ses light on when cold
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Car: 1989 gta-1995 formula
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3-45
ses light on when cold
my 89 gta 305 5 speed , tha ses light comes on when its started cold. If i run it for 5 minutes then shut off and restart it stays off. also having trouble getting car to pass e test but it runs great.
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Car: 1989 gta-1995 formula
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3-45
Re: ses light on when cold
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Milwaukee
Car: 92 Firebird, 77 Trans Am SE, 86 Z28
Engine: 5.7 HSR, T/A 6.6, empty
Transmission: T-5, TH350, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi, 3.23 posi, 3.23
Re: ses light on when cold
did you get the code off it when the light comes on? Thats going to help a lot.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,093
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From: Milwaukee
Car: 92 Firebird, 77 Trans Am SE, 86 Z28
Engine: 5.7 HSR, T/A 6.6, empty
Transmission: T-5, TH350, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi, 3.23 posi, 3.23
Re: ses light on when cold
it still helps a lot to have the actual code its popping up. If it was egr related and the stuff has been changed you could have another entirely unrelated code or the problem was misdiagniosed.
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Car: 1989 gta-1995 formula
Engine: 305 tpi
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Re: ses light on when cold
its going to get checked on monday again im just trying to narrow it down, ive been having this problem for a couple of years and nobody can figure it out. And i have to get it e tested this spring , it has a hard time passing for some reason. Which i cant underestand cause it runs great. did the coolant sensor didnt help ses light either.might try the intake manifold sensor,thanks
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Las Vegas
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Re: ses light on when cold
The vacuum lines are a critical part of the EGR system, and, I think, often the most overlooked part when there's an EGR problem. Your problem sounds backwards for a typical vacuum problem though, but knowing the lines are good is still important because the 'mechanical' testing procedures rely on vacuum. So when you changed the valve and solenoid, did you completely remove and thoroughly inspect the vacuum lines to the solenoid and valve?
Cracks/holes in the lines can be difficult to find if you don't remove the lines, because you can't see all the way around the circumference of them while they're installed. You need to be able to see the underside of them too, not just the top and sides, because if there's a leak, it will always be where you can't see it: Murphy's Law. It might even require some flexing of the lines for a small crack to reveal itself to you.
But if vacuum is good, no leaks, and the valve and soldenoid are good(you said they're new, so probably yeah), and if no shorts have been detected in any of the electrical connections(always possible, but not probable), then the EGR temperature switch could be bad. And this would make sense, based on your getting the SES light at start-up because that's when its failure would be apparent.
But if all else is good, then the last part of the EGR system that could be causing a problem are the EGR passages in the intake manifold. There could be some clogging developing. And here, too, the problem would most-likely appear at start-up. I kind of doubt this is the case(since your problem has been ongoing for a couple of years, the engine still runs great, and you haven't reported any EGR-related SES lights while driving the car), but if there has been some malfunctioning of the EGR system, then it's possible that some carbon build-up has developed, so a cleaning with GM Top Engine Cleaner or Seafoam wouldn't hurt anyway.
That's about it for the EGR-system: electrical shorts, vacuum lines, EGR valve, EGR soldenoid, EGR temperture switch, and intake passages. So if all of that checks out good, then the problem probably isn't EGR-related.
Cracks/holes in the lines can be difficult to find if you don't remove the lines, because you can't see all the way around the circumference of them while they're installed. You need to be able to see the underside of them too, not just the top and sides, because if there's a leak, it will always be where you can't see it: Murphy's Law. It might even require some flexing of the lines for a small crack to reveal itself to you.
But if vacuum is good, no leaks, and the valve and soldenoid are good(you said they're new, so probably yeah), and if no shorts have been detected in any of the electrical connections(always possible, but not probable), then the EGR temperature switch could be bad. And this would make sense, based on your getting the SES light at start-up because that's when its failure would be apparent.
But if all else is good, then the last part of the EGR system that could be causing a problem are the EGR passages in the intake manifold. There could be some clogging developing. And here, too, the problem would most-likely appear at start-up. I kind of doubt this is the case(since your problem has been ongoing for a couple of years, the engine still runs great, and you haven't reported any EGR-related SES lights while driving the car), but if there has been some malfunctioning of the EGR system, then it's possible that some carbon build-up has developed, so a cleaning with GM Top Engine Cleaner or Seafoam wouldn't hurt anyway.
That's about it for the EGR-system: electrical shorts, vacuum lines, EGR valve, EGR soldenoid, EGR temperture switch, and intake passages. So if all of that checks out good, then the problem probably isn't EGR-related.
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Thread Starter
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Car: 1989 gta-1995 formula
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3-45
Re: ses light on when cold
I checked and im getting a ground to the egr switch so i think its bad, i think i found another one to try, thanks
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Car: 88 IROC
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Re: ses light on when cold
Dude, flash the codes out of the ECM and list them. It's hard to respond to this without some actual data.
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Car: 1989 gta-1995 formula
Engine: 305 tpi
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Axle/Gears: 3-45
Re: ses light on when cold
so i changed the egr heat switch and it fixed problem,thanks. I've had other guys look at this for a couple years,
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