where to start,ive been having a really hard time starting the bird lately,at first it seemed like it wasnt firing on all 8, so i went and bought a new Distributor for it, well that didnt do anything for it,first fire up with it, it spit and sputtered then flood it self out again, i pulled the vac off the reg to see if any fuel was in the vac line, there wasnt. it throw a code 43 and 53,any help would be great as im at my wits end with this damn thing almost ready to part this thing out

 

43 is your knock sensor or ECM, If you disconnect the connector to reset base timing (single connector on the left by the blower motor) does the engine seem to run more smoothly? Also try pulling one of your spark plugs and checking it for signs of bad ignition timing.

 

pulled a plug motor is differently flooding it self,

 

Code 43 could be putting the motor in "limp home" mode where the timing is set way back and fuel gets pumped in. Did you try replacing your knock sensor to see if you could clear the SES light? and did disconnecting the base timing connector help at all?

 

havent tried replacing the knock sensor yet,but will as i pulled a couple plugs to find them soaked with gas,so i guess another set will be going in( which sucks as these 1's are lucky to have 20 kms on them) i do have spark,that ive checked,but would the knock sensor make it flood it self out? this tpi stuff is new to me,car ran awsome until this happened and which it happened all of a sudden without warning

 

thought id add, i just finished checking all the injectors, all but 1 were 17, the other 1 was 10

 

I had a bad coolant temp sensor that made mine flood . try pulling fuel pump fuse to clear out the fuel. test cts with ohm meter.

 

ohm'd cts is it was 3.14 ohms, not sure if thats good or not, also i cant start it right now as it wont start yet, but did check tps also, its right where it should be,

 

It depends on the engine temp check this page out see if it helps you. When mine was bad I had no reading at all. http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt13.asp

 

thanks for the link,car hasnt run since this morn,id like to think its cold now....lol im a carb guy whos making the switch to tpi, but sure isnt liking it.....lol, oh ya when i retrieve the codes with the jumper,my fan didnt come on,but instead heard what sounded like clicking noises

 

An other possibility is your map sensor.

 

just wish i knew,getting tired of changing the plugs,where the fuse for the fuel pump located

 

It might have a inline fuse you could pull the relay also not sure where it is I have an aftermarket wire harness. look by mastercylinder on firewall

 

pulling relay will stop fuel pump from running with key on but when oil presure comes up pump will start to run after that, to disable fuel pump all together you might have to un plug it at the tank.

 

well after changing the plugs again, fig id try and start it again,as soon as it starts it starts to flood it self,i unplugged the fuel pump, and get it started and runs great,plug it back in and floods,would the knock sensor or cts cause that,havent tried the map sensor yet but do have spare 1's, what happens if i were to just unhook the knock sensor?

 

changed the cts, wasn't
that

 

My understanding is the knock sensor adjust the timing for pinging.

 

did you clear the codes?

 

sure did,but still getting the same codes,if i want the car to idle, i have to unhook fuel pump wire if not still flooding out,i did pull puter out,its got a hypertech chip, part number 120353,not sure cant figure it out soon its going carbed

 

Do you have a code list , here is a link to gm codes
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/90-91_50F.shtml

 

thanks,this thing is driving me nuts,stupid part about it,was it was running great with no problems, then went to leave work and bam, nothing but problems

 

code 53 battery volt high , maybe battery over charging, shot in the dark? could be ECm like racethesunlive said earlier.

 

just want this thing to run.....lol, running out of ideas to look at

 

Any luck yet?

 

well ive changed every senor but 1,( 1 on the passenger side head,looks like a temp sensor)still flooding, thought for sure fuel pressure reg,just tested it and its at 42 psi,mind u it only ran for 5 seconds, but it held at 42,still have the gauge hooked up and timing the leak down

 

after 45 mins pressure is at roughly 34-35 sitting not running

 

check...all...your...vacuum...lines...idk these cars are ridiculous at times. Good Luck!

 

after over 7 hours fuel pressure is sitting at 15 on the gauge

 

You said you change all sensor but 1. there is a sensor under plenum for mat did you get that 1 as well. it is the same part as cts.

 

no i didnt,i just got the plenum off

 

try pluging in your old cts to it and see if that does it, whats your battery volts?

 

fully charged,its got me,

 

still same codes?

 

ya,i got it going in to be put on a scanner,hope it finds something i cant

 

check out this thread it has alot of info about a problem like yours.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ml#post4285364

 

true we both seem to be having the problems,but mine floods all 8 on start up,even after 30 plus hours i still got 10 psi on my fuel gauge from starting it yesterday

 

any luck with scaner?

 

gos in tomorrow afternoon,new gaskets for intake,runners and TB came in tonight,but working midnights,so im gonna put it back together tomorrow morn and then take it in

i shot this 2 weeks before all this happened,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX3ORY2d_cc


1 thing i did do was pulled the fuse from my daytime running lights,and while doing that i noticed my fog light fuse was missing,so i put a fuse in it,i dont think the 2 are connected by any means

 

did you check pulse on your injector wires when cranking just to see how often the fire?

 

no can say i didnt do that

 

test light between the two wires when cranking it should strobe. not shure how fast just neat to watch.

 

i will test that

 

heres what ive changed today, fuel pressure reg,(tho the old 1 looked ok no rips or nothing) adjustable 1 will be in on monday so just got the baffle rebuild kit for now, knock sensor,air temp thingy under plenum,thermostat,intake and plenum gaskets,map sensor,tps only 1 i didnt change was the iac sensor,fig id wait to see what happens with the scan today, i got my fingers crossed but no faith in it.....lol

1 thing i did noticed was the new fuel pressure baffle was at least 1/16th to a 1/8th taller then the old 1,

 

well still doing it,puffing black smoke huge on start up with fuel pump hooked up,runs ok with out it hooked,my temp right now is roughly 125, tested my cts, volts was .51 and ohms was .48,

 

Why didn't you change your injectors while you had the intake apart to change the fpr. you did say that one of them ohm'd out at 10 right? That right there can cause a whole mess of problems.

 

when i retested it,they were all the same hot and cold,plus the leak down test woulda showed if 1 was bad,and its like what 15 mins tops to take it apart again

 

I would start to suspect that hypertech chip too possibly. Do you have the stock one around anywhere to try and see if it helps? Check grounds...especially the one for your computer as well.

 

no i wish i did thou,gonna start on the grounds,garage didnt have time for my car today for the scan,only codes im getting still is 53 and 43

 

begining to think plug wires even thou they are brand new, but just cheapys when i was timing it,i had a hard time getting it to light the timing light,would work here and there

 

Holding the pedal to the floorboard before cranking disables the injectors to clear the flood.