My neighbor has a 90 Z28 that has the 305 TPI in it. Today, he went out to leave the house and the car started and then died. Now when you turn the key to start it, nothing. I tried ot figure it out and this is what I figured out that works. The fuel pump does come on and you can hear a clicking in the front of the car. We put a test light on the starter and got nothing. When the key is turned to start, the radio lights go off. Any ideas?

 

Sounds like a bad connection between the battery and the starter or the starter solenoid has failed.

 

I dont know for this exact car, but if you are hearing a "clicking" under the hood you should find the sorce of this. It sounds like a relay that is not staying charged. I also think you have skiped some steps. A Engine only needs GAS, AIR and FIRE to start. Check this first. If fule injected you will see a valve on the rail that looks allot like you would see on a bike tire. Turn the key to the run position and use a small object to push in on the senter of the valve. Gas should come out. Net check for spark. unplug ANY spark plug and put a loose plug in the whire. Ground the othere end of the plug to the Engine block or head. As someone cranks the car you should see blue flash from the plug. Youre getting air im sure. Let me know what you find from the test and I will tell you the step to take next.

 

I agree with jv999. The clicking may be nothing more than the battery is lacking in amperes to turn the car over (undercharged or bad battery), a bad connection or the starter solenoid is bad. It's never a bad idea to check spark and gas. If you have a pressure gage attach it to the connection on the fuel rail (left back of rail from front of car). turn ignition on and it should read about 40 psi (or close). If so, fuel is probably ok.

 

be careful if you pull a plug and turn it over to check for spark, if you have any fuel vapor in the air you might burn off some hair! also, might want to make that if you pull a plug, hold it with a pair of insulated pliers or something, I've been shocked through the boots before, even a stock HEI hurts!

 

"the car started and then died"

Because of this you can exclude bad battery and exclude bad starter and no manufacture (other than Ford Motor Corp.) has reported this type of "starter solenoid" failure while the car was running. Starter Solenoids are used only as a trigger to start the car converting a 12 volt 15 to 30 amp charge to you're starters required 12 volt 300 to 725 amp charge. Well with the exception on Ford.
That do'nt mean it cant happen. There is a easy test you can do to see if the solenoid is bad.

1. there should be 4 wires on the solenoid. 2 large fat and 2 smaller. Locate them.

2. Turn the key to the RUN position (not start). Use you're test light and at this point you should have 1 of the 2 large wires should be hot (12 volts) and 1 of the 2 smaller wires should be hot (12 volts). If this is true move on to step 3. If it failed this test then the prob is NOT the Solenoid but before it.

3. Use a screwdriver or jumper cable to connect or cross the 2 smaller wires. This should make the car turn over and/or start so be caution.

4. In step 2 there was 1 of the 2 wires on the solenoid that was NOT hot with the key in the RUN position. Now unhook that wire from the solenoid and plug your test light in to the end of that wire. Have someone turn the key to the START position and your test light should trigger or light up. If not the problem is BEFORE the solenoid. If it do the problem is the solenoid.