CD/Mp3 player
10 Disc CD Changer
Rockford Fosgate Speakers
SLP Headers Coming
Dynomax High Flow Cat Coming
More to come.
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 11:06 AM
  #5  
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From: Rockdale, TX USA
Just got mine back together last night. One thing about it, after this, anything else I do to the car has got to be easier. It was every bit a PITA as everyone said...especially wrestling the tank out once everything was loose and clear.

My exhaust clamps together over and in front of the axle. I was able to unclamp there and unbolt both muffler hangers and remove the whole back section. If you could cut it in the same area and have the end opened up at a shop you could clamp it when you re-install.

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'87 Formula WS6 - ZZ4 TPI, ported heads, LT4 hot cam, 1.6RR, SLP runners, Accel lower, ported plenum, Edelbrock 58mm TB, pulleys, SLP cold air, headers and full exhaust, Koni yellows.
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Old Jul 14, 2001 | 08:25 AM
  #6  
IROCZZ3's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 1999
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mult68:
anyone have any suggestions for taking the exhaust off that is welded so that I can still reuse it?

</font>
Since the rearend must be lowered as far down as possible, the shocks and swaybar ends will be disconnected and the panhard rod, springs and rear wheels will be removed. Simply unbolt the exhaust at the cat and at the muffler hangars and the whole exhaust can be moved over to the right and out of the way. HTHs.
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