Please help meguys i have tried so hard and spent so much..
I have a 350 tpi it has a hardtime starting usually flooding itself instaed of starting and if it does start it runs very rich and finally stalls only starting again once its dried out..
I have changed nearly everything to fix this such as new injectors, ecm, memcal (programmed to suit),distributor, igniton coil, leads, plugs, IAC, TPS, cts, knock sensor, pickup coil, spark control module...fuel regulator

Could my problem be timing?, plug gap?, I keep getting fuel in the oil changd this 4 times now its getting expensive andi have not driven this for 1 yearnow due to trying to find problem.

Please help i need professional guidance i need to set the timing to 6 degrees i believe i realise i need to unplugthe tan and black wire while timing it but with out it idling i cant do this yet so any ideas....

Some body please guide me.....

Thank you

 

i do not know what year you have.. but your problem sounds like the cold start injectror is leaking bad

 

Yes, alot more info on your car would be helpful. What year and list all mods.
Other Qs are; what injectors did you install? What fuel pressure do you have the FPR set at? Did you use a fuel pressure gauge when you installed the new FPR?

One tid bit that i learned was that the ECM will not add fuel if you have the gas pedal to the floor while you are cranking the engine. This is called "clear flood mode". This will help you to get it started once it is flooded.

The reason we want to know the year is that in '88 or '89 and newer, the 350 TPI cars did not have the 9th injector.

 

Hi yes sorry its a 1990 SD setup running on MAP...it has no cold start or Emmisions the EGR is also blocked off...i forgot to mention i have also a new O2 sensor..The injectors are 21 venoms the ecm is now set for that i have 45 psi on fuel pressure on ignition prime....I have changed all these parts with no change each time even the injectors made no difference i di not think the old ones were faulty purely changed for piece of mind the throttle body was also all cleaned out and checked for leaks everywere..I also changed airfilter in case old one was not letting air in properly.

I am pointing towards the timing not right at this stage i did make sure the rotor arm was pointing towards lead 1 when i put dizzy back in and its not 180 out as it does run sometimes...

I am no mecanic but learnt alot on this engine now...But i still not worked out how to do something as simple as set timingwith the light...

I have no numbers on my fly wheel but i do have a line on main wheel with a small plate mounted on block with some notches in there is a large v shaped notch then a couple of smaller ones left and right from that..
I have a snap on timing light which also has an adjuster on it...I could do with some advice on how to set this?...i feel dum asking im sure its simple im just not 100% sure if i am going to do it correctly..

Thanks guys

 

The MAP sensor is probably bad. Its going "Hey ECU, theres no vacuum, so its under a heavy load, throw tons of fuel at it."

Mine was doing the same crap. Fortunately I have XFI and I was able to read the sensors and notice the MAP sensor was WAY out of spec.

Also, change your oil. The gas will thin out the oil.

 

Thanks Dave it does sound that way at this stage im not ruling anything out i have actually changed the Map sensor but not to say that faulty to..The map sensor looks the same i hope these dont come in different specs.
I also spent the whole day playing with timing you see the engine will start but it puffs so much black smoke out..sometimes after twisting the cap when i find its best point i plug the tan and blackwire back in and it seems to smooth out and the smoke goes and it tries to idle it then seems okay for a few seconds untill it stalls and i have toplay with timing again.
I cant keep it running well enough to get the timing light on....catch22....I am beginning to think there is something alot deeper than what i can find..
Is there any thing i can check...Paul

 

Check fuel pressure and timing before you spend anymore money on the car.

 

Hi Dave i have checked the fuel pressure at 45 psi on prime of the engine..
The timing i am working on that its hard to get the timing ligh on the engine as i can get it to idle properly..
I am pointing towards this map sensor at the moment i have removed the emmisions system and blocked the egr the map sensors pipe is plugged into the rear of the plenum were emmisions parts are supposed to go is this correct i am going to try make pipe shorter to map sensor as its around 8 inches long at the moment.

 

Hmm. On my old TPI setup, right where the MAP sensor bolted onto the plenum, there was a hole for the MAP sensor. It took a plastic/rubber hose right into it.

 

The deepest V in the timing plate is 0*, and I think that each next V is another 4*, with advanced timing being up. I will check my book. I think that if you clean the face of this plate, and use a flash light, you can read numbers on the timing plate.

If you back off the hold down bolt for the distributor (just a tad), you can have someone crank the engine while you turn the distributor. Remember to disconnect the EST wire for the distributor.

 

Might want to check and make sure your balancer didnt spin either. Its easy to check.

 

I could not read it all

father time

did you replace all those things at once or one at a time

 

Okay i have shortened the map sensor pipe as it was 8 inch long now its 2inchs...Its not fixed..I have changed nearly every part and i have done this one at a time each time with no difference to the problem...

I double checked my dizzy was in right today i even tried it 180 out just in case i was checking it wrong all that did was make some coll popping noises out the exhaust so put it back round 180 again and it fires straight up but still running ruff and smoking (fuel smoke) checking plugs always shows wet and black plugs..

I have checked the spark on them also it seems strong enough.

Since the emmisions block off and egr removal the ecm has been programmed for this but maybe i missed something out? maybe the engine is not breathing right or something it does seem to me MAP related as somethings making it dump to much fuel...What makes it do this?
I have changed the Pick up and Ignition module..

Any more ideas or checks you guys can think off?

Thanks for your help so far

Paul

 

This may sound crazy and it is definitly a long shot, but......

I had a very similar problem when I tried to use Delco RapidFire plugs on my '90 GTA. For the life of me, I still have no idea why. They were gapped properly.

Sounds to me like you have tried the most logical solutions. Wish I could offer more help...

 

Its not a crazy shot i have thought about this i actually tried longer reach plugs than my ac short stubby ones it runs better with the short ones but i am going to try a new set soon..Which is best and which part number?
Paul

 

Go with stock part nr of the Sparkplugs.

1989 was RJ45TS dont now if its the same sparkplug on th 1990 but check your stock sparkplug # and use the same. these engines like the right/stock numbers..

 

okay cool i will try these next time...Mean while i dont hink this is my problem at the moment..

Since my egr removal, emmisions etc..do you think there maybe to much or to less pressure in the penum causing the fpr and map sensor to run funny..?

My smog pump is still on but running as a pulley instaed now unill i get a smog by pass pulley wheel..