my iroc wont stay on at times.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 0
From: Tigard, OR
Car: 87 iroc-z camaro
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G92 3.23 posi
my iroc wont stay on at times.
hi well i have a 87 iroc which i just paid 1500 bucks to get running becuse well 5yrs ago when she began to sit she had a full tank of gas and everything got all clogged up and such
but anyway some times when i come home i'll start up the iroc and some times it will start up but very weekly and quietly then dies but on the second start it would fire up strong and healty.
then it would fire up fine for a couple days no problem. then it started to just crank very quietly but not fire up then again on second try it will fire up again strong and healty.
and now it will fire up just fine with no problems but i suspect it to maybe start up again ( the problems started about 1 month ago )
the first about 2 weeks of having her running she i suspected ran fine but then i noticed on the 3rd-2nd month and now it has more cranking power then before like it is a little louder ( in a good way ) and starts a second or two quicker just like new. the car i think usally has this problem when its really hot out but i havent verified this. also the needle is in the center of the guage and everythin seems tight for battery cords.
so do you know what this might be? should i be woried? other than that it drives/sounds just fine but does any1 else has a wining sounding engine? it sounds like mine is supercharged and rlly noticable on camera. also just wondering does it sound like the performance is near stock levels if it can squeal the tires from a lil under 3/4 throttle from a dead stop with 3.23 posi gears and 12+ years old performance tires. iv never done mods to her and the 1st owner had her for around 5yrs but not sure if he has. also she is a 305 tpi auto and the whole thing has 27k miles exept tranny which im hopping was new but if new it would be from the early 90's. thank you everyone.
but anyway some times when i come home i'll start up the iroc and some times it will start up but very weekly and quietly then dies but on the second start it would fire up strong and healty.
then it would fire up fine for a couple days no problem. then it started to just crank very quietly but not fire up then again on second try it will fire up again strong and healty.
and now it will fire up just fine with no problems but i suspect it to maybe start up again ( the problems started about 1 month ago )
the first about 2 weeks of having her running she i suspected ran fine but then i noticed on the 3rd-2nd month and now it has more cranking power then before like it is a little louder ( in a good way ) and starts a second or two quicker just like new. the car i think usally has this problem when its really hot out but i havent verified this. also the needle is in the center of the guage and everythin seems tight for battery cords.
so do you know what this might be? should i be woried? other than that it drives/sounds just fine but does any1 else has a wining sounding engine? it sounds like mine is supercharged and rlly noticable on camera. also just wondering does it sound like the performance is near stock levels if it can squeal the tires from a lil under 3/4 throttle from a dead stop with 3.23 posi gears and 12+ years old performance tires. iv never done mods to her and the 1st owner had her for around 5yrs but not sure if he has. also she is a 305 tpi auto and the whole thing has 27k miles exept tranny which im hopping was new but if new it would be from the early 90's. thank you everyone.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 60
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Probuilt Hardparts
Axle/Gears: G92 3.23
Re: my iroc wont stay on at times.
what all was done for $1500?? Mine sat for 6yrs, and I had the fuel system gum up too. I've since moved on to other minor things, and await some other major stuff too. hope you atleast got a new tank and pump, sender...as well as a good reach around! heh!
you need a good working baseline, so make sure the basic stuff has been done--plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor button, vacuum lines, air filters, fuel filter, etc, pvc, etc. Then move on to hard parts starting with the injectors... first check fuel pressure while running, should be around 34-42 psi while running with the vacuum plugged in, and should increase to 42psi while revving. Do a injector bleed down test with FP guage and see how long it takes to leak down. Ohm out the injectors... Also, clean your idle air control valve and passages, that's real important and made a huge difference in starting for me.
hope that helps. also, look on the internet for "resurrecting a sitting car", very helpful information... and a lot of preaching of how to store a car properly. I usually start mine once a day, and run it for 40 minutes around the "circuit" once a week.
you need a good working baseline, so make sure the basic stuff has been done--plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor button, vacuum lines, air filters, fuel filter, etc, pvc, etc. Then move on to hard parts starting with the injectors... first check fuel pressure while running, should be around 34-42 psi while running with the vacuum plugged in, and should increase to 42psi while revving. Do a injector bleed down test with FP guage and see how long it takes to leak down. Ohm out the injectors... Also, clean your idle air control valve and passages, that's real important and made a huge difference in starting for me.
hope that helps. also, look on the internet for "resurrecting a sitting car", very helpful information... and a lot of preaching of how to store a car properly. I usually start mine once a day, and run it for 40 minutes around the "circuit" once a week.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 0
From: Tigard, OR
Car: 87 iroc-z camaro
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G92 3.23 posi
Re: my iroc wont stay on at times.
what all was done for $1500?? Mine sat for 6yrs, and I had the fuel system gum up too. I've since moved on to other minor things, and await some other major stuff too. hope you atleast got a new tank and pump, sender...as well as a good reach around! heh!
you need a good working baseline, so make sure the basic stuff has been done--plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor button, vacuum lines, air filters, fuel filter, etc, pvc, etc. Then move on to hard parts starting with the injectors... first check fuel pressure while running, should be around 34-42 psi while running with the vacuum plugged in, and should increase to 42psi while revving. Do a injector bleed down test with FP guage and see how long it takes to leak down. Ohm out the injectors... Also, clean your idle air control valve and passages, that's real important and made a huge difference in starting for me.
hope that helps. also, look on the internet for "resurrecting a sitting car", very helpful information... and a lot of preaching of how to store a car properly. I usually start mine once a day, and run it for 40 minutes around the "circuit" once a week.
you need a good working baseline, so make sure the basic stuff has been done--plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor button, vacuum lines, air filters, fuel filter, etc, pvc, etc. Then move on to hard parts starting with the injectors... first check fuel pressure while running, should be around 34-42 psi while running with the vacuum plugged in, and should increase to 42psi while revving. Do a injector bleed down test with FP guage and see how long it takes to leak down. Ohm out the injectors... Also, clean your idle air control valve and passages, that's real important and made a huge difference in starting for me.
hope that helps. also, look on the internet for "resurrecting a sitting car", very helpful information... and a lot of preaching of how to store a car properly. I usually start mine once a day, and run it for 40 minutes around the "circuit" once a week.
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