alright i'm not expecting anyone to reply to this. this issue has been discussed over and over. unfortunately not everyone had posted what worked for them to get rid of that stupid code 33

i have a 1986 305 tpi with air foil and k&n filter. ive cleaned the maf numerous times with the crc stuff. filter is not over oiled and car drove fine for months now as is until now

after a few seconds of the car starting i get an engine light that willl stay on hot or cold

code 33

i have a rebuilt maf and replaced both relays including the wiring harnesses

replaced those about a yr ago


just last night in hopes to fix my code 33 i replaced the connectors for the maf and the tps

tonight i will be replacing my original tps it had proper readings but i hear it could have a sticky dead spot like a radio ****


so if the tps doesnt do the trick i'm not sure what else to do but have some tech guy on the phone with me and walk me through testing wires with a volt meter which im not looking forward to.


i tried starting the car a few tiems and the code came right back and on two occasions the car shuttered and rpms went up and down like a bronco or a bulll jumping around.

i couldnt drive it that way. turn it off and it didnt do it when i started again


then after just replacing the maf connector and reconnnecting the battery i started the car and shortly after took alil longer but code came back while in park

then a few mins later car just died. not sputtered, not reved up n down slowly dieing just stopped right in its tracks like someone turned the key off or pulled the power instantly.

i replaced the tps connector and drove it around for about 15mins car ran alittle rough with code 33 light on all the way and i could smell it running alittle rich



anyways ive learned no one replys to these over talked about issues. so i'll jsut post my findings and hoping it could help the next guy


and i'm sorry for all you veterans that don't approve of the throwing parts at it, just the path i chose to go.

i spent 2yrs on this car and after a month of driving i get this code.

i just want to drive it. im tired of fixing things like stupid sensor problems

i would rather just take it to a shop but 60 an hour doesnt seem very appealing at the moment. but after ive exhausted all resources and replaced every part i can think of i'll give in

 

No offense, but it sounds like you're just throwing parts at it. Do you have a good DVM (meter)? How about the shop manual? You need to spend some quality time with both. Introducing a bunch of new parts only complicates things.

 

none taken i completely agree with you

i would only do that if i had a very accurate and laid out plain and simple document or page that told me what i should be reading on each wire. and frankly i have yet to find a manual that has given me every piece of info i needed to diagnose a circuit problem properly.


what upsets me most is that you go to auto part stores and they cant even tell you which is the burnoff or power relay when you try to buy a new one. all tehy can tell you is they have relays for the maf circuit. that doesnt really help.

anyways i dont mind replacing everything in the maf circuit as long as its not the maf itself. i already repalced it a yr ago and just started driving the stupid car in june.

but at this point the only trhing not replaced is the tps sensor which im repalcing today

and the ecm is original

so my options are narrowing down and if i have to replace the relays so be it i jsut hope someone at the store can tell me which one is which when they sell them to me

 

every single time i get that code its the stupid TPS somehow re-adjusting itself to .33 or so and i have to change it back, i hate those things

 

just so everyone knows i didnt throw parts at it this time it was a silly problem.

i through as much parts at it in the begginging because the previous owner let it sit for a while and the engine bay was a mess with a bunch of error codes and if you go to search and search "my 1986 trans am take a look" you'll see what i started out with 2 yrs ago.



false alarm. im not used to a car thats sensitive to when it rains and condensation.


it rained really hard the night before. and i only had tape over where i replaced the maf relays and wire harness.

the water from the side of the windshield goes right down and onto the relays and harnesses


i removed the cheap tape job i did from a yr ago and put better fresh tape over each wire and then wrapped them all together even zip tied both ends shut and then sprayed wire dryer on my distributor and any wire group i taped up and under all my relays

we'll see how it goes next time it rains reallly good.


it was cold wet and damp the day and night of the code 33.


i drove to work in my other car. came home it was a nice hot sunny day car was dry as a bone started her up and no code. drove her all night after i taped everything up and still no code must of started her 10times after driving all over town.

still no code. i like that when theres no code