Intake and Runners
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 148
Likes: 1
From: San Angelo, Texas
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9bolt
Intake and Runners
Well I had finally had the chance to actually get out and install my new intake setup on the car. My Camera broke during the process but I did come across a couple of issues i would like to share.
Parts Installed.
1. Bigmouth Manifold
2. A set of AS&M Runners
3. 52 MM Throttle body.
These parts were added to a pretty much stock 89 L98 Iroc (I have LCA,Hypertech Chip, Cat Delete, 3In Exhaust). I have not taken it to a dyno nor ran it down the strip but I can tell you from the old butt dyno I think it was worth a significant amount. I was shifting around 5K with the stock setup which was a little high and normally wasn't pulling as hard as it was arund 4600 (normal TPI symptoms) but that is where I would shift. I figure the mod was worth about 15-25 horsepower.
For anyone doing an intake swap just take your time marking things and the car will go back together pretty quick and start right up. I marked each and every vacumm hose as well as the location of the number one spark plug wire on the distributer as well as the angle the distributer was pointing.
Now on to the small problems.
1. Tools: The single most time consuming thing about changing the intake system out was putting the lower runner bolts back into the car. My children learned an entire new Marine Corp vocabulary while I was dropping Hex head and Torx tip bolts one after the other. Recommendation: I found that using a wobble style 1/4" drive extension was about the best thing to install the lower runner bolts. I could not find a 1/4' drive socket anywhere so I busted a couple of 3/8" sockets (both hex head and torx tip) aparts and JB Welded the actual tip portion into 1/4X1/4 drive sockets. Works great! I had been working on the lower bolts for about 1.5 hours when I stopped and did this and finally got everything finished in about 20 minutes.
2. Gasket: So after pretty much installing the runners on the intakeI was giving the once over for good luck with a flashlight when my son says dad why is there light coming out of the bottom? I had been shinning my light across the top of the runners while looking at vacuum line routing and the light showed up at the base of the runner. (This was after wrestling with the runner bolt all afternoon) Taking a closer look revealed that I did not have a seal at the runner to manifold on the right side. I realize now that with the size difference of the runners and manifold there just isn't alot of material down there and everything needs to be ligned up pretty much perfect while reinstalling your components. Recommendation: DO NOT tighten anything and move on to the next step until you have checked and double checked you fit. The old carpenter saying of "Measure twice, cut once" applies here.
Last but not least: While working with the kids and allowing them to help make sure you understand that when you say remove the tape (thats what I used to mark everything at the begginning of the job) it is all coming off. I drove around with a vaccum leak for a day or so until I figured out that the extra fitting I put a plug on had a line that ran to it that was tucked behind the valve covers.
Parts Installed.
1. Bigmouth Manifold
2. A set of AS&M Runners
3. 52 MM Throttle body.
These parts were added to a pretty much stock 89 L98 Iroc (I have LCA,Hypertech Chip, Cat Delete, 3In Exhaust). I have not taken it to a dyno nor ran it down the strip but I can tell you from the old butt dyno I think it was worth a significant amount. I was shifting around 5K with the stock setup which was a little high and normally wasn't pulling as hard as it was arund 4600 (normal TPI symptoms) but that is where I would shift. I figure the mod was worth about 15-25 horsepower.
For anyone doing an intake swap just take your time marking things and the car will go back together pretty quick and start right up. I marked each and every vacumm hose as well as the location of the number one spark plug wire on the distributer as well as the angle the distributer was pointing.
Now on to the small problems.
1. Tools: The single most time consuming thing about changing the intake system out was putting the lower runner bolts back into the car. My children learned an entire new Marine Corp vocabulary while I was dropping Hex head and Torx tip bolts one after the other. Recommendation: I found that using a wobble style 1/4" drive extension was about the best thing to install the lower runner bolts. I could not find a 1/4' drive socket anywhere so I busted a couple of 3/8" sockets (both hex head and torx tip) aparts and JB Welded the actual tip portion into 1/4X1/4 drive sockets. Works great! I had been working on the lower bolts for about 1.5 hours when I stopped and did this and finally got everything finished in about 20 minutes.
2. Gasket: So after pretty much installing the runners on the intakeI was giving the once over for good luck with a flashlight when my son says dad why is there light coming out of the bottom? I had been shinning my light across the top of the runners while looking at vacuum line routing and the light showed up at the base of the runner. (This was after wrestling with the runner bolt all afternoon) Taking a closer look revealed that I did not have a seal at the runner to manifold on the right side. I realize now that with the size difference of the runners and manifold there just isn't alot of material down there and everything needs to be ligned up pretty much perfect while reinstalling your components. Recommendation: DO NOT tighten anything and move on to the next step until you have checked and double checked you fit. The old carpenter saying of "Measure twice, cut once" applies here.
Last but not least: While working with the kids and allowing them to help make sure you understand that when you say remove the tape (thats what I used to mark everything at the begginning of the job) it is all coming off. I drove around with a vaccum leak for a day or so until I figured out that the extra fitting I put a plug on had a line that ran to it that was tucked behind the valve covers.
Last edited by lthrneck; Apr 13, 2008 at 07:49 AM.
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 744
Likes: 1
From: sf bayarea
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 350/ported accel tpi/AFR 195
Transmission: t-5 =(
Axle/Gears: 345
Re: Intake and Runners
very nice how much did it cost to have cromed/polished
----------
you at camp lejeune?
----------
you at camp lejeune?
Last edited by dspencer24; Apr 14, 2008 at 10:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 148
Likes: 1
From: San Angelo, Texas
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9bolt
Re: Intake and Runners
I bought the runners/manifold and the throttle body used from a member here. I paid 600 for all need to install the Throttle body still. I had some stuck bolts so I decided to wait until I had solid parts ion hand to replace the things I know I either will drill out or break.
I am stationed in MCAS Beaufort, SC.
Semper Fi
Lthrneck
I am stationed in MCAS Beaufort, SC.
Semper Fi
Lthrneck
Re: Intake and Runners
quick questions, what was your trick not to destroy the runners to plenum gasket. I damage a new felpro gasket on one side. I'd like to know if there are rubber type gaskets available??
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 148
Likes: 1
From: San Angelo, Texas
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9bolt
Re: Intake and Runners
I used a little elmers glue to hold the gaskets in place while I was moving the runners and gaskets around. It doesn't take much and it dries pretty quick.
S/F
Willie
S/F
Willie
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