Another MAF question
Another MAF question
I got a MAF from my freind to replace the one in my car (89 305 TPI) thought it was bad, turns out that I had a corroded connector. my freind cleaned it an it works fine now. The question I have is, when I bought the car the previous owner removed the screens on the MAF. The one I got from my freind has a broken elemnt wire but the screens are intact, I want to swap the guts so I have a good element with a screened housing. But I cant get it apart. I removed the 4 screws from the bottom, but it feels like it is still held in place by something. (im experimenting on the bad one first) does anyone know how to get these apart so I can make my MAF a screened unit again?
Bombero,
If you look at the electronics package, there is a cover that is sealed in place with silicone sealant. Carefully cut a line in this sealant bead and lift the cover straight off. There are additional screws under this cover, through the circuit board. Once all the screws are removed, the entire sensing element and sampling tube will lift out of the sensor body. At that point, you can possibly distort the sensor body enough to remove the screens and their mounting rings.
Once you have the screen rings out, you'll have to do the same thing to the "good" MAF to try to install them. When you're done, the screens may be pretty loose, and the entire process may not have the expected result.
I've been throught the entire MAF sensor, since I replaced the failed hot wire once, just to see what was involved. It is definitely not worth it unless you are set up to do it in mass production, and have a source for the platinum wire. As I recall, it cost me about $30.00 for a 10" piece of the wire from a wholesale source.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
If you look at the electronics package, there is a cover that is sealed in place with silicone sealant. Carefully cut a line in this sealant bead and lift the cover straight off. There are additional screws under this cover, through the circuit board. Once all the screws are removed, the entire sensing element and sampling tube will lift out of the sensor body. At that point, you can possibly distort the sensor body enough to remove the screens and their mounting rings.
Once you have the screen rings out, you'll have to do the same thing to the "good" MAF to try to install them. When you're done, the screens may be pretty loose, and the entire process may not have the expected result.
I've been throught the entire MAF sensor, since I replaced the failed hot wire once, just to see what was involved. It is definitely not worth it unless you are set up to do it in mass production, and have a source for the platinum wire. As I recall, it cost me about $30.00 for a 10" piece of the wire from a wholesale source.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
BTW - I used plain white bathtub sealant on the cover when I reassembled it, but it doesn't matter as long as you provide a good seal:
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
OK, finally got the bad one apart, there is now way im going to mess with the good one. I will mess it up for sure. there is too much twising, cutting and forcing to be playing around that delicate little wire. Ill just deal with what I have until it breaks for real, and then replace it with a new one. Thanx
hey bomb...you could take the screens and glue them in place with some epoxy on your good working unit. cut thr ring to get the screen out...destroy the whole thing...just dont mees up the screens and a couple of dabs of epoxy and you should be good to go
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/gdm
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87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake slp 1 3/4 headers accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/gdm
------------------
87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake slp 1 3/4 headers accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!
Ok, I did it, I got the screens off the bad unit and installed them on the good one. I found that if you take a pair of pliers and lightly wiggle the ring around the ends that it will free itself. I did this to both units and just used crazy glue to glue the screens and the end rings back in place. its as good as new. No codes and the car is finally working fine, Thanx all for the info.....Bombero
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