CODE 43 ESC?? WON'T GO AWAY
08-28-2001, 12:49 PM
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CODE 43 ESC?? WON'T GO AWAY
Awhile back I put in a new knock and heated 02 sensor.Every since I get code 43.I took the sensor out put the tape on like some of you suggested,torqued it to what you told me.STILL THERE.It also seems to take a bit longer to start.And is running rich plugs are black.I can programm the injector flow rate to lean it out a bit.But it didn't seem to be running this rich before the new sensor.and it use to idle nice but has gotten pretty rough.(maybe my plugs are fouled)It just stumbles and fells on it's face if you try to drive,won't rev very quick or high.any ideas would be great.Mod are in sig.injector flow rate is set at 25.8 and fuel pressure I believe is at like 47
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1991 1LE Z28 355cu 5SPD (ORIGINALLY 305 BEST E.T. 14.186@99.86mph)NO PASSES ON 355 YET.MINI RAM INTAKE,AFR 190 HEADS,10.23:1cr 24# SVO INJECTORS,BBK 52mmTB,AFPR
FULL ROLLER MOTOR,1.6 rockers MSD 6AL
AUTOMETER A/F GAGUE MARCH PULLEYS,HEDDMEN HEADERS 3IN EXH NO CATS FLOWMASTER,POWER TRAX NO-SLIP LOCKER,3:42 GEARS,LAKEWOOD LOWER CONTROL ARMS HOTCHIKS STRUTTOWER BRACE,COMPETTION ENG.SUBFRAME CONNECTORS
MALLORY TACH W/SHIFT LITE
BLACK, TINTED WINDOWS, TAIL LIGHT COVERS BIG BLOCK COWL INDUCTION HOOD,SHAVED DOOR HANDLES
67RS 327cu 92K ORIG MILES.NEWER GM HEADS HEADERS,650 HOLLEY CARB,CAM, 350 TURBO TRANS W/SHIFT KIT&COOLER 12 BOLT POSI 3.73'S MUTLILEAF SPRINGS
NEW VINYLROOF&CARPET, COWL HOOD,HIDE AWAY HEAD LITES,
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1991 1LE Z28 355cu 5SPD (ORIGINALLY 305 BEST E.T. 14.186@99.86mph)NO PASSES ON 355 YET.MINI RAM INTAKE,AFR 190 HEADS,10.23:1cr 24# SVO INJECTORS,BBK 52mmTB,AFPR
FULL ROLLER MOTOR,1.6 rockers MSD 6AL
AUTOMETER A/F GAGUE MARCH PULLEYS,HEDDMEN HEADERS 3IN EXH NO CATS FLOWMASTER,POWER TRAX NO-SLIP LOCKER,3:42 GEARS,LAKEWOOD LOWER CONTROL ARMS HOTCHIKS STRUTTOWER BRACE,COMPETTION ENG.SUBFRAME CONNECTORS
MALLORY TACH W/SHIFT LITE
BLACK, TINTED WINDOWS, TAIL LIGHT COVERS BIG BLOCK COWL INDUCTION HOOD,SHAVED DOOR HANDLES
67RS 327cu 92K ORIG MILES.NEWER GM HEADS HEADERS,650 HOLLEY CARB,CAM, 350 TURBO TRANS W/SHIFT KIT&COOLER 12 BOLT POSI 3.73'S MUTLILEAF SPRINGS
NEW VINYLROOF&CARPET, COWL HOOD,HIDE AWAY HEAD LITES,
08-28-2001, 03:42 PM
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I was having the same problem with my car after I installed a set of 30lb svo injectors and it had nothing to do with what I did.
Check the wires to your distributer for any signs of extensive wear or burns, look at the white wire that goes to the tach from the back of your distributer, check the spark control module in your distrubuter and replace it using alot of dialectric grease to keep it from burning. Check the coil wires. Last and hopefully least replace the ECM. I'll bet its the control module in the distributer though. Good luck and email me if you have any problems because I just went through the same thing for quite awhile.
Check the wires to your distributer for any signs of extensive wear or burns, look at the white wire that goes to the tach from the back of your distributer, check the spark control module in your distrubuter and replace it using alot of dialectric grease to keep it from burning. Check the coil wires. Last and hopefully least replace the ECM. I'll bet its the control module in the distributer though. Good luck and email me if you have any problems because I just went through the same thing for quite awhile.
08-28-2001, 04:36 PM
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Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
If it is throwing the 43 and your SES light is staying on from practically right after you start the car then something has failed. Since this happened right after you swapped knock sensors i'm going to go out on a limb and say you put in the wrong one. Whip out an ohmmeter and measure the resistance from the connector to the body of the KS. It should be 3.9k. Some other GM cars use a 100k KS, and apparently that one comes up for our cars in some computers as i had the same thing happen to me. What really sucks is that you can't return it once you have installed it so you get to eat their computer's mistake.
If it does measure 3.9k it is STILL possible that you got a bad KS from the box and that it immediately starts registering knock from whatever happy little engine noises it pleases.
Beyond that, i doubt the ESC module on the memcal decided to fail exactly when you put in the KS, same deal with the wiring (assuming you didn't burn/short it on the exhaust manifold or something.) You can rule these out by hooking up a KS bypass by putinga 3.9k resistor in place of the KS (other end to ground.)
...ed
ps, this knock problem is no doubt causing your other problems so start here.
