Looking for real world opinions and evaluations on the following build:
Chevy 010 4-bolt SBC aligned-honed,decked,bored.030 over,stroker clearanced, and ARP mains studded.
Eagle rotating assy.4340 forged steel crank,H-beam steel 6" rods,SRP flat-top forged pistons w/+5.00cc valve reliefs,Clevite H-series bearings,Speed Power file fit rings.Pistons set a 0.0 deck heigth and assy balanced(neutral) with ATI harmonic balancer.
Comp Cams 280XFI HR-13 cam,Comp retro-roller lifters,Crane Gold roller-rockers 1:6 ratio,Cloyes billet true-roller chain and gears,Comp pushrods.
AFR 195cc Comp Pk.75cc L98 angle plug heads,TPIS Mini-Ram,TPIS 58mm TB,30lb.Ford Racing injectors,ARP head bolts.
Moroso 6qt.deep pan,Melling M55 HV oil pump,windage tray.
MSD Dizzy and digital box w/rev control.
Hooker SC Long Tube headers to 3" y-pipe and 3" all the way to a Hooker Aero-Chamber muffler w/2 1/2 outlets.(Also 3" elec.cutout).
Pro-Built 700R4,SFI flexplate with convertor stall to be determined(any suggestions?).
3.42 posi rearend.
Painless harness converteted to SD w/7730 ECM and custom tune and chips.
This is going in a 85 Iroc-Z with all power and A/C. All suspension mods,(STB,SFC's,all poly,etc). Full interior.
So,tell me what you think of my setup as to engine HP,RWHP, and possible 1/4 mile times and speeds. Thanks

 

Id say with that setup, engine is about 425, and id say about 390-400 at the wheels. Youre torque might look a little funky on the dyno depending on the speed of the stall convertor. Id say about 2600 speed should do it.

 

ttt

 

with a good tune, (get a wideband)
I see 12's for sure.

 

I'd go 65cc heads to get compression back to 11 to 1 and that combo will go mid high 11's

Thats not to far off my build. my cam was abit bigger, but you have better heads and a miniram which does well. No reason you shouldnt have atleast 370whp and go mid 11's. COnverter i'd go 3000-3200 stall for a street car, 3600 for street strip

 

I'd keep compression close to or lower than 10.5:1 with the crappy gas we have nowadays. 2,600-2,800 stall, 3.73's and up the exhaust to 3" Y with single 3 1/2" cat-back, 3 1/2" cutout, with a 3 1/2" single in-single out muffler (they flow better than the cross-flow mufflers). Also, I hope the block is 1-piece rear main and hydraulic roller......

 

Sounds like a badass combo!

 

No Mike I have a 2-piece old school block, but it is a 4-bolt "truck" type. It was free and is in very good condition. Had it Magna-fluxed.Went with the retro-rollers and hyd.roller cam. I have decided to mill heads to 70cc to attain a 10.5:1 compression. As for the exhaust I assume you have a single outlet at the rear? What brand and type muffler are you using? I plan on not running a cat.conv. and maybe can just use an adapter to go up to 3 1/2" from the rear of the y-pipe. I'll have to live with my 3.42 for now,have thought about going with a 3.73 in the future. Have almost everything for my build,waiting on harness and a lull in work so I can get started on the swap. I'll get this car done someday.

 

BTW,thanks for all the replys,always looking for as much info as I can get.

 

I recommend what I'm currently using (a flowmaster dual 3" in and single 3 1/2" out Y-collector, mufflex 3 1/2" cat-back with spintech muffler), but, they have 4 different mufflers in single in/single out to choose from (flowmaster, spintech, hooker, dynomax) from there, it's just sound preference and 1 or 2 HP difference between the mufflers..

Here's a pic of my setup.. As you can see, the lowest part of my exhaust are the headers (same headers you chose) AND I also have poly motor mounts which raise the motor etc. about 1/2" over stock.

 

Who built your y-pipe? I was going to maybe buy a Mufflex y-pipe. Looking for options,however I want to have complete exhaust installed when I first start my engine,don't want to frighten the neighbors.

 

even with something like that muffler, its still gonna be pretty loud Hard to tame down a powerful motor thru a single 3.5-4" system with a single muffler. You can but it be losing alot of power

 

My boss and I made the header extensions to the y-collector. The Y-collector itself is a flowmaster y-collector. If you want max power AND quiet, the dynomax muffler is the least noisy and still makes good power. It's a straight through design.

The spintech like what I have is a bit loud.

