ok i know a higher idle during warm-up is normal but i mean 2250->2500 revs and its 85 degrees out. this goes on for about 5 min until the motor finally settles down. now if it was coolant temp based how come the engine is over 220 according to the temp gauge in the car and the fans are on thermastat is open.

i know it has to be engine management unit based but what can i do to correct it?



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89 IROC-Z L98

 

bump

 

That is not normal at all. You need to che4ck the IAC for proper operation. Here's how you do it. With the key in the on position (engine not running) look down below, and to the right of the steering wheel. You should see a little black cover measuring approx 4" X 1". Pry it off with a flat head screw driver. This will reveal the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link)connector which provides us a way of interfacing with the computer and getting it to show us trouble codes as well as control other functions. Take a paper clip and bend it in half. Stick on end in the top right terminal and the other end in the terminal next to it. The check engine light should start flashing. It will flash once, pause, twice, longer pause and then repeat this two more times. It will then begin flashing codes. For example a code 33 wilb be displayed as flash, pause, flash, pause, flash....longer pause....flash, pause, flash, pause, flash. If there are no trouble codes it will flash code twelve three more times. Verify that ther are no codes. If there is we will deal with that later.
Next, you will need to check to see if the IAC is operating or if it is stuck open or stuck closed. Go put you ear up to the IAC (passenger side of the throttle body, has four wire connector attached to it). You should hear a humming/clicking sound from it. This noise is the ECM opening the IAC all the way (160 counts). Now unplug the 4 wire connector. It will stop humming. Now start the car. If the idle comes back down then you have a problem with the IAC. You also have a problem if you cannot hear the IAC opening. Post back here what you get.
BTW, make sure you remove the paper clip from the ALDL before you start the car.
Oh, yeah. When the IAC is functioning correctly there should only be about a 100 RPM difference from when the connector is plugged and when you have opened the valve and unplugged the connector.
bsa

[This message has been edited by irocbsa (edited August 22, 2001).]

 

thanks for the info, actually i had already been checking the codes and none for the iac at the time or at present, but i did/do have a O2 sensor code and code 33 for the MAF.

now heres the odd part i just replaced the O2 when it popped up on monday so thats done but the code still pops up and the code 33/34 had gone away for 3 days until today when i ran the ac again. the codes seem to be popping up only when i am running the ac and cruising, like on the highway. any ideas?

as for the iac i actually pulled it out of the car today and cleaned it and reset it at the same time. wish i had checked to make sure it was working right 1st though, DOH. i will double check everything and let you know if it has helped any and if the iac is working correctly. then i get to move on to seeing if the code 13&33 are going to keep coming back everytime i run my ac.

thanks again.

 

wow, irocbsa check ur post #. 666, at least if u don't post anything until u read this.


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88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass

 

Whoa, that was weird!!! Its changed by now but I saw it. Step away from this topic, very slowly!!!!!!

Turtle, you might want to check your MAF relays. They may be on the fritz. The IAC won't throw a code when its gone out. That's why you didn't see one!! Don't you just love that!!??!?!?
bsa