That's ironic. I called Autozone yesterday to buy a coolant fan relay for my wives 2000 mercury mystique. According to the computer, there was 5 on hand. I got to the store only to find out that the local Ford dealership took all 5 one month ago. So I special ordered 1 from a San Diego store.

 

can this time delay switch be an altenernative to the EGR Temp Switch?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...68613_173005_0_

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...Y2zmV4-ybZydrw

 

So, the only thing the switch does is throw a code?

My EGR valve was bad, but I never got a code. I replaced the valve. But thought about taking the switch off to test it. But if it's only purpose is to send an SES light and doesn't affect the EGR valve operation. Then I won't bother trying to pull it as it was stuck last time I tried pulling it.

I still get knock counts on acceleration under load. So, I'll just test the solenoid then.

 

WRONG. The EGR Temp switch (known as sensor) grounds itself. THere is a small needle like piece of metal that bends with heat. So when the intake manifold reaches aprox. 132*, the EGR Temp Switch (sensor) grounds out which sends a signal to the ECM that the operating temperature has been reached. Then the ECM sends a current signal to the EGR Solenoid. With the current sent to the EGR Solenoid, it opens the little EGR Solenoid valve that allows vacuum to be applied to the EGR Valve via vac lines. Then the EGR Valve opens and allows exaust to enter the intake which helps with emissions as well as maintain lower temperatures inside the combustion chamber.

 

I beleive that a EGR troublecode is logged when the ECM doesnt get a grounding signal from the EGR Temp Switch when the engine reaches normal operating temp. How does the ECM know when the engine is at normal operating temp? Coolant Temp Sensor or Coolant Temp Sender ( not sure which one it is but one is for the ECM and the other is for the Temp Gauge).

 

...

 

I never said the switch sends a signal to activate the EgR valve. I said the switch grounds and the ECM see's this ground. Once the ECM senses this grounding, it then sends current to the EGR Solenoid so that it opens the valve within itself. When this valve opens (inside the EGR solenoid), it allows vacuum to be applied to the EGR valve. The switch is not a diagnostic switch. It does have a purpose which I mentioned twice within 4 hours.

 

yeah once i got mine my code 32 went away, now i have a code 12, and a coolant temp low reading code

 

...

 

Code 12 doesn't mean anything. And you'll get that every time you check for codes.

 

yeah i know josh, SES light always stays on with that code 12 annoying.

 

Your light would be on because of the "coolant temp low reading code".

You want to see a code 12 when you check codes.

 

yeah that was is brand new lol. need to do that sooner or later.

 

Can anyone tell me where is the egr time delay switch? Thanks

 

Time Delay Switch? There is the EGR Temp Switch (sensor) which takes time to ground after the engine warms up. It is mounted on the EGR Valve on the TPI systems.

 

"Can anyone tell me where is the egr time delay switch? Thanks"

It is on the front of the manifold next to the CTS. They look similar. Yellow and black wire goes to the CTS. The other one is the time delay.

 

I found a solution to the EGR Temp Switch. YOu'll need a aftermarket temp switch. Ill get to you guys later. Im in class right now. Garenteed to work by using your coolant temp for operation.

 

Ok guys. Go to Autozone.com and search this part number: 733653
( http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=267187_0_0_ )
Since my EGR Temp Switch grounds itself at around 132* at the EGR temp Switch base, all you would have to do is put in the temp. probe into the top radiator hose and clamp it. Dont use the foam that is included, itll just make a large leak. So here is what you do. Remove upper radiator hose, insert probe about 1-3 inches inside the hose. clamp it down. THen get a votimeter and put it in continuety mode. put the voltimeter leads to each end of the switch terminals. Then turn on the 3rd Gen and watch the temp gauge. Once the temperature reads 132*, go to the switch and slowly turn the **** until the voltimeter recieves a reading. The reading that the voltimeter will be seeing is that the switch is being adjusted to ground at the temp that the coolant is at. Once you achieve the switch to ground itself at 132*, you can now move on to the EGRE wire. Connect the EGR wire with the provided blue wire to one end of the switch terminal. Then connect the other terminal to any groundpoint. now your done. If I confused anyone, please let me know and Ill clear it up a bit.

 

Any thoughts on my last post? Anyone?

 

sounds plausible

 

Its gotta work. The probe acts as the heat sensing device which triggers the switch/**** to ground at the adjusted temperature (approx 132*). It will not open the circuit until the coolant temp drops to under 132* the good thing is that the temp switch doesn't require power to work. So it should work. I'm gonna test it out when I buy a new coolant fan. But this fan I'm gonna wire it witht he temp switch instead of using the ECM's turn-on lead. Hopefully it won't take long till I buy a fan and switch.

 

Latest availability.
Would need to splice the wire for a 3rd Gen

http://www.keenparts.com/pages/detai...=370196&PL=131

http://www.keenparts.com/pages/detai...=370196&PL=131

 

That's the switch in my 88 Corvette. I bought the car 5 years ago and the switch has never worked, no more wire lead on top. I bought a new one, but with a real good tune I never get the check engine light so haven't installed it yet.
Passed the last 3 smogs with no problems. My understanding is that it is a diagnostic switch that might indicate a problem because the EGR function did not work. My EGR circuit works fine.

