I am going to upgrade my powerplant very soon and would like to know what others think of my idea.

Vortec Shortblock approx 9.5/1 cr
ProComp 190 heads w/ 2.02/1.6's
GMPP camshaft specs:
222/230 duration@50 .509"/.528"lift 112LSA
Holley Stealth Ram w/52mmTB, 24#injectors, 255lph fuel pump
MAFS TPI comp W/PCMSforless custom calibration
Hooker 2055R's (1 5/8" primaries, 3" colector and Ypipe)
3" cat
this exhaust
http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/v...s/DSC_0331.jpg

Approx how much power should this make? Anything that should be changed? Added?

SDPC has a vortec tpi engine with a GMPP Hot Cam and they made 360HP400TQ with Vortec TPI intake, Edelbrock Runners, and 52mmTB w/1 7/8" headers on a dyno

Im hoping to get that much or more out of my combo so any help here would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Also in the not so near future id like to run an ATI blower w/6-10psi and a 75-100hp shot of n2o to keep it cool (hopefully ill have enough money to get all forged internals and reduce the CR to around 8.7/1 by then also, will this cam work with all that?
how much total HP??
i really need a desktop dyno lol

other vehicle specs:
Approx 3600LBS
TH700R4 3000 RPM stall
3.23 gears 26" tire
any guess on a 1/4mile et?
thanks for reading!

 

personally I think your setup will be healthy the way that it is. If I had to guess, I would say around the 350-370hp and 400-410tq.
I did a horsepower calc for my car using the comp cam selection program, and I got 340hp and 460tq at the flywheel. It is pretty accurate as I did another one with my drag time and they were identical. So I would have to say that is a low 13s ride. The HSR will lower the tq but up the hp, were the tpi will do the opposite.

 

so would it make sense not to go with the HSR and use a smaller cam with a factory type TPI?, prolly cost around the same anyway btw sounds like your car really hooks up for having street tires, no higher stall converter?

 

If you use the tpi, yes I would go with a little smaller cam. It all depends on a) what the car is being used for (street, street/strip or strip) and b) how much porting and what future mods you are going to do.

The reason that I got my car to do what it does it because it is mostly a street car that can corner and also do drags. So you want to be able to on the road and get a guy traffic light to traffic light. I dont see the point in the long mile runs that some guys do or saying that there car can go 200mph. I think it is not how fast you can go, but how fast you can get there.

I do not have a aftermarket convertor in the car, but it is also not one for the car. I got a convertor out of a 93 Blazer that had a lockup feature and put it in. It raised the stall a bit because it was smaller and had less fins in it. I think it went form 1500 to 1800. Not that much but it def helped. Was thinking of putting a 2200-2500 stall but then I would have to rev higher on the street when I take off.

 

gotcha, so torque converter from blazer/s10 will raise stall approx 3-500rpm... what years can these be had from ? my car is going to be a street strip car that leans more to the strip side becuase im not going to drive it much, we get like 5 months of winter here and i have 3 other vehicles to ride in plus a family to transport so streetability is kinda necessary but not a Nescessity lol i am going to try to keep the AIR and EGR as long as possible so i can pass PA inspection so if i want to take a short drive every once in a while in the summer, shes still tagged and insured

 

You can get a convertor from anything that has a 4l60, 700r4, or a 4l60e. But in order for the stall to go up, make sure it is a 4.3L engine. The reason being that a smaller v6 has a different bolt pattern when mating it to the flex plate and a v8 will not give you the same stall potential. To be honest you can go either way. it is really how much do you want to spend and what setup you like better.

HSR will put the powerband in a higher rpm TPI will make power lower. also you want to match parts so that they compliment eachother. So you dont want a cam with long duration for a tpi motor. This will push the powerband in the upper rpm range and a tpi intake restricts flow in high rpms. This will give a small window for the motor to be usefull. The other thing you want to do is if you go with a tpi setup, your rear gear should stay under a 3.45 as the torque will make up for the taller gear. the HSR I would use a 3.73 because it does not have as much tq as a tpi setup (with the same engine mods).

 

if your making 410 ft lbs of torque thats quicker than a low 13. Thats mid to upper 12's. I think your combo would make 360 horse and 370 ish torque and be in the low 13's

 

With the HSR that setup should be good for about 410-420hp. Which means if it hooks up high 12's at about 110mph.

If you run a fairly stock tpi, then I would also recommend a slightly smaller cam and you will end up in the 350-370hp range.

 

I am not sure if you were talking to me or not, but the reason that I am not going faster is more than likely because I do not have a higher stall and that I was running a street tire. So I really could not launch the car without spinning. The times that I didnt spin I did a massive burnout, got the tires hot and only launched at 1300.

 

so im wondering if i could find a compromise cam, that would be ok with the stock tpi then when i got the HSR it would really wake up, any suggestions, or just leave it stock till the hsr?

 

If you know that you are going to put an HSR on the car, then I would get all the parts and do it all at once.

 

I had good results using the Comp Cams 268XFI with modded TPI and HSR intakes.

Bill

 

wow that cam seems pretty radical but thats a good thing lol is there a hydro roller equivalent of that out there??

 

....The 268XFI is a hydraulic roller cam.

 

thats funny summit calls it a hydraulic flat tappet

 

Thats because there is a flat tappet and roller version of these cams, your better off going to comps website.

 

XFI268 HR-13.

Bill