[This message has been edited by Ed Maher (edited August 28, 2001).]
If it does measure 3.9k it is STILL possible that you got a bad KS from the box and that it immediately starts registering knock from whatever happy little engine noises it pleases.
Beyond that, i doubt the ESC module on the memcal decided to fail exactly when you put in the KS, same deal with the wiring (assuming you didn't burn/short it on the exhaust manifold or something.) You can rule these out by hooking up a KS bypass by putinga 3.9k resistor in place of the KS (other end to ground.)
...ed
ps, this knock problem is no doubt causing your other problems so start here.
[This message has been edited by Ed Maher (edited August 28, 2001).]
08-29-2001, 12:03 AM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Ed Maher:
If it is throwing the 43 and your SES light is staying on from practically right after you start the car then something has failed. Since this happened right after you swapped knock sensors i'm going to go out on a limb and say you put in the wrong one. Whip out an ohmmeter and measure the resistance from the connector to the body of the KS. It should be 3.9k. Some other GM cars use a 100k KS, and apparently that one comes up for our cars in some computers as i had the same thing happen to me. What really sucks is that you can't return it once you have installed it so you get to eat their computer's mistake.
If it does measure 3.9k it is STILL possible that you got a bad KS from the box and that it immediately starts registering knock from whatever happy little engine noises it pleases.
Beyond that, i doubt the ESC module on the memcal decided to fail exactly when you put in the KS, same deal with the wiring (assuming you didn't burn/short it on the exhaust manifold or something.) You can rule these out by hooking up a KS bypass by putinga 3.9k resistor in place of the KS (other end to ground.)
...ed
ps, this knock problem is no doubt causing your other problems so start here.
[This message has been edited by Ed Maher (edited August 28, 2001).]</font>
If it is throwing the 43 and your SES light is staying on from practically right after you start the car then something has failed. Since this happened right after you swapped knock sensors i'm going to go out on a limb and say you put in the wrong one. Whip out an ohmmeter and measure the resistance from the connector to the body of the KS. It should be 3.9k. Some other GM cars use a 100k KS, and apparently that one comes up for our cars in some computers as i had the same thing happen to me. What really sucks is that you can't return it once you have installed it so you get to eat their computer's mistake.
If it does measure 3.9k it is STILL possible that you got a bad KS from the box and that it immediately starts registering knock from whatever happy little engine noises it pleases.
Beyond that, i doubt the ESC module on the memcal decided to fail exactly when you put in the KS, same deal with the wiring (assuming you didn't burn/short it on the exhaust manifold or something.) You can rule these out by hooking up a KS bypass by putinga 3.9k resistor in place of the KS (other end to ground.)
...ed
ps, this knock problem is no doubt causing your other problems so start here.
[This message has been edited by Ed Maher (edited August 28, 2001).]</font>
08-29-2001, 11:08 AM
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Forgot to ask this what do you set the ohmmeter on.I'm not sure which of the selections to set the dail for this test.
Also I just thought of some thing.The block I used for my car was out of a 91 chevy p-up which was TBI.And that is what I got the knock sensor for.Now I'm thinking that might be where some of the trouble is.Probally should got one for a 91 camaro 350 instead.What do you think.I'm gonna call the parts store and see if the p/n is differant.but I thuoght I'd throw that into the mix.I'm gonna fell like such a dumbass if thats the problem
Also I just thought of some thing.The block I used for my car was out of a 91 chevy p-up which was TBI.And that is what I got the knock sensor for.Now I'm thinking that might be where some of the trouble is.Probally should got one for a 91 camaro 350 instead.What do you think.I'm gonna call the parts store and see if the p/n is differant.but I thuoght I'd throw that into the mix.I'm gonna fell like such a dumbass if thats the problem
08-30-2001, 07:43 PM
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Did you put thread sealer on the knock sensor? I put some on mine when i changed and it didnt work. The sensor needs to touch the block so it can ground itself.
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08-30-2001, 08:53 PM
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There's three things you might want to do.
First... check the continuity of the wire going from the ECM, through the harness and to the knock sensor.
Second... measure the voltage between the ECM wire going to the sensor and ground. It should be very close to 5 volts.
Third... measure the knock sensor's resistance with an ohmeter. It should about 2.5k to 4.5k.
You can try to bypass the sensor temporarily by putting a 4.7k resistor in its place and see if the code goes away. If so, you have a bad sensor.
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92 Z28 5.7
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Trick Flow 23° heads, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam, Accel intake base + ported TPI,
TES headers, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition, #24 SVO injectors, 1LE aluminum driveshaft.
Click here to see pics of my car !
First... check the continuity of the wire going from the ECM, through the harness and to the knock sensor.
Second... measure the voltage between the ECM wire going to the sensor and ground. It should be very close to 5 volts.
Third... measure the knock sensor's resistance with an ohmeter. It should about 2.5k to 4.5k.
You can try to bypass the sensor temporarily by putting a 4.7k resistor in its place and see if the code goes away. If so, you have a bad sensor.
------------------
92 Z28 5.7
------------------
Trick Flow 23° heads, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam, Accel intake base + ported TPI,
TES headers, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition, #24 SVO injectors, 1LE aluminum driveshaft.
Click here to see pics of my car !
08-31-2001, 11:04 AM
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well I put my old sensor back in yesteday.And all is well no more code.still takes a bit longer to start then I care for but it idles again.Thanks for all your replys.
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