I'm a proud owner off a 87 GTA l98 car . I live in Norway btw , where you have to pay 25-30000$ for a good L98 GTA . Over here this car is actually a exotic car . The car look's really good , feels really good , but the the L98 just feels to sloppy! The car also has 140.000 miles on the meter , so i reckon it could need a overhaul . I,m planning a Budget build , and would be happy to hear what you have to say about this setup.

Port out stock base , port plenum . aftermarket runners , mild porting of the stock heads , portmatch what i can partmatch , zz4 camshaft , removing AIR and EGR , CAI , flowmaster cat back , hooker shorty's and y pipe, removing cat , TB, bypass , removing AC , Tb airfoil and a tune up .

Would somebody dare to guess what this setup would give me at the wheels ? It's a A4 and 3,27 gears BTW . Are there more cheap mods you can suggest to me ? Or some MUST have things out there ? Does anybody have å bin for a similar setup btw ? Hope my bad English didn't permanently damage your eyes Hoping for som informative reply's from you guy's and thank's for your time.

Øivind

 

With 140K miles, I would do a compression test to verify the integrity of the lower end, before putting a lot of effort into the upper end of the motor. My '91 L98, with stock (iron) heads, ZZ4 cam, SLP runners, Edelbrock intake base & TES headers, etc, made 240rwhp through a 700R4, and was running a little lean in the upper RPM range. Could have been a little more power with a good tune. -Bill

 

Forgot to mention . like i said . it's Budget . so the plan was a Engine rebuild kit . stock rings and bearings , and just clean up everything and a hone . 240rwhp . Was hoping it could make a 270-280 at the wheels . to much to ask from å budget build ?

 

If you can bump the compression up a little, and get it tuned well, 270 might be possible. Lots of variables involved. -Bill

 

hmm. any idea what typical stock rwhp is on a 87 l98 car in ok shape ? in my last reply i said stock rings and bearings , of course that shold say stock ring and bearing size . Are a summit rebuild kit "non piston" a ok way to go ? Was planning on doing the work myself , including tuning , or at least try to tune myself . As for the injectors , you think they perform ok after 140k miles or is a swap a smart thing to do ?


BTW. picture of the car:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...b&id=614171212

Beuty ?

 

nice car man

 

140,000 miles??? That's just getting broken in, LOL. I replaced my injectors at right around your mileage. I had one short out so I replaced mine with #24 Accels. I know a lot of people have had problems with them but they worked pretty well for me.

 

start thinking about some subframe connectors!!!!!!!

 

port the base all the way thru the best you can, and then siamese the base. you should look into upgrading runners but i dont know how available parts are gonna be for you over there.

i'd go alot bigger on the cam. ZZ4 cam is like stock with more lift. An LT4 hotcam isnt the best choice, but you can get it for cheap and it will make near 270whp on ported/siamesed stock stuff.


I made 254 with stock L98 stuff, tune, and holley stealth ram intake. with a slightly bigger cam i'm sure i could have gotten 270-280whp with ease. This was on a 158K miles motor with stock heads/stock cam.

cam tho will need tuned

 

The plan was SLP runners and siamese to plenum .Can't find part over here , so i'm gonna shop parts from US and get them sent over . going to be pretty expensive ! shipping in US + shipping to Norway + shipping to my hometown + 25% duty . Subframe connectors are going to be homemade perfect fit and inexpensive . as for the HOT cam .. im trying not to ruin my MPG . regular gas (95 octane) cost 10$ a gallon over here ! everything in this contry is expensive !! and in the summer this is my daily driver .



alpine247 ------>

 

gotta pay to play. that cam will make the power you want and will definately lose mileage, but if tuned properly it shouldnt be too bad.

else try something alittle more mild like the comp cams 212/218. 501 cam its commonly called. With the heads shimmed up to handle the lift, it should get you near 270whp with fully siamesed TPI with slp runners. I say should cuz it depends on how well ported the base is, and how good shape the motor is.

Like i said, my motor was well maintained and i put down 254 with a lean tune. i think i had 260 with tweaking. 270 would easily be a mild cam swap like the 501 or slightly larger 218/224 duration comp 502 grind.

 

i could be wrong but if you change the cam and elemate the egr and air setup and all the other modifacations you will problity have to take up your own computer programming, i would thank, if im wrong please somebody correct me this is a question i have been wondering myself that why i havent done any extensive modifications to my 87 gta, but from my experence any time you change limits or factors that change or affect the programing of the car computer it will through a code which puts the car into loop mode and you talk about gas milage that will affect it a lot you could problity get away with porting and polishing and changing the tpi runners but when you swap cams i believe you have to change the comp program and i don't believe porting and polishing is gonna give you 50 hp

 

yep your right, major mods done to the car like cam and head work needs to be addressed in the computer for best performance, both max driveablity/power and best fuel mileage

 

thanks for the confirm

 

As for the cam , the comp 501 looks good , but expensive ! a zz4 goes for around 80$ ? just downloaded the TunerPro RT . and planning to get the hardware and do the tuning myself , or as i said . TRY .

Another question !

OK or a waste of money---> http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Øivind

 

that kit doesn't look too bad, but before ordering I'd suggest tearing your engine down and taking some measurements and make sure everything is ok first. By that I mean make sure the bores are in good enough shape to where you can just run a hone down em without having to bore it. Also mic the rod and main bearing journals and make sure you don't need to have the crank turned.. Also check your pistons for signs of wear.. If everything is in good shape then you should be able to get away with that.. I understand it's a budget build and things are quite expensive in your circumstance, if I were you thats probably the way I'd go also, but like I said tear down and inspect before ordering, I can only imagine how much work it would be to have to make a return!
Edit: That ad is actually really confusing, it say's it's a good kit for you if you don't need an oil pump or cam bearings, however both are listed as included..

 

A teardown and inspection are the first thing on the schedule . The plan was to order everything at the same time , and get it shipped from the us as one package. and fabricate whatever i can fabricate myself . it's going to be a big package . Engine parts , chassis & suspension parts , Audio parts and more . And if i can find it !!!! new cones and spring for my 9 bolt
89RsPower! : confusing ad , i didn't actually notice it before you said it

Øivind

 

personally I'd call summit and have them clarify what exactly is included in that kit.. defently tear down before ordering anything.. sounds like you have a solid plan, good luck with the differential parts. Maybe try posting on the trans and driveline board and see if anyone can point you in the right direction over there, oh and NICE car! By the way your english is fine, if you didn't say that your not a native english speaker I wouldn't have guessed it by your writing.. it's better than a lot of other peoples on this board that speak it everyday.