When video starts, click watch in high quality...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfLWpAy0c1o

 

Watched the vid,sounded nice.

 

I'm not sure of the exact cam specs, so power is a little hard to guesstimate. A 383 built like this with the right cam should make an easy 450-475HP and 500+ lbs/ft all day long. Those AFR heads are capable of well over 550HP with the 2.05 intake valve and the AFR port design they flow gobs of air. I'd use studs for the heads and mains. It's cheap insurance ande you'll get better clamping. If you can hook you'll go 11s for sure with the right converter. A motor with this kind of torque should overcome the 700R4's tendancy to have the motor fall on it's face on the 1-2 shift. I agree with a 3,000-3,200 stall speed with a lockup if you plan to street drive it. You may want to step up the rear gear to a 3.73-4.11, but the lower gear may help you hook so I'd try it as is and if it hooks leave it alone. All in all a nice combo. Do all the blueprinting and block tricks and it'll last 100k too.

 

Should be good for low 12's if not high 11's. I'm running a 6 year old 383 with 40K miles on it and so far so good. Its the stock 89 TPI block, Cast eagle crank. Eagle i beams and Hyper speedpro's 10:4:1 comp. Old school TFS Heads and the outdated LPE219 cam and miniram. I had it dynoed last year and with that many hard miles on it it was still pulling 368 RWHP and 390ish TQ. I'm using a 2600 Edge 9.5 unit. ( I love that converter) As for 1/4 times , My best run was 12.6 @ 106 with a 2.1 60's (My 9 bolt posi is shot)

I'm running the OBDII 411 Compter.

 

exaust 3.5 all the way thru,your gonna want it to breath and with that set up gears shuld be 377 if you plan on running it.thats what my 383 was set at and i ran 10.9 on cool nights and 4.3 squeeze n the bottle.carbs. r always better to me,id run a 700cfm.with an electric blue fuel pump,that will dump fuel like you wouldnt believe

 

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I've got a couple thoughts on Mkos1980's post.

The AFR heads with flat top pistons are going to give you more like 11:1 compression if you zero decked the block. The AFRs also flow more efficiently than TFS heads. They cost more because they are worth it. As I said before the cam is going to make a huge difference too. If the motor's cammed right it will make 450-475HP easy, which is about 360-380HP at the wheels (assuming 20% loss through the drivetrain, which is about right for a 700R4). Still, Mkos 1980, your car's putting down the numbers based on your dyno pull.

So we'll look elsewhere. First off, a 2.10 60 foot time is not going to get you into the 11s. Remember I said, if you can hook. A 2.10 isn't what I call hooking. I'm cutting 1.88s in a fullsize diesel truck (7,000 lbs!) running 14.20s. The difference between a 2.10 and a 1.85 60 foot time is about 0.55 seconds at the end of the 1/4 mile all things being equal. A lot of seat time has born that out.

We also need to address the difference between a 2,600 stall converter and a 3,000 stall converter which is not insignificant. That's worth at least two tenths.

You add up these three factors and high to mid 11s is not so far fetched. Plus, there's the fact that 1/4 mile ET is a factor of weight and horsepower. If you plug a 3,700 pound car with 450-475HP into the calculator you get an 11.75-11.55 ET. That means that if you can put that power down efficiently you can run those times. What this shows you is that with the right gear, tire, suspension, and converter a car that weighs 3,700 lbs (a typical 3rd gen with driver in street trim) with 450-475HP has the potential to run high to mid 11s. What you do with that potential is up to you.

And we didn't even talk about track altitude, which can cut a car's ET by a full second easy. My local track is blessed to be near sea level, but if you are running at 1,000 feet above or more it will start to affect your times. Plus track conditions can affect your run. Humidity, temperature, etc. all affect ET. There are correction factors to adjust your time to ideal conditions, but we all need to be aware of the affect the environment can have. A 12.5 in Denver is a lot faster than a 12.5 in Rising Sun.

Bottom line, Mkos 1980, your car is capable of running quite a bit faster than it is, and BADMAN's car can run in the 11s with a similar setup with a few changes to nothing other than the stuff that surrounds that motor.

 

I agree, 368whp is enough to get into the high 11's with a 1.5x-1.6x 60 foot. I went 11.6's my first time out on a 1.6x 60 foot with a rough tune that was like 375whp and 350-360ish wtq. Later increased that to 392whp/372wtq on my last pull and picked up 2 tenths and 2mph on the same 60 foots.

3500-3600 stall is optimal for these 383s with 230 degree cams, and miniram/hsr type intakes. 3.73 gears help but you can run 3.42's