Like if I get new rings,cause I smell oil burning from my car bad when I give it heavy throttle,how much would it generally cost to fix this parts alone,I know a guy who does engines out of his garage for real cheap,I just put valve cover gaskets on it several months ago so it doesn't leak oil anymore,it also smokes alot when you start it up allot fpr maybe 5 seconds or so but not when your going,what does this mean too???

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86 IROCZ 5.0 TPI/"new" 700R4 auto with transgo shift kit and vette servo,canary yellow,t-tops,radar detector,tan interior,hidden antenna,tinted windows,taillight blackouts,front end bra,k&n air filters,no cat,full 3" racing exhaust with 40 series flowmaster and chrome tips,2:73 posi rear(soon to be 3:42 or 3:73 posi),1989 IROCZ 16*8 polished aluminum rims

 

New rings involves the bottom of your engine and the whole thing should come out. Maybe if its just 1 bad piston it wouldn't but for all of them you should. But what do I know

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS.6

Got Beach?

 

From what your saying it's probably not your rings. My car did the same thing (smoke on startup but not when driving) and so did a friend of mine's TA. He told me that it was just my valve seals but it kept getting worse so I assumed that it was my rings. After I tore the motor apart I realized that I should have listened to him cause my block was in perfect shape and the valve seals were completly shot. Learn from my mistake, closely inspect your valve seals before you disasemble the bottum end.

 

Also note, that bad rings will make you leave a smoke screen when you stand on it. You won't necessarily smell it, but someone driving behind you will see it.
The smoke on start-up is your valve seals. Practically all SBCs do that. Yes it can even smoke for a few seconds if it is bad enough. Might be time to do a head R&R unless the shortblock is beat too.
As for leaks, there are plenty of places it can leak besides the valve cover gaskets. Even still, if it was leaking, if you didn't clean it, there could still be oil burning off somewhere, giving you that smell. You can't assume anything here.
...ed

 

WHAT!, my father and I replaced rings in a Mazda V6 and the block was in the car, why can't you do the same with the V8, from the looks of it you can do it.

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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

 

I guess the valve seals are the problem then,because there is no smoke from when I am driving it...just on start up,but I can smell it burning while driving,anyone else??,today I'm going to tighten my valve cover nuts and see if that helps any.

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86 IROCZ 5.0 TPI/"new" 700R4 auto with transgo shift kit and vette servo,canary yellow,t-tops,radar detector,tan interior,hidden antenna,tinted windows,taillight blackouts,front end bra,k&n air filters,no cat,full 3" racing exhaust with 40 series flowmaster and chrome tips,2:73 posi rear(soon to be 3:42 or 3:73 posi),1989 IROCZ 16*8 polished aluminum rims

 

You can do it, but my question is WHY would you want to do that? Thats an exercise in frustration waiting to happen. Much easier to pull the engine rather than stripping down the engine to just the crank and block while its still in the car.

[This message has been edited by madmax (edited October 16, 2001).]

 

As Madmax said, if you've pulled a SBC out of a thirdgen you'll know how easy it really is. Take the exhaust flange bolts out, unhook all wiring, take the motor mount bolts out, take radiator out and some other small things. For all the work invovled... I would highly suggest that you put the engine on a stand and do the work from there. Its almost tempting to pull the motor for a head swap in my opinion(just for easy of working on it.)


Brendan

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1987 IROC-Z L98,SR,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Cam, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, Stock T5, 30lb SVO, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Prop Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Weld in Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis LCA's, KYB Shocks/Struts, Poly Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm, Big stereo, 730SD Conversion.

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here

 

when i posted that i for that the mazda motor was mounted so there was not crossmember in the way. So i take back some of my post but it still can be done