Building a new TPI motor, is it worth the extra money to go Hydraulic Roller Cam, or just stick with a Hydraulic flat tappet. I have a 87+ block, but non of the OEM parts. These were my cam choices:

Hydraulic Flat Tappet:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-366-4/

Hydraulic Roller
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-305-8/
but then I will need:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-1000/
and this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-850-16/

 

Hydraulic Roller is the way to go. With some luck, the spider and retainers can be found in the classiefied's or JY.

Did comp cams suggest that cam for a 305? With what heads?

 

It's just a cam I chose for a street 355 TPI. I'm a big fan of the xe268 grind.

 

I don't know that an XE268 is going to be very computer-friendly.

 

read the first post please, i'm not putting an XE268 in this motor. I'm a fan of that grind and I have chosen two cams for TPI fuel injection based off of that grind from comp cams that is still computer compatible.

I'm trying to get some insight to find out if it is worth it to spend the extra $$$ on the parts I need to go hydraulic roller cam, or just go with a computer friendly hydraulic flat tappet cam.

 

If your block is machined for it, get the roller.

 

Im sure comp cam has a roller cam that will work even better. What price difference do you end up roller vs tapped?

 

Going roller would run me over $500 with cam, lifters and hardware kit.
Hydraulic flat tappet will run me about $200, for cam and lifters.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150121/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499225/
Spider kit 82$ +roller lifters 126$ + roller cam 270$ = 478$

Cam button 7$(make sure you can reuse your timing cover if not + timing cover $) + good flat tapped lifters 73$ + tapped cam 140$ = 220$

258$ difference, though im sure you can find a used "spider kit" for much less.

Good luck.

 

Roller. Bottom line is that you want less friction on all rotating or moving parts that are inside the engine. Now getting into the specs is a different story. If you go too big a cam, you'll have vacuum issues. It's the vacuum that our ECM's monitor (so I heard). If the ECM pick's up a different reading of the vacuum that is out of it's programmed setting, then the ECM will try to correct by making timing and fuel adjustments without knowing that there has been a modification to the cam. You can go big (as in the cam), but now you'll be spending more by visiting the DYNO shop to properly tune and burn a custom PROM chip.

 

The easiest way and cheapest way is the flat tappet setup.It will require more maintenance at first from break in.If your on a tight budget there is nothing wrong going this route.You can find a better and easier cam to tune with the ecm.It will also get you the power your after aswell. My 86 block isnt a roller setup but it can be converted but the extra cost is out of my budget to go full roller.Maybe next time.

 

Yup. Flat tappit is way cheaper and you can get a hell of a horse power gains depending on the setup you wish to accomplish. But remember, if you want a daily driver, flat,, but if you want the weekend warrior, roller with a 350 block. It'll all come down to how much are you willing to sacrifice (money wise). Either route will result in great benefits as long as you can afford it. But I'de invest into a roller system if I were in your shoes for future use.

 

By the way, TG Goose, nice Camaro. I like the 2 tone paint.

 

thanks for the ups on the camaro. I think I might just buck up and go the roller route, the block is already set for it, it will mean less wear on the valve-train over the life of the engine, might as well do it right the first time!

 

I agree. I went from flat to roller just for the little bit of extra power. When it comes down to a stop light race, every bit of power makes a difference.

 

Well not really if you have a roller block, other then the parts already mentioned earlier, you need to change lifters and add specific breack in oil.
Now if you really count every single $, the better fuel efficiency due to less friction will most certenly allow you to save $'s.
Then comes the wear, after 160k the roller set up will still be like new and can be reused or sold.

 

Thats what I did. Took back the Edlbrock flat tappet cam and reused my OEM roller system. Saved $160. Then just before I stabbed the 87 IROC-Z cam for a 350 block, I found a 1994 Z-28 roller cam (and bought it for $50) which is very similar to the 87 roller cam, except that the lift is a bit higher (Not to sure of specs off the top of my head but I believe its somewhere around a .450 lift-intake). Works like a charm. And plants me into my bucketseat.

 

Lol, Im running that exact same cam 450/460, 116 Lobe 203/208 duration, also came from a 94z 28 had around 70k miles on it.

 

Right on partner! I got my cam from a very good friend of mine. He's also a Thirdgen.org member here. You may of ran into him a few times. His member ID is Chevy8588. He was a GM mechanic. I knew there was other members with the setup like mine but I never heard from any of them. Well gotta keep studying for my test. Peace....