 

Its not a diagnostic switch. When the EGR Temp Switch heat up to around 132*, Its grounds itself. THis will close the circuit and the ECM will know that the switch has now grounded itself. Then the ECM will trigger the EGR solenoid to open its valve which will allow vacuum to the EGR valve. As the EGR valve opens, it introduces exhaust into the intake system. It is wise to have the EGR system working properly because itl help keep the upper cylinder from becoming too hot. If the upper cylinder gets too hot, you will begin to have engine knock.

 

As for the tuning process, IIRC, you can max out one of the settings which will make the ECM think that the EGR is working properly. I had the option to disable my EGR and remove the EGR valve when a fellow member burned me a EPROM, but I weighed my options and decided to keep my engine like how it is supposed to be.

 

Wrong as well.
The switch tells the ECM that exh gas is flowing into engine when the ECM has commanded the EGR valve to open.


Code 32-
"A egr failure will set this code.
Either a faulty EGR valve, EGR temp. switch or the EGR control solenoid. .

When the egr solenoid is operating properly, the ecm will activate it, allowing vacuum to open the egr valve, this in turn will allow the hot exhaust gases to circulate through the egr valve
and the EGR temp. switch will heat up until it reaches its activation temperature, it will then close and send a grounded signal back to the ECM telling it the EGR conditions have been met.
If the switch is closed on start up or does not close when the operating parameters are met,
code 32 will be set".

 

Well I did put a multimeter to the lead on the egr temp switch which grounded when the temp reached 132* (thermal lazer thermometer) with the multimeter in continuity. So I believe I'm correct in my behalf. After all, the switch does act like a little christmas light flasher, it bends with heat.

 

You may be but that is not how the factory designed it.
Switch is only supposed to operate when exh gas is flowing over it

 

I think we both have a topic that deserves to be well investigated. But for the sake of peace, ill investigate and save the results until I get a concrete answer.

 

I think I may have found something. I ordered one yesterday. aside of possibly having to lengthen the wire for it I think it will work rather well. We can thank the C4 vette' crowd

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5Z5Z50000050F#

 

Hello . I have found this item at Napa in Harrisburg Pa. it's $18.oo bucks :-)
Part # is > CRB 229130....
This is for 1988 Iroc's TPI.. 305 might fit 350 also... good luck

 

Good find.

Hopefully it's available to those that need one. NAPA On-Line won't allow mail order; only in-store pickup. The stores around me don't stock it and it has to be ordered. We've all been down THAT road before (read: NLA - no longer available).

 

Ok maybe i can help..... I live here in harrisburg, So for anyone needing that item give me an IM on here or at Meta1909@hotmail.com... we can work something out ... with a small finders fee :>)
P.S just kidding about the last part
ERG Temp Sensor Part # CRB 229130 for Tpi Iroc's 1988
Have a good one all ........

 

That's good news. Guess I can ditch the ones I have been saving. lol

 

little suckers are getting pricey now!

 

guy on ebays selling one for 400$ brand new.. efff.

 

man what a nightmare i am having finding this stupid egr temp sensor

 

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&

 

part number on that 1 is 14087415 which crosses to a delco 212 336

our cars is 14087416 crossing in delco to 212 337


any idea what the diff is?

 

I think it's just the pigtail length ? I have a few used ones Ill check today and see If I can tell.

 

id appreciate it. thanks

id buy a used camaro/firebird one if u got 1 to sell

 

Camaro /Firebird


Vette


Seems like vett has shorter wire...

 

Figure I'll give an update. I installed this (c4 corvette one) months ago now... It works perfect, you DO have to cut and extend the pigtail about 6-8 inches for it to reach (took 15 minutes to do). It threads into the EGR just the same. Longest my SES lamp has been off since I've owned the car.

 

just checked and your right !!!

 

http://chevythunder.com/fuel%20injec...temp%20sw..htm

 

After reading that article I adjusted the EGR temp switch in my '87 vette & solved my code 32 problem. The shaft is threaded and moved quite easily. I turned mine out about 3 turns & problem solved.

I haven't read the whole thread but the Vette version of the temp switch has been available for a few months now.

 

.. So, when my EGR temp switch goes bad, can I just plug the EGR vacuum line (while leaving it 'connected') and disconect the switch wire (while leaving it looking 'connected') and live happily ever after for free?

.. I disconnected and plugged the EGR vacuum hose on my Monte today and when I drove it to the store, it ran like new again the whole way, instead of sometimes good, sometimes rough... At first, I was surprised it was running so well, then I remembered disconnecting/plugging the hose... I don't think the Monte has that EGR temp switch, it doesn't know if the EGR is actually doing anything (besides making it run crappy)...

 

hi guys I own an Iroc 86 TPI and my problem is that in the mornings I turn on the car the SES light comes on,I let it warm on for 5 min. I turn it off for a 1 min and the turn it on and the light is gone for the rest of the day and when I check for codes it give me code 32 what it could be?you think is the egr valve I replace it but I have read that even new ones can go bad really soon any help would be appreciate it

 

.. If you would have read the thread above, you would realize the Code 32 is because the EGR temp switch/sensor is shorted out and bad when the engine was first started... the 2nd time you start it, the engine is warm and the ECM thinks the switch is now closing normally... try simply unplugging the EGR temp switch and see if all is well after that...

.. A Vette owner mentioned above 'adjusting' the switch by turning the wire mount, but I'm wondering if he adjusted it... or merely broke it to an 'open' circuit condition...

 

Just reread my FSM: a code 32 will be thrown if the switch doesn't close when the engine warms up---so no I didn't break it. Simply disconnecting the switch won't solve a code 32 problem, just move it from start up to warmed up.


Merry Christmas