Hi Guys,
I got my block back from the machine shop. They gave me a block that was already done (same casting number) instead of my exact block.

Now my oil pressure switch won't thread-in. I think the threads are different in the hole? Is there another spot I can relocate the sensor to? If not, can I just plug the hole and not use the oil pressure switch?

I did a search and found out the switch is used as a backup for the fuel pump relay.

Please advise! Thanks!!!

 

AFAIK, the hole on the top of the block for the oil pressure sending switch has been 1/8" NPT (pipe thread) forever.

Put the eyeball on it. There still might be a broken piece of sending unit or pipe in there.

 

Thanks for the response paulo57509!

I will check it out.

 

And you don't want to not use it. Unless you don't care what your oil pressure is running!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Go to the local auto parts store and ask them to pull an oil pressure sensor (it's actually a switch/sender and not a sensor) for the early 90s S10 4.3L engine (VIN Z). They should be able to locate the oil sending unit using 1/8" NPT. This will thread to the back of the block behind the intake manifold, and will be compatible with your gauge. If given the option for "light" or "gauge", tell them "gauge". Same harness connector, same wiring configuration.

I think these are the part numbers:
ACDelco D1824
GM 25036941
Standard PS236
Airtex 1S6592

Notice the 1/8" NPT thread.


The switch portion of the "sensor" is just a redundant power source to the fuel pump. GM did away with this for the LT1 f-body and just about every vehicle I'm aware of after 2000.

The oil pressure switch is NOT going to stop the fuel pump from running if there is no oil pressure. This is a common misconception.