ok I've been reading up on this code 32 and I just want to make sure I'm heading down the right path before I start throwing parts at this thing..

My car, stock 1991 350 Auto TPI Speed Density, has a rough idle and doesn't drive properly because of this. Around town it drives as though it has a lumpy cam bucking and surging at slow speed, no SES or codes in town.

On the highway it does the same but it is not nearly as noticeable. Also during highway driving the SES light appears and stores code 32.

Now I've read if the code appears during city driving, replace the EGR valve... but if it appears on the highway replace the EGR temp sensor.

So is this the correct path to follow, replace the temp sensor? I've also read this part has been discontinued...?

Thanks for your replies.

 

I think I have this same problem too, and i also have a 32 trouble code stored, i would like to find out what it is too

 

How long has this been happening? Code 32 could be anything related to the EGR system, not necessarily a bad valve or solenoid, and explaining the possibilities means this could be a long post lol.

If you're getting the SES light only at sustained highway speeds, then: 1) the valve isn't opening, or 2) the valve might be opening, but the computer isn't recognizing it, possibly due to clogging in the EGR's intake manifold passages.

If the valve isn't opening, then: 1) the valve might be faulty/sticking, or 2) the valve might not be getting vacuum to open it, possibly due to: a) a faulty solenoid(or its electrical connection), or b) a cracked/leaking vacuum line from the solenoid to the valve(and this little thing is probably the problem).

I'd suggest beginning with the simplest thing: the vacuum line. Remove it completely and inspect it for holes, cracks or breaks. Leaving it connected won't give you good enough vantage points to check it thoroughly, seriously. And most of the time, this will be where you'll find the problem, so you've gotta be able to inspect it completely. If you find cracking, wrapping the line with black electrical tape will hold well enough until you can get a replacement line, most simply from a junkyard car.

If the vacuum line is positively good, then test the EGR valve(while the engine is idling) by pushing up on the underside of it(the diaphram). It'll require a fair amount of pressure to make it open(if it will open at all), and when you get it open, the engine should bog down slightly... not a lot, but enough that you notice it bogging down. And if it bogs, then your EGR's intake manifold passages probably are not clogged, leading you to the valve itself, or the soldenoid.

But when the valve is open, if there's positively no bogging of the engine, no change at all, then you might have a clog(partial or heavy) in the EGR's manifold port(s) preventing the system from recirculating the exhaust. However, unless your engine's exhaust has been heavy for a long time, then this probably isn't the case. But to check for clogs, you'd have to remove the valve and inspect those ports for deposit-buildup. This is also where top-end cleaning products like Seafoam or GM Top Engine Cleaner could helpout.

If the valve seemed TOO hard to open, it might've just been stuck and might now function properly again, or it might need replacing. But if you feel like the valve is ok, then now you're left with checking the solenoid's electrical connection and checking, or possibly replacing the solenoid.

There are some other remote things that could be causing the problem, but most-likely the problem lies within the areas I've described.

And when you get the problem solved, then the system could probably use some cleaning-out due to not having been operating properly, so I'd suggest running Seafoam or Top Engine Cleaner through it anyway.

I told you this would be long!

 

from what you describe i would be very suspicious of egr sticking open or opening when not commanded by solenoid.may just be stuck or poss. piece of carbon stuck in it.try a couple love taps with the magic hammer or removing vac hose from it and see if condition changes.

 

I hade the same issues. Crap idle, just ran like garbage. Also got the code 32 all the time. Installed a set of 22lb bosch III injectors and it runs like a champ. None of it had anything to do with the EGR code 32. I still to this day get the code once in a wile. Just a thought.

 

thanks for all the replies, I did not get any notice there has been activity on this thread??

any way I had the chance to get under the hood shortly after I posted this thread and found a small hard vacuum line broken which goes into the EGR solinoid. after repairing the line the ecm no longer give me a code or check engine light, however nothing has changed with how the car runs.

again yesterday I had a bit of time and started poking around to find a lot of questionable vacuum lines which are cracked and showing their age. I'll be purchasing a bunch of new hose and replace the lines hoping that will help.

I'll keep this thread updated with my repairs and results until I get it figured out...

 

2 years later you figure out all your EGR system deamons? You would be a god if you have solved the problems!

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...2-trouble.html

 

I knew about the N and the P Egr's
Thanks for replying back
Did you end up switching your N for P or vice versa?

 

I ended up programing a memcal and deleting the error code for user jbenge after he replaced the egr and egr solenoid.

 

so the OTC "TSB prom id manual" from 1988 tells this story; the PROM as initally used on our cars would set false codes, most notably a false 32! so ,component wise you could be golden and STILL get this and other codes .GM issued a updated PROM to fix this and other issues. now discontinued.but you may find a used one, if you like